Stupid question butt (TS&T), are you certain that the fans are moving air in the right direction?
BB1
 

What prompted you to go from mechanical to electric?

Where do you have the temp switch? Have you wired in an override? What shape is your electrical system in? Is there any type of shroud? How are the fans placed on the radiator? What brand are the fans?

Lot's of things it could be.

Last edited by Raymond_B (7/16/2022 6:43 PM)

Nuther question.  Okay, a couple of questions.
Does it heat up just setting and idling or only at speed?  If only at speed did you put a spring in the lower hose.  Don't ask why I know to ask this question.
 

Nos681 wrote:

I would suggest taking a closer look at the fan blade shape to pull air.
The 1900 rpm tells me that there is a load on the electric motors.
Therefore, I believe that is the correct way to mount the fan blades.

Have any pictures?

Im trying to upload photos but I dont think its working:

Fans are on a relay.....Temp Switch is located on the Thermostat Housing.....when I removed the Older Rad I found a broken like spring in the bottom, it was in there in all different directions and had sharp edges.  Its been a while now since I did that but I do believe some still remained ---- It spikes whenever you are not Moving and Climbs to Dangerous levels at idle or very slow speeds (acclerating and braking in city) but holds when driving around 40-50mph....

Are you sure the t-stat is working?  What you are describing sounds a lot like a stuck t-stat. 

Also, to convert a pusher fan to a puller you typically flip the blade and wire it differently.  It sounds like the blade was flipped, but I'm wondering about the wiring. 

The problems encountered with electric fans are typically traced to one of two things: cheap, low quality fans, or poor electrical design on the control. 
 

When installing my setup I used this guy's controller and followed his advice https://www.autocoolguy.com/services Like anything there's tons of debates about placement of the temp sensor. All I know is that my supercharged 427w with dual SPAL 11" fans that have the intercooler, AC condenser, and Power Stroke trans cooler in front of my radiator stays cool on 100+ days. Now this is a truck with huge frontal area, but still shows that a properly setup elec fan system is not the devil The devil is in the details. Like mentioned cheap fans, charging system not up to snuff, incorrect and/or mis calibrated sensor, fan direction not right, etc, etc all add to the woes.

Because it gets hot at low/no speeds it sounds like an airflow issue, either the fans are spinning too slow, wrong direction or the shroud, if any is not correct.  

Hopefully you can post pics so we can see.

Yeah my guess is they are cheap effin fans.  I ordered a Soak to see if that makes a difference and now fighting with the company. If I paid a friggin premium to have these total garbage fans, I'm gonna snap and make sure the world knows not to buy their products.  To boot their customer service is sub par! 


I can only assume the T-Stat is good and working as I replaced it last year.  As mentioned, the flowing isn't visible in the rad on a cold start, only later.  And it doesn't stop flowing nor the the temp gauges drop, only climb.

I have 2 gauges, the factory one and a 3-stack set that has that fitting that dips in the cooling system and is connected with thermo metal to the gauge

Rudi wrote:

What prompted you to go from mechanical to electric?

I can't find your answer to Rudi's question so I'll ask again:  Why did you change to the electric if the mechanical was working...to quote you..."perfectly"?

Many times I made changes just because I could, sometimes I shouldn’t have.
You read about things others have done and think, “that’s cool” I think I’ll do that even though it’s not needed.

Raymond_B wrote:

M1Mustang69 wrote:

Yeah my guess is they are cheap effin fans. I ordered a Soak to see if that makes a difference and now fighting with the company. If I paid a friggin premium to have these total garbage fans, I'm gonna snap and make sure the world knows not to buy their products. To boot their customer service is sub par!


I can only assume the T-Stat is good and working as I replaced it last year. As mentioned, the flowing isn't visible in the rad on a cold start, only later. And it doesn't stop flowing nor the the temp gauges drop, only climb.

I have 2 gauges, the factory one and a 3-stack set that has that fitting that dips in the cooling system and is connected with thermo metal to the gauge

Sorry to hear about the poor customer service, what's the name of the place so we can all stay away?

As far as "cheap" fans go, that's probably the top or at least one of the top reasons people have issues with elec fans. I'd say 2nd is wiring as the fans can pull a LOT of amps especially on startup. I highly recommend SPAL.
 

That's exactly what I ended up doing, I ordered one SPAL just to see if that makes an improvement, if it does (as I suspect it shall) then the problem is ruled out........well one is, the other is the fact I Paid TOP dollar for a Fan, Shroud and Dual 12" fans to receive Junk Fans!
Its safe to say the Rad works cause at 80mph it cools right down to a crazy low temp, the Thermostat wouldn't stand a chance on opening with how cool it runs......I may end up switching to a 165deg thermo if that's not already in there, I just cant recall if I did that or 180....

The Company/Brand is DNA Motoring (https://dnamotoring.com/)........it was not a direct fit, the description said V8 1967/68 Mustang/Cougars/Maverick, so there's that lol.
 

Good luck with any kind of tech support for issues.

The curved blades and S blades get me confused.
I would try them on the bench and see which direction the blades draw to most air as mounted on radiator.
Sometimes, too many blades makes the fan operate worse.

Sorry to hear about your poor results.

Last edited by Nos681 (7/17/2022 8:48 PM)