I run 315/60/15's on my truck on a 15x10 rim, it is a really big tire. I run ET Drag Radials which sacrifice treadwear for much better traction after a decent burnout. Would not recommend them in the rain though!

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A good model of what NHRA wants for safety and roll bar positioning. (I suppose)

Last edited by 6sally6 (3/03/2023 10:53 AM)

I pulled the trigger and ordered the 6 point bar from Rhodes.  It was a couple bucks more than Jegs.  I felt Rhodes had spent a lot of time answering my questions, so I went with them.  I did order the pro street door bars and rear bars that allow the rear seat to remain untouched. 

I went with the door bars because the wife actually liked them.  She said it looks tougher. She never offers input on anything I work on.  I can not deny her the one thing she suggested.  lol

I was going to make the cross bar removable.  With the door bars being added, access to the back seat would be almost impossible.  I did not want to make both the door bars and cross bar removable.  It will all be welded in solid.

The plan for now is to land the main hoop on the rear torque box, if the rear seat allows it.  If not it will be on the convertible inner rocker as well as the door bars.  They will land on the inner rocker as well.

Nice. Did your heart rate increase a bit when the roll bar arrived? Fun times.

I have gotten the door bars cut, notched for final fit.  The rear bars will take a little more planning so I mocked it up and walked away to think it over.  I also have two extra straight bars.  I think they sent me these two bars by accident.  I did not order any X bracing. I’m thinking they may be straight door bars or straight rear bars. 

The more I work on the roll bar and see what it’s starting to look like.  The more I’m happy with the direction I had chosen.   It’s something I’ve always wanted to do but was afraid to do it. 

Rudi wrote:

Good use of  1,2,3 blocks

 
Used them to layout my cut line so it would keep the bar parallel to the rocker too.

Are you planning on using 6x6" .⅛" thick base plates where the tubes mount to the body? It spreads the forces if the roll bar is put to use. NHRA & SCCA requires them.

Bearing Bob wrote:

Rudi wrote:

Good use of  1,2,3 blocks

 
Is there a bad use for them?

 
I’ve used my 1x2x3 blocks for everything.   I even have the ones I made when I was in school.   Even have my small vise I machined. 


The only place I can use the plates will be on the rear bars to the trunk floor.  The other points of contact are on top of the convertible inner rocker.  The main hoop will need a small platform made because part of the bar isn’t on the inner rocker.  This box will also tie into the rear torque box.  Pretty sure the points of contact will be far stronger than a plate over a sheet metal floor.

Rotor is a 13" 2001 Mustang Cobra, caliper is 2014 Mustang GT Brembo 4 piston.

Nos681 wrote:

This is what Bearing Bob has for door bar front mount….used with permission.

 
And Bob's getting a little tired of having to slide his feet around that thang.

Rudi wrote:

My size 14’s would cause entry issues as well.

 
Do they even fit under the dash?  Lol

Rudi wrote:

There have been many long trips in my stocking feet till I found a place that sold size 14 Puma driving shoes.
They are similar to the ones F1 racing shoes ,low cut and have a rounded heel and very light.

 
My father wore a 14 or 16, can’t remember now.  He was 6-2 as well and a big bone guy.  I got my mothers genes.  Only 5-8 at 170.  Only issue I have with shoe sizes is the width.   I think I would trip over my self if I wore a size 14.  Lol

Took all day today to fit the rear bars.  Yesterday I got the lower boxed cut and tacked in for the main hoop.   The complete bar is cut and fitted.  The rear bars have a compound notch.   I almost nailed the angle with my tubing notcher but sadly I had to finish it by hand.   Then I traced the notches on cardboard from a cereal box, inverted it to transfer the compound angles to the other rear bar.
   Very happy with the choice I made.  Next is step is to sand the bars, weld them all in and prime it.