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Today I was out and about in the hot rod playing around and running some errands. I was parked on a hill facing down, with the tires into the curb. When I went to back up and leave the parking spot, my foot slipped off the brake as I shifted into 1st. The car rolled back into the curb rather hard. No big deal. Then going home I noticed that the steering wheel was now clocked at about 10-11 o'clock. Steering was tight. No pull. No vibration. Nothing in the steering or suspension felt any different than before. Nothing under the car looked any different. nothing dented, bent, or sprung.
Anybody have some advice before I take it for an alignment? I don't want recenter the steering wheel and have something bad show up..
Here's my steering-suspension: TCP power R&P, TCP upper a-arms, stock lower control arms and strut rods. Steel wheels. Shelby drop. 1" GT springs
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It may have caused the rack to shift sideways a little bit where it mounts to the frame. That would result in the symptoms you described. Loosen all four bolts and recenter it?
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Shirley........they don't move that EZ?!!
IF I had a R&P I would want it at least tacked to the frame......
6sal6
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It doesn't take much to move the wheel off center. 1/32" of movement would be all it would take. I'd start with what's easy first. Loosen the rack bolts and see if it springs back to where it should be, tighten the bolts and see if it fixes it. If not you could have tweaked something. It doesn't take much if you hit something just right.
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The TCP rack is attached with shaft-collar type clamps around a round tube. If not torqued completely, it could easily slide. And, like TKO stated, it would not take much movement to get the wheel off a bit.
Mine are set to MustangSteve torque settings and have never moved in the 17 years it has been on the car, but I don’t ever turn the wheels into the curb.
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If not the the above mentioned R&P slide, look for the splined side of the u-joint. Happened in another brand car because the clamping screw was not tighth enough!
Mustsed
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MS wrote:
The TCP rack is attached with shaft-collar type clamps around a round tube. If not torqued completely, it could easily slide. And, like TKO stated, it would not take much movement to get the wheel off a bit.
Mine are set to MustangSteve torque settings and have never moved in the 17 years it has been on the car, but I don’t ever turn the wheels into the curb.
The TCP installation guide says : Inner brackets - 60 lb-ft; Outer brackets - 75 lb-ft.
What are the MS torque values?
I'm going to have to find someone with a lift. I do not have one and I do not get under jack stands any more for other than the most menial of tasks.
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I'm not an authority...never been able to master the MS method...but I believe his "torque values" are, "pull it down until just before it breaks." Or words to that effect.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
I'm not an authority...never been able to master the MS method...but I believe his "torque values" are, "pull it down until just before it breaks." Or words to that effect.
Nailed it, Bullet
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