Washer function:  The switch I have seems to have no provision for the washer motor.  So, I added a momentary push button in the cluster just above the wiper switch.  It's not TOO ugly and will work just fine.  Otherwise the late seventies wipers with the intermittent module is the way to go.  
True:  I'm not sure the simple addition of the module will work with the 65 wiper motor.  I installed the late (67 +) motor also since my 66 motor had given up on parking correctly.  You may want to make sure.  Incidently, the later motor install is NOT a drop in...takes a bit of re-engineering.

BB1

Last edited by Bullet Bob (12/13/2020 10:15 AM)

very clean Bob, but no room for my tunes. I will work on this for a while more  thanks for the pic
 

You get the box, ABS i think when you buy a Vintage Air system. But I believe bob has plans on how to build one that is better.

Bob, have you thought on how you will be routing the wires in? It seams to me that when I did my Ron francis one back 20 years ago in my C10 behind the seat, I had so many wires i didn't realize how many there actually were. I wouldnt need all the relays I have cause I dont have thouse extras. Glad I labled them, I dont even know what there all for now, but still it seams to be a lot of wires.

Last edited by Cab4word67 (12/20/2020 12:27 PM)

Ive made some progress I was able to finish up my engine harness. engine bay harness its a customized 1964 falcon harness. I used the two extra pins that usually go to the brake light switch, and used a SAE two pin plug and used them to feed my electric choke and my 3G alternator it even uses the correct color Green/ Red stripe for the Alternator. I have the correct corresponding firewall to underdash connector.  For my exterior light feed I have a stock 65 mustang firewall connector. For the exterior light connector I have customized falcon connector. I has new 18awg for turn signals 14awg  for Horn, HBEAM ,LBeam. I have a tyco heavy duty relay under my dash powering acc. Should I simply not worrry about the exterior #37 wire. I can simply eliminate it right now on the exterior portion of the headlight connector. I was thinking of just hooking up the interior underdash #37 Black/yellow to my relay... or should I rewire that pin on my exterior connector and just have it for extra?

The new firewall connector for the new wires I used 14 awg except on the green/black on that  I used 14 awg, and 18 awg for the dash indicator light feed. 

Curious which way would be better way to wire the horn relay for the 1965 mustang coupe. I do realize in 1965 Ford Mustangs didn't use a relay to operate the horn. I however would like to add one in my new under dash wiring harness to make the horn louder. I currently have my horn wired as follows: old 461 yellow green to 86. 85 to battery ground. 30 to battery positive black yellow 87. 461 new 14awg to horn firewall connector. Should work right?

I came accross this post. The question I have is if if the below mentioned would be a more ideal way to wire the horn relay?
  The yellow wire at the HEADLAMP switch. This is the original feed wire to the horn circuit. I designed the circuit for simplicity's sake... it's easy to snip the wire at the headlight plug, install a ring terminal on the end, and attach it to a ground under the dash. From there, simply locate your horn wire in the engine compartment, pick a location to mount your relay (near the voltage regulator on the core support would be handy), snip the wire and attach each end to your relay. From there it's just running ONE new wire, with circuit protection, back to the battery/solenoid, etc.

The reason I designed it that way and not leaving the yellow wire connected at the headlight switch and grounding pin 86 instead was to eliminate the chances that a short circuit in the horn switch/steering column would release the electrical genie and his magic smoke should it not be "dead" enough to trip the 15a breaker in the headlight switch (which would also end up killing your tail lights and instrument cluster lights, too) but any short would simply start the horn blowing.

 

Over all except for the aftermarket constant voltage unit, I am really happy with how my gauge harness came out.  I was able find all the terminals and contacts to fabricate a Entirely NEW wiring harness. 

Last edited by True74yamaha (2/23/2021 1:25 AM)

Nice job, that is the one item I didn't plan on doing as I installed the new fuse panel.  I did scope it all out, and as it is something I can do w/o having to get under the dash again, is a "potential" for the future.
Will you be including a multi-pin connector so you can simply plug/unplug the panel if needed?

BobE wrote:

Nice job, that is the one item I didn't plan on doing as I installed the new fuse panel.  I did scope it all out, and as it is something I can do w/o having to get under the dash again, is a "potential" for the future.
Will you be including a multi-pin connector so you can simply plug/unplug the panel if needed?

Yes I plan on installing a multi pin connector on my gauge feed harness. Im debating adding a led strip around the perimeter of the cluster housing to give some more back light. I wanted to use all LEDs for all my cluster lights. Thanks again Bullett BoB for helping me out with the relay wiring. 

Last edited by True74yamaha (2/24/2021 11:50 PM)

True74yamaha wrote:

BobE wrote:

Nice job, that is the one item I didn't plan on doing as I installed the new fuse panel.  I did scope it all out, and as it is something I can do w/o having to get under the dash again, is a "potential" for the future.
Will you be including a multi-pin connector so you can simply plug/unplug the panel if needed?

Yes I plan on installing a multi pin connector on my gauge feed harness. Im debating adding a led strip around the perimeter of the cluster housing to give some more back light. I wanted to use all LEDs for all my cluster lights. Thanks again Bullett BoB for helping me out with the relay wiring. 

FYI - I recently installed LED dash lights (1895s) I got from Super Bright LEDs, model # BA9S-GHP5 in my 66 dash panel and am very happy with how much brighter they are.  I had previously installed LED dash lights several years ago and was never pleased with the brightness.
Somewhere along the way, I salvaged several plastic bulb sockets (for 1895 bulbs) from some Ford, the LEDs bulbs fit much better in these sockets then the OEM metal ones.  The issue is that the LED replacement bulb's locking pins diameter (across the bulb) are a slightly smaller then the OEM 1895 bulbs.  You can try to squeeze the metal socket where the pins insert into in order to reduce this diameter with pliers.  The best price I found for replacement plastic sockets is Haywire & Co. at $6.95 ea.
 

A suggestion that I should have made earlier:
Back in '11 I had occasion to pull the cluster on Glen 1965 5.0 due to a taillight problem.  I discovered that he had extended his cluster wiring to allow the cluster to be removed and set on top of the dash, thus allowing one to work in the hole without having to disconnect all the wiring.  Great idea!
So when I built the new harness for the Heap back in '15 I did as you are doing and built a separate cluster harness extra long and connected it to the main under dash harness with a 16 pin Delphi connector...best of both worlds.

'Nuther late suggestion:  If you use the solid state, adjustable CVR's as I have previously suggested, you can mount one or more of them to a small plastic panel that is secured to the bottom edge of the dash.  That way you can "dial in" your instrument voltage without having to pull the cluster.  With stock instruments I recommend using three of those solid state CVR's.  By using one for each gauge...Temp, Oil, and Fuel...you can custom tune the voltage for each gauge to read where you want it a "normal" running.  The fuel gauge can be tuned using my "Gas Gauge Gage" instructions which I think you have.


 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (2/28/2021 7:19 AM)