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On my 1965 ive been debating cutting my floor and body working my frame rails. The PO jacked on the frame rail and made a mess on the drivers side. I could either cut my floor or remove and replace the fame rail but really I hate to cut out the frame rail. I really think it would look neat under my car to do it semi concourse its a little different as my car is a SJ 1965 C-code Coupe its kinda different as most all the SJ cars were red Oxide chassis mine is factory black slop coat over black primer. I plan on duplicating all of my factory markings on everything mine has a tone of them left prettty cool. Do alot of you guys have markings on the engine compartment on the fender on the dent on the shock tower on a 65-66 or a big circle with an x in the middle, my car also has a big circle with a bold check mark through it on the drivers side fender by the washer bag.
I was fortunate to be a 1 in 4 that has drive shaft stencil markings so I will add those to my drive shaft along with the three stripes I found on the tail of my drive shaft, there was also green on the tail shaft. Will my stock drive shaft work with the Aod Transmission swap or will I need a new drive shaft?
Last edited by True74yamaha (3/02/2021 11:26 PM)
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Its going to be hard to straighten those frame rails out, even if you open the floor. The metal is thick and there's not much room to swing a hammer. You can move the crushed area downward, but the sides will likely require some attention too and this is basically impossible. I can tell you that stud style pullers don't work on frame rails. The metal is just too heavy to move that way.
I'd have to see them to say for sure what I'd do. I had a lot of stuff like that on my '89 GT. I fixed what I could without cutting anything apart. I built some special pullers for a slide hammer to straighten out the rear torque boxes. It looks a lot better than it did, but its not perfect. I find a fresh coat of paint/undercoat, etc. makes it all look a lot better because its clean.
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It may be just as much work if you just replaced the short section of the frame as it would be peeling the floor open. But a new frame section would look much better and be a cleaner repair.
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If you elect to replace only a section of the frame rail make sure you use some fish plates inside the rail. Go at least 6" past the cut each way and rosette/plug weld the fish plates to the existing rail and new section in 4-5 spots per each side of the cut. Fish plates should be the same thickness as the frame rail.
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Frame rails are cheap and easy to replace. I doubt yours can be suitably repaired. My car had the same issues.
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Depending how bad and where it is. I fix the dents in the 67 by making a box tubing piece that would fit snugly inside. I opened the ends up and forced it down through and heated where needed at the same time. It gives something to hammer against from topside down and the sides in. It's a lot of work and beer, but it also became part of the frame connectors later.
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