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When I reinstalled the booster on my 69, I noticed the master cylinder leans toward the engine. After investigating, the rebuilder of the booster did not get the front and back halves clocked correctly. So; I ordered a new booster. I cannot stand having something not lined up properly. I figured if I am putting it back together, I might as well get it right.
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I hate that job.🤬
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At least ya don't have'ta worry bout stacks of washers now.
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Yup. My daddy told me that "anything worth doing, is worth doing right". Or " if ya gotta do it, you might as well do it right" - I can't remember exactly which one...having a senior moment. Ya gotta fix it. If you don't it'll keep you up at night til you do. Sorry you have to install it twice.
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Just a question for my own knowledge. Why can't you re-clock it yourself?
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Chaplin wrote:
Just a question for my own knowledge. Why can't you re-clock it yourself?
Unlike some of the originals it seems Steves has the assembly joint of the two shells crimped instead of a removable band.
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Gotcha, I see it now. Tnx. Although it almost looks like it wouldn't be too difficult to pry up the crimps, re-clock and then re-crimp it. But I am sure it is easier not to mess with it and just exchange it for one that is correct.
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You’re funny Steve.
Now tell us about the cable clutch on the ‘69.
Last edited by Nos681 (2/20/2022 10:18 AM)
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Nos681 wrote:
You’re funny Steve.
Now tell us about the cable clutch on the ‘69.
Still working on getting it perfect. It works, but I need one minor little improvement to get it to my satisfaction.
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50vert wrote:
At least ya don't have'ta worry bout stacks of washers now.
????
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MS wrote:
50vert wrote:
At least ya don't have'ta worry bout stacks of washers now.
????
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The booster studs where the master cylinder mounts have been trimmed to 7/8” making it easy to get the master cylinder on and off.
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MS - Agree, if you going to do something, do it the right way ... or, at least the way that makes you happy.
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Steve, I included the link to refresh your memory on how to avoid a stack of washers in the hollow bendix mounting plate.
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west jefferson hospital
Update on the crooked booster situation.
The new booster from OReilly cured the problem of the leaning master cylinder. It turns out the old booster was properly put together as far as front-back half clocking. The problem was the master cylinder mounting studs were welded in crooked. One side was higher than the other, so the master cylinder did not bolt up straight
The new one is in, the master cylinder plumbing is in and master cylinder is bench bled. Now just need to finalize bleeding the brakes. The cable clutch system is finalized and installed, awaiting a test drive. Pedal effort is the least of any system
I have ever built.
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I made this special tube nut wrench to get to the hard lines on the proportioning valve, where red arrow points on previous post. Impossible to get to without it.
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Awesome work as usual.
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MS wrote:
The cable clutch system is finalized and installed, awaiting a test drive. Pedal effort is the least of any system
I have ever built.
Weeell...inquiring minds. How'd ya get the quadrant to fit above the clutch pedal. I'm about to button up my 69 and a cable clutch would be nice. I got some money burning a hole in my pocket.
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Looking at your above "-oh no I used a word I shouldn't have-" pic, the first thing that occurred to me was that you need a crow's foot. But I see you made one! Nice job.
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Crow foot wrenching on brake fittings is a disaster waiting to happen, guaranteed to round off the nut corners trying to get a leak proof seal.
Flare nut wrench is what is needed, and not cheap HF ones.
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Rudi wrote:
Crow foot wrenching on brake fittings is a disaster waiting to happen, guaranteed to round off the nut corners trying to get a leak proof seal.
Flare nut wrench is what is needed, and not cheap HF ones.
This one is made from an old Craftsman tube nut wrench that has never rounded off anything I have torqued down on, and most of you know what MY standard torque setting is.
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