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I had the opertunity to take the Gene Winfield metal class when I was working at a Different Custom car shop. I was thinking that using a metal form cut to the shape of my cars Interior sail panel shapes the big hole that is right above the Sail panel box has some rust. What are some opinions on building patches here also. Maybe went a head a little to far. Maybe need to add some more bracing one I can get my rear shock crossmember mounted along with the transition panel. Any advice is Much appreciated
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Seems like a lot of extra work to make the form, if you could just weld in some patch panels instead. I wouldn't necessarily think the whole panel would need replaced.
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If it was me I would have saved all the old metal I cut out, if you haven't already. I would make a cardboard template of it and start forming it by hand. As for trying to make a form out of wood, no way it would give you the results you are looking for. You could never get crisp bends or edges. You also have to find a way to keep the top part of your wood die aligned with the bottom wood die. Plus by the time you even tried to make a wood pattern with a top and bottom you could have made the part by hand.
When I replace metal I try to remove only what I need to in order to replace the part I am after. Far less chance of things getting out of hand. Second I would always have a point of reference to measure from or to duplicate from a factory part that has not been altered in anyway. You get to far ahead and you could get lost and end up with things being way off.
So yes if you have parts that are removed and can be replaced I would replace them as long as they do no cause issues with the next part that may need to be removed or installed.
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I still have all the old metal I have removed. Really was careful cutting out the material. I will go with above suggestions and weld in patches to the interior sail panel. The passenger side looks to be the worst of the two sides. I only think I will need to remove part of the outer sail panel and weld in a small section to patch the box section. The interior sail panel on the drivers side is perfect shape it sanded out great.
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Like RTM said, you won't get crisp lines with a wood buck. Its not going to be the same as a stamping where thy use metal dies and thousands of pounds of pressure. When they used to use wood bucks I'm also pretty sure they used something really hard like maple, so a cobbled together lump of 2x4s isn't going to be hard enough to beat on with a hammer. At this point the material to make such a buck would probably be several hundred dollars.
I would go with the cut and patch method. If you need something intricate you can't reproduce easily consider making it in several parts you can make and then welding them together.
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I would cut away the rust and hammer up a piece to fit in. This is not something that shows. If you want a 100% perfect car, you need to go buy one.
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No first hand experience but Ron Covell shares allot on YouTube.
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If I still had my wrecked 66 it had a perfect top on it.
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A 'little' off-topic..........wonder why the factory made that section of the roof with so many "windows" & openings?
Weight savings?!
6s6
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6sally6 wrote:
A 'little' off-topic..........wonder why the factory made that section of the roof with so many "windows" & openings?
Weight savings?!
6s6
They add stiffness, prevent “oil canning” and are placed in area’s to prevent wrinkles during the die forming process.
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Thank you for the replies I will try and patch the sail panel inner structure the best I can. I will post new photos later.
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Rudi wrote:
6sally6 wrote:
A 'little' off-topic..........wonder why the factory made that section of the roof with so many "windows" & openings?
Weight savings?!
6s6
They add stiffness, prevent “oil canning” and are placed in area’s to prevent wrinkles during the die forming process.
Weight and cost savings too. The metal that would have been in the window adds no strength; the strength comes from the folds around the window opening. However, it still adds weight, even though not a lot, its the old adage about losing weight on a car: don't look for 10 ways to lose 100 lbs, look for 16,000 ways to lose an ounce. Plus, then they could sell the extra as scrap to be recycled.
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Sometimes those "windows" are for the spot welder tip access. As well.
Tools like these can be invaluable.
These are like the ones I have. My brake came from HF. Its like this one but the don't sell it anymore. I got mine back when the cost was cheap. I'd have to dig out the receipt, but I think I paid 30. Its cheap, but its done everything I've ever used them for.
If your going to make stuff, invaluable tools. If your going to make a lot of stuff, buy the good shi#!
Last edited by Greg B (6/15/2022 6:14 AM)
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Rudi wrote:
6sally6 wrote:
A 'little' off-topic..........wonder why the factory made that section of the roof with so many "windows" & openings?
Weight savings?!
6s6
They add stiffness, prevent “oil canning” and are placed in area’s to prevent wrinkles during the die forming process.Weight and cost savings too. The metal that would have been in the window adds no strength; the strength comes from the folds around the window opening. However, it still adds weight, even though not a lot, its the old adage about losing weight on a car: don't look for 10 ways to lose 100 lbs, look for 16,000 ways to lose an ounce. Plus, then they could sell the extra as scrap to be recycled.
How would adding a inverted piece to the window and spot welded along window flange?
Best way I can describe is a brimmed hat attached at edges to existing opening.
There would be a small channel between the two pieces.
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