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4/28/2022 11:08 AM  #51


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

speaker pods 


https://i.ibb.co/GP3QqXX/DSCN1032.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/HqgKGvx/DSCN1033.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/P4FXb55/DSCN1038.jpg


Here are some pics of the speaker recess.  We used SS dog bowls that we screwed and epoxied in.

Last edited by Glens 1965 50 (4/28/2022 11:11 AM)

 

4/29/2022 1:48 AM  #52


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Not sure why but my gas air compressor is not wanting to pump past 30 psi. I did develop a leak in my house that goes from one head and crosses over to the t that's connected to the other head. I'm going to change the hose the leak is pretty bad. Hopefully this is the issue. Maybe is just enough leak making it so the pilot valve isn't getting a good pressure reading to know if it needs to adjust the isle speed of to go to full speed. I one fitting i didn't change was the t off the left head. The t is special it's a 3 /4" x3/4" x1/2". I noticed when I hooked up a new hose to the t for to fill the tank. I noticed the t fitting is almost full of carbon build up don't know if that's a common thing to happen. I know air restriction can't be good so I plan on changing this T fitting as well  don't know if it's my issue. Don't think so as the air compressor functioned fine before. I did however noticed the belts were worn out so I had to go to AutoZone and they measured my old worn belts and got me some new ones. Maybe I need to just get shorter belts so the pump will engage and help build pressure? Plus 1/2" shorter belts might make it easier to adjust the belt tension . Any advice?

     Thread Starter
 

4/29/2022 1:49 AM  #53


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Glens 1965 50 wrote:

speaker pods 


https://i.ibb.co/GP3QqXX/DSCN1032.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/HqgKGvx/DSCN1033.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/P4FXb55/DSCN1038.jpg


Here are some pics of the speaker recess.  We used SS dog bowls that we screwed and epoxied in.

 
That's a cool idea adding in the speakers with the dog bowls

     Thread Starter
 

4/29/2022 6:11 AM  #54


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

I might have to add that speaker mod to mine while it's in a stage to do so.

 

4/29/2022 11:31 AM  #55


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

I need to add. after this mod on the 67-8 car the inner support brace for the fender need to be notched for clearance on the speaker cover.  Check this before paint!

 

4/29/2022 2:42 PM  #56


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Glens 1965 50 wrote:

I need to add. after this mod on the 67-8 car the inner support brace for the fender need to be notched for clearance on the speaker cover.  Check this before paint!

 
Cool deal I think some speakers would be nice. Thanks for sharing the photos.

     Thread Starter
 

4/29/2022 3:04 PM  #57


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

It looks like on my car that the underside of the cowl base is in really nice shape as seen from under the dash. Im thinking im still going to remove the top half of the cowl just to make sure its clean in side there plus then I can properly seal all the surfaces. Im also planning on using seam seal on my mating surfaces along with plug welds I plan to do this on my floor pans where the main floor ties into the firewall.  I remember in class at SLCC when I took the auto collison course that a joint with plug welds and seam seal is almost new looking after hours of being subject to salt and water. Only thing to remember is not to use to much seam seal or it will oose out the joints.

Does anyone here have pictures of a pillar repair? Im planning on bracing first then removing a small section of the drip rail. Then remove the A pillar outer or just weld in a replacement  section in the pillar after the drip rail removal. Im just seeing some rust form under the drip rail and I dont want it to get worse and have to remove my drip rails completely. I know my old bosses answer its a Coupe who cares fill it with seam sealer again those rails cant be fixed on a coupe. My answer why half axs fix the rail with sealer? But go to the extent of sanding every nook and cranny completely clean with 80 grit metal finish? When we can pull roof off and fix that rail. Bosses answer But is a Coupe. Shortly after finalizing the csrs paint removal and getting the car ready for next stage mocking up panels and seeing what metal work needed to be done. My ole Boss tells me you know. After seeing the Coupe sitting next to all these Fast Backs plus one 1967 GTO, my Boss tells me I really think I prefer a Coupe now. Crazy at that time My Boss had a 1967 Shelby GT:500, 1969 Mach 1 Drag pack car Factory Shaker, a 1954 Kaiser Darrin, and a 1968 Fastback originally  a 390 now has an alluminum 427 5speed and is built to look like a 1968 Shelby GT:500 came in as a really bad Eleanor Clone gone wrong.

