Yep, those kids eat up a lot of time.  Well worth it though.  Glad to hear at least you're making some progress.

What kind of heads do you have or want?

I was able to file fit the rings on Saturday.  Got stuck at work until 5:45 tonight so I was not able to call a machine shop yet for the heads.  I did order a timing chain set and a precision blue printed oil pump.  Just need to clean and paint the timing cover.  Ill paint it when I paint the oil pan.  Maybe by next weekend I can put the bottom end together.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Sounds like you're making some headway.  Glad to hear it.

Something forward is better than backwards which started when I took the engine apart.  lol

Tomorrow it looks like I may get out early so I can call a few shops to see if they can replace the guides.  I also have some online training modules to complete as I applied for a new job with Medtronic.  This job should free up some time for me.

On those rod bolts, I'm assuming they are ARP or other aftermarket fasteners (ARP bolts have "ARP" on the heads).  You'll need to know exactly what the are, as there are a lot of options even just with ARP.  Then be mindful of what lube you use, as it varies the torque required.  I won't use anything other than ARP moly lube with their hardware. 

The pistons on the table were from the disassemble of the original block.

Bearing Bob wrote:

Nice stuff. Those surely don't look like my fingers when I'm working on my car. I think the 8740 number is the steel material number of the bolt.

You are correct sir.  You can then use the size of the bolts and look up the torque (thread diameter and length).  When in doubt you can call ARP.  Their customer service department is awesome in my experience. 

LOng story and it has been a pain.  The shop I dropped my heads off at just happened to be selling the place at the same time and packed up and left people hanging.  Good thing I did not put any money down and my parts are safe.

The shop that has the heads tried to sell me a set of 185 Liberty Heads because the pro comps have bad guides and suggested I buy .100 longer valves.  After I loated the guides he said would be hard to locate he quoted me $1032 to redo my heads.  I have located a set of brand new Victor Jr heads for $2000.  I'm leaning towards the new heads.

6sally6 wrote:

This the only automotive machine shop near ya?
Seems a lot of them are throwing in the proverbial 'shop-towel'?!

Wonder why...they don't have time or skill to do the work you want but....seem to have plenty of time to sell you some heads that are "better/cheap" they just happen to have.
6sal6

This shop was actually recommened to me by a friend who has a transmission shop.  It was the next shop I was going to and the heads just happened to end up there anyways.

But I did get the feeling like the shop was pushing the newer Viking heads (think that was the name) and maybe they make more on the new heads because they were under the price of rebuilding my heads.  The sad part is I already have new springs, seals and shims to rebuild my heads so those parts are not even part of the qoute.

The Edelbrock Vixtor JR heads are for sale a few hours North of me for just below retail.  Think I will buy them and just have them shipped to me.  

TKOPerformance wrote:

Honestly I'd just buy the Edelbrocks.  Pro Comp heads are nothing special, American assembled Chinese junk.  Edelbrocks are made in the USA.  I have a set on my 383 Chevy that have been on three different engines with nothing more than new seals and springs to match the cams. 

 

Pro comps are known for cheap components and these heads have been on a running engine that ran long enough to wear out the guides.  Not arguing for or against but thought it would be helpful information for some one else. 

I know this is one of those questions that can’t really be answered but I do need a little persuasion. 

My gut tells me to buy the Edelbrock heads.  One I think they will make a bit more power and they are brand new.  Just an extra $1000 for all of that.  Lol

Raymond_B wrote:

RTM wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Honestly I'd just buy the Edelbrocks.  Pro Comp heads are nothing special, American assembled Chinese junk.  Edelbrocks are made in the USA.  I have a set on my 383 Chevy that have been on three different engines with nothing more than new seals and springs to match the cams. 

 

Pro comps are known for cheap components and these heads have been on a running engine that ran long enough to wear out the guides. Not arguing for or against but thought it would be helpful information for some one else.

I know this is one of those questions that can’t really be answered but I do need a little persuasion.

My gut tells me to buy the Edelbrock heads. One I think they will make a bit more power and they are brand new. Just an extra $1000 for all of that. Lol

I wonder how much you could recoup after selling the old heads? Not saying you shouldn't replace the parts or doubting your ability, but do you have all the tools to do so?
 

I could replace the guides but would have to have some one else do the valves and seats.  Setting the spring height is easy.  I was a machins, tool and die maker and a CNC programmer for years.  I still have a lot of my old tools. 

I almost bought the tools to cut the valve seats a while back.  The tool set was for sale local to me on facebook.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Ah yes, another $1,000, but it may be the best money you spend on the engine.  I'd view it as a $1,000 insurance policy that never expires.  Something goes wonky in one of those Pro Comp heads and it drops something into one of the cylinders that $1,000 is going to seem like a bargain. 

For the record the only thing left in the pro comp heads that are pro comp parts are the hardened seats.

But I agree the new victor jr heads would provide a good sense of sercurity.