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Anybody using Silicone(Dot5) brake fluid in their old Ford vehicles?
If you are: Did you just bleed the old fluid out or did you use some kind of a fush?
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No, using DOT3.
There is info out there (Google) on the pluses and minuses of using the different DOT brake fluid types for various applications.
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BobE wrote:
No, using DOT3.
There is info out there (Google) on the pluses and minuses of using the different DOT brake fluid types for various applications.
I think I read them all. Lots of misinformation out there. I was just wondering if anybody actually switched over to Dot 5 here.
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Never saw any reason to complicate things…
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I put 100 % new brake components in my car years ago when I converted to 4 wheel disks. That included master cylinder, 4 calipers, line lock, propo valve, stainless steel lines and flexible ones etc.
Not wanting to ruin the engine bay re-do I used Dot 5 with no regrets.
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This is what regular brake fluid did to my rear driver side apron.
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Rudi wrote:
I put 100 % new brake components in my car years ago when I converted to 4 wheel disks. That included master cylinder, 4 calipers, line lock, propo valve, stainless steel lines and flexible ones etc.
Not wanting to ruin the engine bay re-do I used Dot 5 with no regrets.
That is why I want to switch brake fluids. I'm always moving/changing things around with the brakes and I always seem to create a small leak that gets unnoticed until I see damaged paint. Why is brake fluid made that way in the first place.
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Since I don’t autocross or road race the Dot 5 10 C lower boiling point is of no concern to me.
Another issue with glycol based brake fluids is that they absorb moisture which causes rust in the brake lines.
Dot 5 is not hygroscopic but moisture can still compromise a leaky system, therefore it should be changed every so often as should regular brake fluid.
So for me, “what’s not to like”
YMMV.
Last edited by Rudi (8/30/2023 7:28 PM)
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Rudi wrote:
Since I don’t autocross or road race the Dot 5 10 C lower boiling point is of no concern to me.
Another issue with glycol based brake fluids is that they absorb moisture which causes rust in the brake lines.
Dot 5 is not hygroscopic but moisture can still compromise a leaky system, therefore it should be changed every so often as should regular brake fluid.
So for me, “what’s not to like”
YMMV.
I got tired of all the erroneous numbers being thrown around on the racing websites about boiling points. So I looked directly at the mfg. websites. Motor Medic: Dot 5 dry 500deg F, their Dot 4 dry 446deg F, their Dot 3 dry 401deg F.
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Some Dot 5 users have stated that the brake pedal is a bit spongy.
My neuropathic feet can’t attest to that , seems the same as my Nautilus’s .
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Rudi wrote:
Some Dot 5 users have stated that the brake pedal is a bit spongy.
My neuropathic feet can’t attest to that , seems the same as my Nautilus’s .
I saw that on some/all of the websites. Many claims made about the compressibility. Everybody has something to say.
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My biggest question was, why don't OEMs use it? The only company I know that uses it OEM is Harley Davidson. Now, expense may play a role, as its about twice the cost of DOT 3/4 fluid. However, there are other reasons why they probably don't.
1.) DOT 5 is very susceptible to aeration. Even just the simple act of pouring it tends to introduce bubbles. Now, if you let it sit long enough the bubbles will go away, but who has that kind of time? This is a huge reason why the OEMs aren't using it, and why its not popular in racing. This is also likely why many note a spongy peal.
2.) Changing over from DOT 3/4 is a chore. The two fluids are completely incompatible, so you have to make sure no traces of the old fluid remain. Done right this means disassembling everything and cleaning all seals, etc. with alcohol before coating them in DOT 5 and reassembling. Soft brake hoses should just be replaced. Hard lines need to be flushed with alcohol.
3.) Not applicable to our older vehicles, but DOT 5 is not compatible with ABS systems. I've read this has to do with the lack of lubricity in the fluid compared to DOT 3/4.
It seems there are a lot of guys who have switched and love it, and a lot of guys who tried it, hated it, and switched back. Personally I just bleed my systems through every 2-3 years with regular old DOT 3. Doing this my 21 year old Subaru still has all its original calipers and master cylinder and stops better than most of the cars I've ever driven. To me, I don't need to go creating problems trying to "fix" one. A couple of strategically placed rags when filling and a can of Brake Kleen handy has prevented any paint issues for me.
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Kind of a backhanded comment here.
The brake fluid never eats up your paint if you keep it off the paint.
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MS wrote:
Kind of a backhanded comment here.
The brake fluid never eats up your paint if you keep it off the paint.
Also.....I wonder if.....you filled a pump up sprayer with Dot3 could you use it as a paint stripper !!?
6s6
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My philosophy is that if $#lts gonna happen . . . . It will happen to me first!
Best to plan ahead and try to eliminate those possibilities.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |