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Update on the F100 budget Build:
Convert from LWB to SWB
Install Crown Vic Front Suspension
Install Explorer 8.8
Install 351w
Install 4R70w
Everything has been reasonably inexpensive up to this point EXCEPT for the Baumann UShift controller.
While I'm nowhere near the level that some of you guys are at, I'm not afraid to give it a shot.
I cut 16.2" out of the frame and bed of the 76 F100, so it is now a SWB truck. I have some welding to finish up and then I'll strip the bed and try smoothing the seams. When I made the cut through the bed there was filler on both sides, one side has as much as 3/8" and for the life of me I can't figure out why it is on either side. I have gotten on both side of the metal obviously and don't see a need. The bed side looks a little wavy and the filler just seems to make it worse. I'll get rid of all the filler and see what I have to work with. If everything goes to hell, I can buy new bed sides, but I am going to see what I can do with it first.
I added a plate to the outside of the seam and boxed the inside of the frame. I coated it in POR15 until I break it down and redo the entire frame.
This was much harder than the frame, and as straight as I got it, you find out exactly how straight when you slide back together.
Not perfect by any means but not wavy or warped so I think I can smooth it out.
Yes, it would have been easier to just buy a SWB truck, but where's the fun in that,
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Nice work on that vertical joint
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Just think'in out loud.........
Wonder if the cut had been made closer to the front of the bed box........less chances of warping/weld seam near the curve of the bed and 'if' you messed up welding it would have been less noticeable.
Looks like you did a bang-up-job on the mod.
6s6
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I have done it twice now. Closer to the edge the better.
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Absolutely Sal, and that was the initial plan, things got complicated with where and how the inside of the bed was formed.
I even thought about cutting the inside and outside of the bed at different locations.
The inside of my bed is different than all that I have seen, on the drivers side there is a bump out for the dual fuel tank option, but in mine it’s much wider than others I’ve seen. Long and short of it, this location just made the most since. Added benefit is there was a dent in the passenger side that this cut location eliminated.
Thanks for the comments and support.
Rick
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Did you TIG or MIG weld the body?
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Steve-G
wish I would have had someone to talk it through with, didn’t really find anything on line that gave the whole story and all seemed to leave things out.
I definitely would do some things differently next time, the frame had to obviously shorten but also had to narrow and I wish I would have made the cuts to pull the frame inward differently.
I will be honest, the outer bed cut isn’t warped but it will take some mud work to make unknown.
This whole project would be better the second time around, but I haven’t given up on this one yet.
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All mig, and don’t get me started, I have played with the tig and need to more because that would save grinding time at the very least.
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kardad wrote:
All mig, and don’t get me started, I have played with the tig and need to more because that would save grinding time at the very least.
Yep. I usually burn through a couple times(holes) before I get the settings/technique right. I need to get a TIG and play around with that to see if that's better.
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They make a steel disk to put on a 4-1/2" grinder, think they call it a shrinking disc. I used it on a door with an oil can issue. Lot better control on heat than a torch if you want to work on the warpage with heat and shrinking.it.
The vetical joint does look good though.
Last edited by Alan (5/01/2023 7:54 PM)
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Nice work!
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Real nice work.
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Nice work.
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I was a welder....in another life....
MIG was prolly the best choice because.....although TIG allows you to make smaller beads it also concentrates the heat in one tiny area ! Which can cause warping issues quickly.
Thin metal can be a booger to weld and NOT warp the crap outta it.
Being thin....you can run the puddle/weld down hill and travel a lot faster. This keeps the area from getting sooo hot and warping. "down-hilling" is NOT as strong a weld BUTT....with thin metal you are just seaming it together. (Think about it...how strong does sheetmetal need to be anyway?)
Also.....heat goes to cold. As you weld up hill..the heat is traveling up and up and up plus when you stop welding is the hottest spot.
IF you run it down hill...you are welding AWAY from the heat. And you can weld/travel alot faster too...(away from the heat)
Ya gotta have a jaw full of chewing tobacco to make a decent looking weld though...(sorry all you little girlies!!)
6sally6
Last edited by 6sally6 (5/02/2023 2:06 PM)
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Great work. I would like to build a truck one day, and it would have to be a short bed.
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6sally6 wrote:
I was a welder....in another life....
MIG was prolly the best choice because.....although TIG allows you to make smaller beads it also concentrates the heat in one tiny area ! Which can cause warping issues quickly.
Thin metal can be a booger to weld and NOT warp the crap outta it.
Being thin....you can run the puddle/weld down hill and travel a lot faster. This keeps the area from getting sooo hot and warping. "down-hilling" is NOT as strong a weld BUTT....with thin metal you are just seaming it together. (Think about it...how strong does sheetmetal need to be anyway?)
Also.....heat goes to cold. As you weld up hill..the heat is traveling up and up and up plus when you stop welding is the hottest spot.
IF you run it down hill...you are welding AWAY from the heat. And you can weld/travel alot faster too...(away from the heat)
Ya gotta have a jaw full of chewing tobacco to make a decent looking weld though...(sorry all you little girlies!!)
6sally6
I could not agree more Sal. Specially bout the chewing part.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
6sally6 wrote:
I was a welder....in another life....
MIG was prolly the best choice because.....although TIG allows you to make smaller beads it also concentrates the heat in one tiny area ! Which can cause warping issues quickly.
Thin metal can be a booger to weld and NOT warp the crap outta it.
Being thin....you can run the puddle/weld down hill and travel a lot faster. This keeps the area from getting sooo hot and warping. "down-hilling" is NOT as strong a weld BUTT....with thin metal you are just seaming it together. (Think about it...how strong does sheetmetal need to be anyway?)
Also.....heat goes to cold. As you weld up hill..the heat is traveling up and up and up plus when you stop welding is the hottest spot.
IF you run it down hill...you are welding AWAY from the heat. And you can weld/travel alot faster too...(away from the heat)
Ya gotta have a jaw full of chewing tobacco to make a decent looking weld though...(sorry all you little girlies!!)
6sally6
I could not agree more Sal. Specially bout the chewing part.
Spitt'in the chew on the weld cools it down?
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Welding sheetmetsl involves alot of tiny welds rather than running a bead to keep the panel from warping. Let each one cool or wet it with cold water and a rag before doing subsequent welds.
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Your truck is looking great!
Interestingly enough, MustangSteve just finished prototyping a modified knuckle that will fit the S550 brakes (including 15" 6-piston Brembos) on a Crown Vic front suspension. It's not posted on the site yet, but if you're interested in getting more information, let me know.
Last edited by Brian (5/04/2023 4:48 AM)
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