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I always hated it too, Bob. Except I knew I was doing something that was going to make me very happy in the end. Hang in...this, as you already know, is one of those "ends justify the means" situations.
I'm very much looking forward to seeing the finished product one day.
BB1
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Very rewarding work. Hang in there.
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Thanks and yes it will be rewarding once I finish it. I don’t have the drive like I did a few years back. I refuse to kill myself after working all day. Work is getting worse each week. The cases just keep piling on. Another 12 hour day and I’m scheduled for 8 he days. I originally thought I would have the project painted in less than two years. Starting on the third year now and still no paint. But last year was a tough year for me.
I did order a rear valance and some hardware last night from NPD. Once I get the fiberglass parts and get them mounted I can really get a good look at it. I’m sure I’ll get a little fire going again.
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Hang in there, lots of peaks and valleys. Mine was down for 17 years, 2 divorces, 5 moves and 3 jobs.
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RTM wrote:
Thanks and yes it will be rewarding once I finish it. I don’t have the drive like I did a few years back. I refuse to kill myself after working all day. Work is getting worse each week. The cases just keep piling on. Another 12 hour day and I’m scheduled for 8 he days. I originally thought I would have the project painted in less than two years. Starting on the third year now and still no paint. But last year was a tough year for me.
I did order a rear valance and some hardware last night from NPD. Once I get the fiberglass parts and get them mounted I can really get a good look at it. I’m sure I’ll get a little fire going again.
I have a way to get the new rear valance to fit. Don’t sand it until you test fit it! It may require s little tweaking along the top flange to make it so the bottom corners fit correctly.
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MS wrote:
I have a way to get the new rear valance to fit. Don’t sand it until you test fit it! It may require s little tweaking along the top flange to make it so the bottom corners fit correctly.
My paint guy was amazed when I showed him your rear valance tweaking method, Steve.
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As my kindergarten teacher used to say, secrets don't make friends!
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I wish I had a valance to tweak on. Pictures make it much easier to explain. I have seen people weld pieces on to make them work. No such effort is required. I will make a post later with some line drawings to help explain the procedure.
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MS wrote:
I wish I had a valance to tweak on. Pictures make it much easier to explain. I have seen people weld pieces on to make them work. No such effort is required. I will make a post later with some line drawings to help explain the procedure.
Stop by the house the next time you come through. I've got two you can have.
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MS I will post pics of how it fits after it arrives and I’m not working late. 12.5 hours today.
When I installed my quarter panels they were fitted to the original valance. It’s not in the best shape and I bought the rear valance with no backup lights or exhaust holes. It also suppose to fit better than other aftermarket valances.
My last build I did have to add metal to get the valance to fit.
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What kinda primer did you use under your filler? I see some areas where its black? Did you leave the black primer on those panels before body work?
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True74yamaha wrote:
What kinda primer did you use under your filler? I see some areas where its black? Did you leave the black primer on those panels before body work?
No it was all sanded down to pretty much bare steel. The fenders were blasted and epoxy primed so I ok with filler over it but everything is sanded with 80 grit before applying any filler. The doors, roof and quarter panels were replacement panels and I did find spots of rust under that primer. I think what you may be seeing is the bare steel showing through and it looks darker like primer but it’s not.
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Chaplin wrote:
As my kindergarten teacher used to say, secrets don't make friends!
I made a new post on how to make a Mustang rear valance fit
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Thanks!
I saw it. Good info.
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