While you have the current spacer, perhaps altering your warm starting procedure will get you going more quickly.  The correct starting procedure for a warm engine with a carburetor, according to the old manual, is to partially depress and hold the accelerator pedal while cranking the engine.  This will open the throttle blades some providing extra air the engine needs to offset the fuel.  Do not more the accelerator pedal once you partially depress it so you don't add any squirts of fuel.  Just hold it open.



 

Last edited by Rufus68 (7/20/2022 12:41 PM)

I have an  Edelbrock Performer intake also - just wondering which spacer to get? Four hole or open?

I had 1406 and Performer 289 intake as well.
I used Edelbrock’s 3/8” heat isolator spacer.
It was enough to stop the percolating in California in the valley.

As I recall it’s a 2 hole oval spacer with divider in middle.

Rufus…Do you have to wear heels during start up?

Today's computers that control fuel (EFI) have taken over the job of properly starting a car.  You can call this "start by wire".  Before EFI, meaning classic cars with carburetors, the driver had to know the proper procedure for starting the engine based on the needs dictated by the conditions.  The drivers of today simply turn the key or press the START button and are clueless to the thought that in the past starting an engine took knowing the correct procedure.  Watch this vintage video that was responding to complaints of hard starting engines in new cars. 




 

Rufus68 wrote:

Today's computers that control fuel (EFI) have taken over the job of properly starting a car.  You can call this "start by wire".  Before EFI, meaning classic cars with carburetors, the driver had to know the proper procedure for starting the engine based on the needs dictated by the conditions.  The drivers of today simply turn the key or press the START button and are clueless to the thought that in the past starting an engine took knowing the correct procedure.  Watch this vintage video that was responding to complaints of hard starting engines in new cars. 




 

Thanks Rufus - it isn't that hard to start when hot, just that it won't idle smoothly long enough to get it in gear and get moving. It loads up and dies. Last year, I reset the idle mixtures and idle speed using a vacuum gauge and tach. It was idling too slow to keep the alternator charging. I've had the heat soak problem before that.

As usual, I stir up the carburetor controversy. I have never used a spacer under any carburetor and have never had any heat related issues. I live in Tx where it has been 100 degrees every day this summer. I just do not understand what causes problems with some cars and not with others.

I can only assume there are vast differences in the types of fuel supply lines running between the pump and carb. I see some real scary stuff on alot of cars at various car shows.

I have always tried to run hard lines formed like factory lines, where they do not touch anything and do not have fuel filters atop the engine, or other heat soak potential problems. Is that what makes mine work but not others?  I am just real curious why this is even a thing.  Temperatures where I drive are at least as hot as anywhere else in the world experiences.  All I have ever used is a single gasket. I prefer the fully open plenum type gaskets to not risk pieces ever coming loose and being ingested.

Why does my carb work fine and others do not?   Note I made no mention of carb brand, which I think would be totally irrelevant.

I should have included the following in my earlier response. …
Edelbrock Performer RPM Manifold #7181
Trans Dapt 1/2" Carb Spacer #2370, 4-Hole
Holley DP 600CFM
BBK Headers
180 degree T-Stat.
 
I’ve never had starting issues when hot, (before or after installing a functional Shelby scoop) and included this spacer “good to have” on the original build.

Well, I got the Edelbrock plastic carb spacer and new gaskets and installed them. I drove the car for 1/2 and hour on the freeway with outside air temps in the low 90's. I parked it and shut it off and let it soak for fifteen minutes. It started right up and idled nicely. I also had rerouted my fuel line on top of the manifold so that the metal fuel filter wasn't in contact with the intake manifold. Which ever thing I did, managed to help the situation. Thanks for the suggestions.