Last edited by True74yamaha (4/29/2022 4:09 PM)

     Thread Starter
 

5/05/2022 8:01 AM  #58


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Don’t you wish it was like Overhaulin’ where they say IT’S OFF TO MEDIA BLAST and then five minutes later the car rolls back in, totally cleaned up and bare?
And then, thirty minutes later, it’s off to paint.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

5/08/2022 11:33 AM  #59


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

MS wrote:

Don’t you wish it was like Overhaulin’ where they say IT’S OFF TO MEDIA BLAST and then five minutes later the car rolls back in, totally cleaned up and bare?
And then, thirty minutes later, it’s off to paint.

 
Ha ha that would be nice right now as im trying to get my air compressor going to finish my sandblasting. I think after replacing the worn belts. Im thinking I need to go back and get shorter belts. I dont think theres enough tension to get the pump to work. It wont build pressure past 30 psi. I did develop an air leak so I plan on replacing the hose if I can find a replacement it goes in-between the pumps heads im having a hard time find a replacement. I think I may have to take the old hose to a hydraulic shop and have them make me a replacement. I also found my main oem t fitting off one head that feeds the tank is sorta filled up with carbon. I need to buy an oem replacement as its a special 3/4 3/4 1/2 tee fitting. I think my main issue is the belts. Maybe when I took them to autozone they had  to measure the worn cracked belts as there were no numbers. Atleast the replacement belts are close but need to be a little shorter as they still feel pretty sloppy when fully adjusted. Maybe need to get 1/2 shorter. If it turns out my pump is bad or something. I found a quincy qt7.5 pump for $300 its rated at like 23.7 cfm at 175psi it would be an awesome replacement if my pumps bad. Im hoping though that its the belts.

     Thread Starter
 

5/08/2022 11:35 AM  #60


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Also my cowl looks awesome on the top side. I have everything underdash taken out of the car minus steering column. I dont see any rust on the cowl bottom. Im debating removing  the cowl top to seal inside the cowl. Any suggestions??

     Thread Starter
 

5/08/2022 12:42 PM  #61


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

With this much work/time/$$ you have invested I would remove it.  Have done 1-2 cars where there was no rust visible and passed the water test just to start leaking 2-3 years down the road after the nice paint job. 50+ year old unprepped steel and a piss poor design to boot.

 

5/08/2022 2:51 PM  #62


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Glens 1965 50 wrote:

With this much work/time/$$ you have invested I would remove it.  Have done 1-2 cars where there was no rust visible and passed the water test just to start leaking 2-3 years down the road after the nice paint job. 50+ year old unprepped steel and a piss poor design to boot.

Thank you thats kinda what im figuring. Anyone have any luck with removing the top half with out completely damaging it? I would like to just reinstall it after. Also what bracing should I weld in the car before I remove the cowl

     Thread Starter
 

5/09/2022 9:23 AM  #63


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

The process would've gone alot quicker if  I would've had the deck lid filler panel removed prior to starting. Almost fully completed sand blasting  then I will be ready to start tackling the metal work then body and fender work. Then prep and paint work. I have decided I will remove the roof skin by drilling out the spot welds in the front and read glass channel flanges. Then grind down the braze joints on the pillars then I will cutt off the roof skin flange that sits in the drip rail. I will try and only cut the roof flange so I can separate the roof akin from the car. Then I can clean and treat the roof structure and do any needed patching and metal fabrication thats needed. Then I will cut out bend then weld on a new flange for the roof skin. while the skin is removed I plan on fabricating a small roof skin patch. Also plan on removing a section of the drip rail so I can tackle fixing the srip rail and also fabricate a small patch for the a pillars. I Noticed some rust forming underneath the drip rail and the a pillar. I dont want that eye sore to show when the car is painted so I plan on fixing the rust with out butchering the drip rail completely. The biggest thing thats setting me back is getting my air compressor functional again. Needs to figure out what the issue is. Then I can finish sand blasting the car.

