Dont worrry I know what yall are gonna notic its not level on there. Yes I know. Its also on its casters to roll the chassics jig around. I was hoping I would be able to mount mty car to day and get it inside the garage. I wasnt able to push the chassis jig it was a little heavy plug I was worried with that one mount flexing. So tbat will be the first thing ill try and address tomorrow. I also started thinking before I had removed the rear end. That maybe if I remove the rear end since its a good majority of the weight thats left in the car. Maybe its will make it easier for me to get the chassis jig to roll once the rear end weight is out of the car. So I went for the goods and removed the rear end. It came out smoothly. Ill have to address the front leaf spring bolts tbat are frozen that was anticipated. Also when I was drilling out some holes to make the scissor jacks mounts bolt on. I got Kinda sick of that just tacked everything in place. When doing the drilling though I didnt think about what did when I rolled my car forward then backward on the ramps before raising  the car up off the ramp. I must have not got it correct. Its a lil off set from center in the front at least it looks like it. Ill have to measure to confirm. Its pretty close though.

Last edited by True74yamaha (7/23/2023 9:21 PM)

There are a few fhings that need to be taken care of. Before the engine drive train can be installed. I have to fix my floor boards. Rear seat section patches and front drivers side toe board before the firewall. A friend of mine his dad welded in a floor board and partial firewall patch. I have to remove his old work as he welded in the floor pan over tbe old crap that was on top of the frame rail.  The other issue id the firewall patch didnt get installed 100% correct so there is a gap between the floor support and the floor pan. I can almost  fit my hand between the floor and the floor support. This is one area that will need to be fixed. When I fix the drivers side I plan on adding in front torque boxes. My right side firewall below the heater box is pitted so Ill remove the bad section install the right torque box and then weld in a new patch section. I was dedating on if it be smart to get a new firewall. Im still debating that one over in my head. I plan on keeping my original floor pan and repairing it. I dont have the means to buy a new 1pc floor pan so im gonna work with what I have. I need to clean out my inner rocker panels. So that will be one other task here in the future. I plan on just cutting sections of the outter top section then sand blast and clean the inside. Wire wheel the in side to prep after sand blasting clean the steel and then primer the inside of the rockers. Then ill weld back on the inner rocker top. The rear end needed to be removed so I can cut out and repair both my rear frame rail rear sections. They are both rusted out. I also have to repair the A pillars on the car as well.  I could maybe leave the front suspension but. I really wanna just remove it all. Then I can sand blast behind the coil springs and also behind and below the upper control arms. I wanna clean out the shim catcher tray. Then while suspension is out I was thinking abojt having the the coil springs upper and lower control arms spring perches sway bar sway bar end link rear axle housing front MS Brake bracket. I was thinking having all these powder coated.
This way all the suspension matches and looks nice when its installwd on the car. I maybe will convert to the front coil over front suspension kit that mounts the coil over the the LCA. That would be in the future though. I also would like a watts link in the rear with 4 bars. All of that hardware and suspension parts like Powder coated as well.
I also have a AOD and an AODE i was given for free. I was thinking about installing tbe OD transmission. Ive also been on the look out for the new 6 speed and 10-12 speed transmission controllers that are designed to work with a carburated engine and controll the electronic transmission. I think it be cool to have tbe new 10 speed behind a 289 engine. So far the company makes a controller for the 6 speed transmissions that almost make them similar to performance of the 10 speed. You can choose your shift points set them at whatever rpm. Pretty neat. I also havent gone through the rear axle. So that will be another small side project

Last edited by True74yamaha (7/24/2023 10:54 AM)

6sally6 wrote:

Why-knott loose the entire front suspension (and TOWERS!) and go MII or something along those lines?
It amazes me the amount of room under the hood when that mod is done!!
Jus say'in.......
6s6

Why was bash 8 canceled?
 
I have  contemplated going through with that surgery. I still havent decided to take that big plunge and go through with that though. I have thought about if I did Id maybe buy a 5.8l out of a new truck then make it look like a fuel injected BOSS 351. Get some magnum 500 wheels. I so llive in the wrong time my guys. I wouldve loved to of owned this car new. Then who knows I peobably wouldve ended up a day 2 car. Wouls be cool to still have your original car from in the 60s. The new engines just arent pretty like engines of the past. Now engines are trying to be phased out. Did anyone here see the google post that had the new engine?? It has no cam it has no crankshaft. It has llike 6 pistons and they move around on a cam plate id call it. The cam plate tells the engine its timing as the plates as lobes to it that inturn let fuel into the combustion chamber. Its alos a 1 stroke engine. They have a wopping 130 ish hp.

I just saw a version of magnum 500s  from  stang aholics I like. But if I remember correctly it was to big imo for a 1965 believe it was a 18x7. I think there are a few other magnum 500 wheels out there. I would need some to clear my MS GT brake Set up. I have a nice set of wheels already. Just kinda neat some of the new wheel options out there besides the traditional torq thrust 17x8 that it seems alot of Mustangs Run. I dont mind them. Theres just so many of them.  I like the modifed bullet wheels on MS fastback those are perfect.

Jus a lil sump'in-sump'in to make ya wish you grew up when I did !!

