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289/302 or 5.0/351 firing order?
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Could it be aerodynamics? Maybe something is a bit loose or vibrating when it's hit with the air moving at that particular speed.
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Steve,
I am glad you lost 50 pounds. So, is the harmonic still there?
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351w firing order, but it had the same problem with a 302 using 15426378 firing order many years ago.
The harmonic feels like a bearing that is not happy somewhere, but every bearing on the car has been replaced multiple times. Spindles replaced. Everything.
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Would you describe the pace of the vibration/harmonic similar in pace to slowly rocking in a rocking chair?
I’m being serious....although my description sounds kinda funny.
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Maybe a little higher frequency than that.
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Nos681 wrote:
Would you describe the pace of the vibration/harmonic similar in pace to slowly rocking in a rocking chair?
I’m being serious....although my description sounds kinda funny.
Years ago I managed a large auto service center. One the simple pleasures of each day was asking people to replicate the sounds their vehicle was making. I wish I had videotaped it because some people were pretty funny. Nothing like grown adults making "vroom vroom", clunking and screeching noises all day long at the service desk.
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Steve I'm getting ready to install leaf springs, new shackles, and my 3.25 3rd member...
I also noticed I have a vibration at + 100mph ...
going to look at my T-5 tailshaft bearing as the issue ...
u-joints - wheel bearings - drive shaft was balanced on T-5 install all are good ..
Did you find out what was causing your issue ??
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I haven’t really driven the car during covid, so it is in the garage. I have replaced everything you mentioned. Plus major components multiple times.
If mine did not cause issues until 100mph, it would not be a big deal, but it comes in right at cruise speed.
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MS wrote:
I haven’t really driven the car during covid, so it is in the garage.
You need to change this situation Steve... I get withdrawals when I don't drive mine...
Regarding the vibration... Is there a way to get the car off the ground, run it at the speed where the vibration comes in and somehow see what's happening from the underside? Maybe park the car over a pit and lift the rear end off the ground? Obviously the car would need to be secured and safe whilst this was done. Maybe a shop could do something like this?
Last edited by Toploader (1/29/2021 9:04 PM)
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I have considered that. Been too busy building new shop to worry about it.
Not really wild about running my car, jacked up in the air, at 75 mph!
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MS wrote:
I have considered that. Been too busy building new shop to worry about it.
Not really wild about running my car, jacked up in the air, at 75 mph!
I did that one wheel-at-a-time...open diff...and proved that the vib was in the right side of the 8". I had tripple checked the wheel, tire, axle, and even balanced the brake drum. Had to be something to do with the housing, maybe bent. Put in the 8.8 and no more vib.
I did have the car pointing OUT of the garage at the time.
BB1
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MS wrote:
Not really wild about running my car, jacked up in the air, at 75 mph!
Whats the prob???........EJ Potter (the Michigan Madman did it all the time!)
6sally6
Last edited by 6sally6 (2/01/2021 6:53 PM)
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You could build a thing kinda like a "line lock", Steve. Something that would drop the hinny at about 6000 rpm. Then just hang on. That'd be real hit a the Bash.
BB1
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Maybe try to rotate the driveshaft mounting 180 degrees, I know its all been replaced but on new cars I always try to get mark where the driveshaft came out and install it back in its same place. Can't hurt to try.
I've also had issue with bad tires on the wife's old 06 mustang. Bought a cheap set of tires and they never could get them balanced right.
I've rebuilt both front and rear axles in my truck and I developed a slight vibration around 40 and goes away after I hit 50 mph. This is with the 4.10 gears and I had noticed it but very slightly when I installed 3.73 gears but it became more noticeable with the 4.10 gears. I'm sure this is all due to the increased driveshaft speed from the 4.10 gears. Not sure if that helps you or not.
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MS wrote:
Not really wild about running my car, jacked up in the air, at 75 mph!
Yeah, I hear you, but I am not sure how else you can do it though? In my opinion, you would need to do it over a pit and have a few buddies around. Someone would need to be in the car the whole time as well. Somehow you would need to secure the car as an extra precaution.