     Thread Starter
 

5/11/2022 6:11 AM  #64


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

True74yamaha wrote:

The process would've gone alot quicker if I would've had the deck lid filler panel removed prior to starting. Almost fully completed sand blasting then I will be ready to start tackling the metal work then body and fender work. Then prep and paint work. I have decided I will remove the roof skin by drilling out the spot welds in the front and read glass channel flanges. Then grind down the braze joints on the pillars then I will cutt off the roof skin flange that sits in the drip rail. I will try and only cut the roof flange so I can separate the roof akin from the car. Then I can clean and treat the roof structure and do any needed patching and metal fabrication thats needed. Then I will cut out bend then weld on a new flange for the roof skin. while the skin is removed I plan on fabricating a small roof skin patch. Also plan on removing a section of the drip rail so I can tackle fixing the srip rail and also fabricate a small patch for the a pillars. I Noticed some rust forming underneath the drip rail and the a pillar. I dont want that eye sore to show when the car is painted so I plan on fixing the rust with out butchering the drip rail completely. The biggest thing thats setting me back is getting my air compressor functional again. Needs to figure out what the issue is. Then I can finish sand blasting the car.

When I removed the roof panel from my 66 coupe project I used my cutoff wheel to remove all the welds in the drip rail channel and around the window openings.  This was much easier than trying to drill all those welds in the drip rail area.  I think I would have ruined the drip rail if I had tried to drill the welds out.  The added benefit of using the cutoff wheel is you are left with a nice solid surface to reattach the roof panel to.

 

5/29/2022 10:38 AM  #65


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Question due to having the rear seat floor removed plus the transition pan and trunk sides. Im hesitant on finishing removing the roof skin. Dont want my car to start flexing around should I weld in some braces to hold the roof braces where they should be? I got a wild hair and just went for it on removing my roof skin. I thought I could drill and pop the spot welds on the rear glass and front glass flanges. I currently have almost all the rear glass spot weld popped loose and I have now cut along the drip rail on the passenger side breaking the roof skin flange loose from the drip rail. Went quick should've not hesitated on this area of my build has sorta prolonged build as I really wasnt sure how I wanted to remove the Roof skin. Seems likes it coming loose pretty easy. Im thinking I should be able to reuse the original roof skin by welding in a small patch section to passenger side sail panel section of the roof skin. Then ill also weld on new flanges on each side to re attach the skin to the drip rails when I go to reinstall the skin.

     Thread Starter
 

5/29/2022 10:58 AM  #66


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

My goal is to remove the roof skin then I can sand blast the roof sail panels both interior and exterior sides then ill sand blast the roof braces. Then use wire wheels and brushes to clean off the blast media from the metal pours. Then I will finally made some real progress and can start the funner part of the build the metal fabrication welding and refinishing steps then can start getting some primer laid down.

     Thread Starter
 

5/29/2022 11:11 AM  #67


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

I would feel ok with those panels removed and the roof but only as long as the frame rails are secired and the front floor pan is secured.

 

5/29/2022 11:33 AM  #68


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Wow thank you for such speedy reply. The front frame rails are still factory welded to the floor pans and all factory points. Rear frame rails are connected to the stock locations and have my rear axle hung on factory leaf springs and shackles. I have welded in 1 3/4" square tube welded horizontally attaching to both interior panel thats to the sides of the rear seat. The are welded just above where the wheel houses would sit.


Have removed my transition pan,rear shock crossmember,small section of the under rear seat portion on both sides, both rear wheelhouses trunk floor rear crossmember tail light panel and trunk filler panel have all been removed. The body seems over all sturdy with what has been removed so far. I just was unsure to how sturdy it would be with the roof skin removed

Last edited by True74yamaha (5/29/2022 11:34 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

5/29/2022 11:45 AM  #69


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

https://i.ibb.co/Fh65W0R/20220414-171537.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/db3c4Gq/20210715-002323.jpg


Forgot about the second 3/4" tubing support welded vertically attaching to each rear frame rail. Bad pictures but all I have. I think it should be okay with the skin removed. I know I need to weld in a patch section in the a Pillars I will definitely weld in some extra supports when I get to that point. I plan on removing the drip rail sections that are attached the the A pillars. Then after welding in some vertical supports for the A pillars  then clean treat or weld in patch sections behind where the drip rail mounts. The drip rails are in amazing shape though.

     Thread Starter
 

5/29/2022 3:00 PM  #70


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

You have most certainly gotten in there deep.  I would add a few supports more myself or at least grab the car and see how flimsy it feels.  That should give you a good idea. I would be more concerned with transporting the car on a trailer than just moving it around.

