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A month or two ago I messed around with the front end alignment and used my tools to do what I thought was a fair job. Driving it I knew that I didn't have the toe set right and after several tries I didn't seem able to get it set right. So I ended up taking it to the local shop (they are really good with the old cars - they do all the alignment work for the local Mustang restoration shop). My caster and camber were right where they were supposed to be and the toe was, as I expected, wrong.
I think that the toe issue I'm having is due to my homebrew tool so I'll need to spend some time looking at that and maybe doing some testing with the car as it is to see if I can duplicate the shop's results with my tools. Sorta reverse engineering used as a learning tool.
I used the Longacre digital caster-camber guage to get the caster and camber set. I have one of those quickset adapter things that sorta clamps to the rim but threw it away when I found that I could never get repeatable readings when using it. Instead I used the gauge directly on the rim, making sure it was plumb when I took the reading.
Hope that maybe this helps someone.
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I’ve only ever used a tape measure to set the toe.
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RTM wrote:
I’ve only ever used a tape measure to set the toe.
Dat-swat eye always heareded......
Tape measure across the back of the tires and across the front subtract 1/8".
For 1/8" toe-in.
I could be worng...I was once.
(I thought I was worng butt-eye wasn't!)
6s6
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RTM wrote:
I’ve only ever used a tape measure to set the toe.
Yup. Center the steering box and confirm both steering rods are equal, then measure toe.
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I find there's two parts to getting toe correct: centering the centerlink and setting toe. Start with the tie rods the same length. That centers the centerlink. Then adjust each side an equal number of turns until you arrive at your desired tow setting based on measurements with a tape. I typically set a performance car at 1/16" toe in per side, so 1/8" wider in the rear than in the front on the tape. If the steering wheel is off center after all of that pull it and recenter it. After many decades some well meaning, but ignorant person trying to align the car has often moved the wheel from true center. I've used this method for everything from my Mustang to my F250 and its never failed.
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My bad. I should have explained better.
I'm using an inexpensive leveling laser on each wheel. The lasers magnetically attach to a bracket that is screwed onto a wheel stud, then shine down on the tape measures. On the left side I set the tape measure so that the laser is across the same "zero point" on both tape measures. Then I read where the right laser crosses the tape measures on the right side to get my toe numbers.
A part of the tool is a short length of allthread. I am thinking that maybe the allthread is bent a little or that something else is not right. I dunno. I need to work on it and do some investigating to find out.
Or maybe I've just complicated it to the point where there's no hope of ever getting it right this way. I dunno.
Thanks for the suggestions though :-)
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I did it that way once using angle iron and blocks to get above the bulge in the tires. The angle iron was perfectly straight, but it still did not yield great results. This led me to discover the method I now use.
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TKO- what is the secret sauce to your method?
On anything that has enough clearance to use a tape measure or folding rule (4x4) I scribe the front tires. When I lift up the front end to place the tires or turning plates I set up a block with an awl that is very rigid. Then give the wheel a spin (slowly) and scribe a line around the circumference of the tire. Do that to both tires and measure from scribe mark to scribe mark on the front of the drivers tire to the front of the passenger tire. Repeat for the back side of the tires. Scribing the tire takes the runout out of the picture.
As for how to do it on the Mustang I don’t have a rock solid home brew method.
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The secret is starting with equal length tie rods. Then just measure on the tires from the same spot on a tread block front and back as high up as you can. Then adjust tie rods equally until you hit your target measurements. This method works for anything. I've used it on my WRX which has rack and pinion steering, and my F250 which uses a link between the knuckles to set toe.
This isn't looking to set thrust angle, which is different. I think some methods I've read about were over complicating toe by incorporating thrust angle into it.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
The secret is starting with equal length tie rods. Then just measure on the tires from the same spot on a tread block front and back as high up as you can. Then adjust tie rods equally until you hit your target measurements. This method works for anything. I've used it on my WRX which has rack and pinion steering, and my F250 which uses a link between the knuckles to set toe.
This isn't looking to set thrust angle, which is different. I think some methods I've read about were over complicating toe by incorporating thrust angle into it.
He ain't lying.
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