THIS^^^ would drop right in with NO shock towers BTW.
Put one of these in your Mustang and you would NEVER need to do anything to it EVER again.....
well almost never.
6sally6

Last edited by 6sally6 (7/25/2023 5:39 PM)

6sally6 wrote:

Jus a lil sump'in-sump'in to make ya wish you grew up when I did !!

THIS^^^ would drop right in with NO shock towers BTW.
Put one of these in your Mustang and you would NEVER need to do anything to it EVER again.....
well almost never.
6sally6

 
Dang I wouldnt mind habing that in there. I wonder how tight that would be with towers? I seen a guy on face book install a 460 in a 1965. He said he only slightly notched the towers. Makes me wonder how bad header or exhaust manifold clearance would be. Im sure horrible with towers in there. I wonder if using later towers would be any benefit for engine swaps. The Australian guy that did the work on the 65 pictured above. Installed custom 1969 mustang towers to gain LCA adjustment.  I wonder if later towers are maybe smaller due to accomodate the big block engines? Those are unique transmission shifters. Is that real?

https://youtu.be/BfPoAUdvswQ?t=308

Good demo of a Lenco tranny !
Although it's a 'Shivel-lay' still a good demo of the Lenco-shifter-boogie !
No clutch envolved except when leaving from a dead stop. (watch the tach needle when he shifts)
6sal6

MS wrote:

Just curious….
Did you align the jig to the car BEFORE you cut the car apart?

Yes I did. I figured out all my dimensions. Then cut the material. Built the jig base tacked it together. Then slid it under the car centered it made sure it would fit nice. Then slide the jig back out and welded it together and added my casters and these all threads to the corners and middle  for leveling. I now have removed the all threads and now replaced with sicssor jacks. I realize in a perfect world the car shouldve been on the jig when before I cut the car apart. I was mainly worried about when I cut out the floor. So ive waited to do that part until my jig is ready. Im confident with all that I have removed, that nothing has really has moved. I have my trunk cross member it fits like a glove right now. Same with the transition floor panel trunks sides and wheelhouses. I also installed my fuel tank to check fitment.
Im sure youve noticed in the photos in the thread the car is not centered on the jig. This was a fault on my hand. I have to center my car. I was in a rush. It was about to rain all over my car. So I hurried and and set the car on the jig. I know its Halfaxx but im glad I got my car in it hailed and rained.

Last edited by True74yamaha (7/27/2023 5:52 PM)

I would be concerned that all the welding after removing the car might (will) induce warpage in the jig. Hopefully it stayed straight.  A big weldment like that jig can really change shape on you. 
Hopefully it is straight and you can build that car back like you want it to be.  Looks like you will have a blast putting it back together and will certainly achieve great satisfaction from your efforts when you get it to the point the loud pedal can be activated.

Got my cars jig all level. Levels out really nicely. I used 2 different levels one was a 2ft level at each door jamb i had a 4ft empire digital readout level that I used to level out the jig base. It also worked to be placed at the card package tray to level I also laid it on the tops of each fender apron ensuring level at bith front and the back of the car, as well as level at each side of the car. The car with the rear axle housing removed and resting on only 4 jacks that are mounted under each jack mount at the rockers. You could see thr car front end sitting a lil low. I placed a RV leveler under the radiator support and that was the answer in leveling the car. I also was abled to lift the car up an shimmy it getting it perfectly centered on the chassis jig. I used a tripod laser level to confirm the car being centered  on the jig.
   Now im  needing to make my vertical upright mounts for chassis jig. Ill now be able to use my jig top as a datum line reference. So now I can measure down to my jig top from an attachment point on my car and I should get very accurate measurements then its securly mounting the car to the new mounts after they are made. I could make my  front mounts mount under the sway mounts or on the front bumper mounts. Im debating material tickness to use for my mount for the front bumper mounts. I have a bunch of 1/8"  x 3" strap but its probably not beefy enough for the Bumper mount. I think with using 2x2 1/8" square tube for up rights under the sway bay mount with a welded on 1/8" thick welded on top plate that then I use some bolts should be sufficient up front for a good first mount. Also gives me a solid mount that I can use the keep my car mounted nicely when I repair the front Frame rail by the front Bumper mount Location. Now all I should need to do for my uprights is measure from my car down to my Chassis jig and if I can come straight down with my  vertical upright mounts making only a post that slides right under the car and between the jig I can then tack weld it in place or make a mount that is a bolt on solid attachment.

Last edited by True74yamaha (8/06/2023 3:07 PM)

I thought I replaced a lot of metal on my project.  You have me beat.  Looks like you’re doing great work too!!!

Could someone  please measure the front center width of the leaf springs for a 1967-68 mustang. Im also looking for the same measurements on 69-70 and 71-73 mustangs. I need to make some front a rear upright mounts to for my jig. I have my car resting above my jig right now on a few RV levelers. Im honestly surprised with what all is removed that there isnt more flex going on.




To help me level out  both my jig and my car Im using a 48" digital empire Level I borrowed.I plan on buying the 24" and the 48" Empire magnetic digital box beam levels.The digital 16" empire level would come in handy on some sections after my braces get bolted on tacked on. Makes it hard to level out the jig after some braces get put in place like under the control arms. These levels aren't a necessity but make it the one did make life easier when leveling the fender aprons or the package tray due to the level being so far away for me being short it makes it nice to see the gauge on the level and the blue sight glass when im adjusting the Jacks under the car.