Since your rear structure is mostly removed I would have leveled the car and taken measurements from the shackle mounts to the floor to make sure they don't move.  Of course if you move the car make sure you have a measurement from a solid point to reference later.  Say the car at the rockers is 24 inches from the ground and the shackle point is 34 inches.  If you level the car out and the rocker is 20 inches now then you know the shackle location should be 30 inches.

 

5/31/2022 6:33 PM  #71


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

I managed to remove the roof skin today on my Mustang. Don't tell anyone please noone has seen it yet.
I am pretty happy with the overall condition of the under structure. I will have to address the drivers side upper windsheild corner. Probably the reason why my car had a leak in that corner after the glass was installed when I first got my car going when I was 17yrs old. I regret not doing full quarters the first time around. So here I am now And I'm building my Car back to like New drivable condition or what ever yall wanna call it.

https://i.ibb.co/wC5VQfP/20220531-170310.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/z6YF86b/20220531-165705.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/8gNqSyQ/20220531-165550.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6Ncx5zz/20220531-165246.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/k6tvzgg/20220531-165315.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/MPvCQpV/20220531-165107.jpg

     Thread Starter
 

5/31/2022 6:41 PM  #72


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Also have to address the passenger side box section of the sail panel. Have you guys removed the drip rails with successfully not destroying them so that they can be reinstalled? Do you guys have any photos of your pillar repairs or sail panel rebuild would love to see how others went about their repairs.

Last edited by True74yamaha (5/31/2022 6:44 PM)

     Thread Starter
 

6/03/2022 11:10 AM  #73


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Thought I'd mention buy the harborfreight extended warranty for the sand blaster its worth it. I accidentally recieved a bad bag of blast media. First 1/2 was great worked as it should. Other half don't know how but the media got moisture trapped in the bag. Clogged the sandblaster that I bought. I should also invest in a screen that I could add to my funnel. Or a large funnel with a built in screen make work slower on the fill up but saves time in the long run. I ended up buying a new replacement harborfreight 20lb abrasive blaster with an upgraded nozzle found on Amazon.com. would also like to add wheels to the Unit maybe even add six small lawn mower or wagon wheels. That way the unit could be used horizontal or vertical. Reason I'd like to have it be capable of being used both ways is it would make it so I could easily adjust the bottom sand flow Valve. Yes it definitely reduces ball valve life but make the unit a little nicer some times. Would there be a stronger valve that I could add to my sand blaster that would enable me to adjust flow  rate easily?

     Thread Starter
 

6/04/2022 8:00 AM  #74


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Been having some really nice weather her in Utah. I was able to get some more sand blasting done on my car. Now I need to pick up some more media. I unfortunately got two bags of bad media. I need to go back to Blast Products and buy some more blast media. Geez I wasn't thinking I'd need to go back but also hadn't planned on having the minor set back with the media. Not very much left to do I think Ill buy 10 bags of Blast media 10 bags roughly around $125 dollars about $12.50 a bag. At the rate I've gone I now am thinking I should've saved up at bought maybe a pallet or a bulk size bag depending on how the bulk bag is sealed.

https://i.ibb.co/JBm9b2N/20220602-180417-0.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/xXTx67R/20220602-180410.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/LQmkY9P/20220602-180401.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/CQvrR2m/20220602-180356.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/j4W5KtC/20220602-180409.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/qJSrmTd/20220602-180417.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/0m3tM0t/20220602-180349.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/1ZGpwK0/20220602-120356.jpg

Last edited by True74yamaha (6/04/2022 1:12 PM)

     Thread Starter
 

6/04/2022 7:03 PM  #75


Re: 1965 Mustang Coupe I did some Archiological digging look what I found

Well im out of sand blasting material. I went ahead and started wire wheeling and conditioning disc the inner structure. The worser of the two sides came out pretty clean now I really just need more media to get the rest of the body and inner structure cleaned up then I can finally start primering the car.

https://i.ibb.co/Mht5517/20220604-182525.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/2FhxbdH/20220604-181306.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/bHPFLVp/20220604-181253.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/JBm9b2N/20220602-180417-0.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/qJSrmTd/20220602-180417.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/xXTx67R/20220602-180410.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/LQmkY9P/20220602-180401.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/CQvrR2m/20220602-180356.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/0m3tM0t/20220602-180349.jpg

     Thread Starter
 

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