It really helps stabilize the shock towers. Makes a noticeable difference. This is one occasion where Scott Drake makes a good concours copy of the original. Cheaper ones with flatter stampings are way inferior in performance and appearance.
In the pics, the chrome one is the cheaper type to avoid. It is not stamped as deep and is way weaker. You can flex it by hand holding it in front of you. The deeper stamped version is rigid.

Last edited by MS (10/20/2022 6:28 AM)

The deeper stamped ones also are better for holding sockets and other tools when working under the hood.😁

Thanks very much, I appreciate the information on this and I'm sold on getting one. I will definitely go with the black one that is recommended.
One question though... Do I need to cut anything to mount one?
I had no issues fitting the monte carlo bar, so I'm hoping this means that I won't have any issues fitting the export brace.

Last edited by Toploader (10/20/2022 2:36 PM)

Most people remove the spot welded on brackets on the shock towers for better looks, but it's not required.

The export brave is a great addition to add some rigid Meas to the car. If your Monti Carlo bar went into place easy then chances are it will line up over the shocks. At the firewall could be a different story. For my car, jacked up the front under the cross member then set it on jack stands at the torque boxes. Then slowly lower the car to get the holes at the firewall to line up. The sag in the car should say something about how the cars flex.   

Great video. I added the plates at the base of the shock towers in 2020 while I was working on the second motor. I had welded up the one shock tower crack before the car went to the paint shop. Steve and Glen welded up the next crack after I got the car on the road. Seems like I found another crack when the plates went in.

I added the metal seat divider too when I put putting the car back together. It’s coated in Lizard Skin products.

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (10/21/2022 9:19 AM)

I've never heard of anyone cutting anything to fit an export brace, so I'd say you won't need any cutting or drilling.

Edit:  The only exception to this are the ones that had a factory stub portion of the tower brace spot welded to the towers that remain after removing the 2 part braces.  I think these are only on early cars.  The export brace fits over these though I read where some decide to cut the spot welds and remove these stubs.

Last edited by Rufus68 (10/22/2022 1:35 AM)

Thanks guys!
I just now need to order it and fit it. The Scott Drake one that was recommended...

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

I added Monte carlo bar and the export brace as well as a 1 inch sway bar could tell the car handled a lot better.

I already have the monte carlo bar fitted, along with the 1" sway bar. These upgrades alone certainly made a difference for me.

I'm looking to purchase the one piece export brace, but keep wondering how much different it will be to the factory Ford export braces. Does it being one piece make all the difference?

Thanks Bearing Bob!
So the original Ford braces still flex a lot?

The ones like BillyC have are good at bending the firewall flange as they move around. Basically, they do not do anything because the raised part by the firewall acts as a lever arm to bend the firewall flange rather than support the shock towers. Sorry, BillyC, that is just the way physics works. The one piece non-bendable Shelby export brace is much superior. In fact, the two piece originals are much stronger than what you pictured.
This can be demonstrated by simply elongating the adjustable bars and watching as the firewall flange bends as you elongate it. The bending means it is doing nothing to support the shock towers.
Bling does not equal strength.

The one piece original style Shelby export brace is the best structural piece I have come across, bar none. It holds the firewall flange rigid while supporting both shock towers equally.

I bent mine a little bit

Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (11/21/2022 9:11 PM)