Motor mounts will be fine.  You need a FRONT sump pan and the proper oil pick up.  You also need to change the  front timing cover or modify the one you have for a front dipstick...side dipstick won't work with the front sump pan.  The Fox exhaust system will not work so you'll need headers that fit or HIPO manifolds.
The rear mount for the AOD needs to be a couple of inches further to the rear.  A mount to accomplish this is probably available on the aftermarket or you can make one if you are so inclined.  I've made two...not terribly difficult.
If you keep the HO single serpentine front dress you'll need a radiator with lower hose on the left.  I would also recommend going to a 20" radiator at least.  You can trim the core support and go to a 24" if you want.  I have a 20" aluminum and our car runs at the 195 degree 'stat under just about all conditions.
You need a high pressure fuel pump either in the tank or external.  There are a few extra tank systems out there or commercial conversion tanks with submerged pumps.  I've been running a Walbro pump externally, just in front of the tank, for over 30k miles with no problem.  Regardless of how you go with the pump you need to double the fuel plumbing.  I used the stock fuel line for the return and made a mirror image line on the right side for supply.  The system runs right near 40 psi so you need to do the source line RIGHT!  I used all steel line or short sections of nylon for flex.  The Ford girdle fittings work fine in the engine bay and the duck-bill fittings work great at the filter...you must run a filter and the standard late Ford type works well just after the pump.
If you do keep the stock fuel tank...I have a 22gal from a 71-73 Mustang...you will need to make some provision to vent it.  This is a "circulating" fuel system with the pressure regulator on the fuel rail.  Fuel returning to the tank get warmed up at the engine and will, on a long trip, raise the temperature of the fuel in the tank quite a bit.  The stock 65 gas cap is vented to allow air IN...but not OUT.  At least that's how the one on my 66 works.  After driving the car from western Colorado to Glaicer and back I discovered that I had like 2" less depth in the trunk.  Nuff said!  I ran my vent forward...more plumbing...to an 89 Ford canister mounted behind the right front wheel.  Then I enabled Canister Purge.   Works great.
Well, that should get you started.  We can talk about electrics next time...or someone else will chime in.
Lots of info on the Web.  Lots of differing opinions and there are a number of folks running EFI on here who will be happy  to tell you what has, or has not, worked for them.

BB1

Last edited by Bullet Bob (5/03/2021 10:04 PM)

Nos681 wrote:

BB...I thought you had a 1970 22 gallon tank?

I had a 20 which swelled up like a beach ball.  Now I have a 22...thought they  were from the 71+.

Be careful with the fuel pickup.  I've bought them for 16, 20, &22 gal tanks and they all were identical.   The wrappings indicated the proper pickup for the tank.  Different tanks, same pickup.  Size of a 16 gal tank.  I've tried and tried to make an adjustment to no avail.  I think someone here has given us a way to adjust the pickup.  Don't remember who.

Right now with a 20 gal tank, at 1/4 full a fill-up takes 12 gal indicating a 16 gal tank.

MPG? What's that?! Actually, my setup differs from yours in that I have a carb vs EFI. So, I don't know, nor care, what my gas mileage is.

On your timing cover, I'd first consider just drilling a hole for the dipstick tube and call it good. Ain't difficult. Google that procedure, there's good info out there on it.


Also, when you do that, you'll
need to drill a hole thru your alternator bracket for the dipstick to pass through.

Back in the day when this forum was really high tech, I posted pics showing this. Those days and pics are now gone.

Be glad to send you some pics of my setup....send me a private message with your email address.

Last edited by josh-kebob (5/04/2021 5:30 PM)

I believe the pro comps are made in chiner...some feedback hasn't been good. But as always, do some research.

Remove the "tab" from the dipstick tube. It has two small spot welds so it removes easily.

The hole you drilled in the alt bracket keeps the tube supported.

When I have time, I'll remove my alt and take a picture for you.

autojames wrote:

are there any differences between AOD and AODE?

Lots!  Besides internal improvements, the AOD is all mechanical, like all pre-electronic transmissions.  The AODE is  controlled electronically, which means you need some sort of computer to tell it when to shift.
Also, the the AOD  performs TC lockup by using a double input shaft which is weak in high HP situations.  The AODE had a clutch in the TC for lockup that is controlled by the electronic controller.
And if you are going AODE you may as well go to the 4R70W which is the last version of the AODE and has all the improvements plus lower first and second gears hence the "W" for wide ratio.