Bearing Bob wrote:

Nice work there Bob, I can feel your pain. Now for the fun part of distorting your body to weld them up. That roll bar, along with the convertible inner rockers and one piece seat riser will really stiffen up the chassis. I can jack up my front end by lifting from the rear torque box area.

 
Thanks, my son was just saying the same thing yesterday.   Hoping I can get the bar welded and primed during the week.  Then back to painting the rest of the mustang.  We have two more weeks with our son before he leaves for SOI training.  He wants to try and paint some parts.  I need to make that happen.   Lol

BobE wrote:

Remember to leave room to install the roof insulation and the headliner. 

 
Kinda late for that.

RTM wrote:

Bearing Bob wrote:

BobE wrote:

Remember to leave room to install the roof insulation and the headliner. 

 
Kinda late for that.

 
I don’t think the bar will get in the way of installing the headliner or the insulation.   Speaking of insulation, I need to figure out what to use on the roof.

 
I recommend an MTF one piece. Not cheap, but nice with the extra head room.

I’ve gone back and fourth on a one piece headliner or stock replacement.   Headroom isn’t much of an issue for me.   I’m only 5-8.  Lol

I should have saved the original insulation from the roof when I replaced that panel.

Bearing Bob wrote:

RTM wrote:

Headroom isn’t much of an issue for me.   I’m only 5-8.  Lol

 
I'll trade ya.

 
Funny, I had for the longest time had wished I was taller.

Roll bar is almost finished.  Just need to fit and weld the cross bar in.  Then back to the paint work. 

6sally6 wrote:

Nice welds.
Did you make the 'birds-mouths' with a hole saw?
6s6

Harbor Freight has a tool that notches tubing.  I feel it saved me a lot of manual grinding by hand.  The HF fixture was slightly off center.  I felt it was close enough and never bothered to shim it to get a perfect center.  I did have to grind the top of the rear bars by hand.  I tried to eye ball the compound angle and I was close, buy decided to not chase this angle and finish them by hand.  I had calculated the notch needed to rotate by 27 degrees.  This was by eyeballing  the amount I needed to rotate it.  I think some where between 30-35 degrees would have gotten it.  I felt it was better to work with what got me close and I knew I could make it work without having to repurchase the rear bars.

The rear cross bar in the picture that is not welded, it came notched with the kit.  This is the final piece I need to fit and weld in.  Then it will be complete.  I'm still not sure why I received two longer straight bars with the roll bar kit when I ordered it.  I think they were either the front or rear straight bars that should have been removed when I purchased the pro street bent bars.  I do not plan on X bracing the main hoop and they are way to long to have been meant for short braces from the hoop to the trans tunnel.  The kit I bought was a main hoop, two rear bars and two door bars.

Do ya have a bar running across (behind the sun visor area) tying the pass & driver side together ?...
      (Makes a really cool place to mount your start button....fuel pump switch....electric fans.)
Is there two bars running forward under the hood?
  Just guessing where the extra tubing may have come from in the kit......
You plan to cover the bar with foam ?
  Since it's mainly a street ride (and a REALLY nice one)