Saying all that... If it were me, I would search around for a shop that could check it out and diagnose. Sometimes it's just easier and safer to pay someone who has all the right equipment for the job.
Last edited by Toploader (2/02/2021 7:05 AM)
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I know that this is a link to a Mopar forum, but it seems to have a similar discussion...
It would be interesting to know if it's drive shaft and angles related...
Last edited by Toploader (2/02/2021 7:07 AM)
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Most successful tool I have used to chase a vibration is my little camera that transmits to my phone. I have mounted it all over and under cars so I can watch the recorded (not while driving) video. I was amazed at how much a rear axle can bounce around with a little excitation. the scarriest one was watching the front suspension during hard corners. What looks to be built really solid is rarely that way!!
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The red car had what I called a wave vibe only at highway speeds. I could feel and hear it. It was there when it had the FMX and still after change to the toploader. They both used the same driveshaft. I prefer to run the joint angles about straight and the same on each end, plus and minus. The shaft runout on both ends was acceptable by the book. When I added the GV overdrive, I needed to shorten the driveline. Being cheap as I am I was just going to cut the original and notice it was a bit bent in the middle. I made a new one and the wave was gone.
Simple as that.
Last edited by red351 (2/02/2021 8:41 AM)
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red351 wrote:
The shaft runout on both ends was acceptable by the book. When I added the GV overdrive, I needed to shorten the driveline. Being cheap as I am I was just going to cut the original and notice it was a bit bent in the middle. I made a new one and the wave was gone.
Simple as that.
When I was installing an aluminum Explorer driveshaft I not only checked the ends, but also the center run out, which was within spec. I still had the same wave vibe you describe, which occurred with both the FMX and AOD. Gonna take the 69 out on the highway today and check for vibes, but I'm not too optimistic.
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I'm with the "put it on jack stands and run it up through the gears crowd!"
I have done it MANNNY-MANNNY times with zero issues.
What could go worng? (famous-last-words maybe)
Rear tires off the ground on a solid level spot........front tires chocked...... gently ease thru the gears a few times until your comfy.
Try it at 'vibration speed' see if its there. ...Speed Above/below vibe speed......Vibe speed in all 5 gears....
clutch in/out... check rear tire trueness.....
6sal6
PS.....you haven't lived until your run it thru the gears with the headers open!!!(maybe kick in the secondaries in a couple of gears).....
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Bob I found the bent laying a couple 4' levels along it when the shaft was still long enough. They both verified it.
It wasn't much.
Last edited by red351 (2/03/2021 8:38 AM)
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The problem I have with running a car at 75 on jack stands for a vibration issue is it vibrating off the jack stands. I don't need any new doors in the house. How would you secure a car to keep it in place if it come of the stands? I was once told the attachment point for a safety harness should be able to support a truck....that's for the average size person. What does it take for a 3500 pound car in motion?
Chassis dyno??
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Bolted to Floor wrote:
The problem I have with running a car at 75 on jack stands for a vibration issue is it vibrating off the jack stands. I don't need any new doors in the house. How would you secure a car to keep it in place if it come of the stands? I was once told the attachment point for a safety harness should be able to support a truck....that's for the average size person. What does it take for a 3500 pound car in motion?
Chassis dyno??
The good part of that is the car is secured stationary, not in motion like your body is when driving 60 mph. So there is no moving body to try and stop. The car would have to accelerate from a static position before it needed to be stopped.
Mythbusters did an episode about driving a car along the highway at 70 mph, then driving it up a ramp into a truck also going 70 mph. The car simply drove up the ramp and was able to easily stop once on the ramps.
With the car in the air, the only dynamics are the flywheel effect of the rotating wheels. Arresting the car’s forward travel won’t take near as much force as if the car were actually moving. NO, I do not care to test this theory!
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I don’t blame you. Testing the could get real expensive if reality doesn’t match.
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