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I have a pretty strong back ground in maching so I am not afraid to takle this job. If you read my other post you will see my troubles I have had with local shops.
They are 210 Pro Comp heads and they take an over size OD guide which I have located for $5 each. In my other post I think I may buy the new heads I found local and would like to repair or do as much s the repair on the used heads as I can.
The pro comps were never built with spring cups. I can istall and shim the new valves I have for those heads and run them like they had been previuosly built. Of course after new guides and a valve job. The head surface where the springs sit looks brand new and I would only use the heads on a low budget low rpm build if I was to use them. My thinking is they ran that way for a long time why not put them back togther that way. Thought?
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"were never built with spring cups"??!
I don't mean to show my ignorance but... what keeps the spring in place when all is assembled?
6sally6
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6sally6 wrote:
"were never built with spring cups"??!
I don't mean to show my ignorance but... what keeps the spring in place when all is assembled?
6sally6
Really no different than an iron factory head. But an iron head can support the spring where the spring ositting on aluminum would not last long but my heads had shims under the springs so the head surface was protected but it's not the best way to go about it. Could be why the guides wore out but Pro Comp is known for having soft guides that wear.
I could buy a spring retainer that has an offset to it that may allow me to install the bottom spring retainer and still get the correct installed spring height.
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I did 2 airplane cylinders with aluminum heads a very long time ago and didn't like it. When punching out the guides, a lot of metal came with them even though they were heated up pretty good. They lasted till the overhaul but too much to worry about.
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When I did British bikes I drilled most of the material from the valve guides leaving only a thin amount to press out, less chance of galling the soft aluminum heads.
I heated the heads in an oven and deep froze the guides to make pressing them in easier.
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Rudi wrote:
When I did British bikes I drilled most of the material from the valve guides leaving only a thin amount to press out, less chance of galling the soft aluminum heads.
I heated the heads in an oven and deep froze the guides to make pressing them in easier.
Good idea.
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