Just goes to show just about anything can be made if someone wants it bad enough.

I saw this yesterday.  I also saw the price point.  $2500.     I would guess that would go down somewhat if it catches on.   

The merits depend on whether or not you view the dropout case as a benefit.  Most of the rears I have worked on, and most of those I own are not drop outs.  To me, this may be of benefit to a professional racer where this manages to satisfy the requirement of an original equipment rear in a car that had the 8.8 from the factory.  Beyond that, if you are starting from scratch a 9" is far cheaper to build.  To me a dropout only makes life easier if you don't have a lift.  Doing gear setup on a non dropout with a lift is easy as pie.  Crawling around on the ground its a PITA. 

In my experience gear whine in most rears is caused by one of 3 things:

1.) cheap gears
2.) improperly set up gears
3.) a tweaked housing from a previous failure where there is too much runout of the carrier
 

MS…did you read this article as well?

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how_to_build_a_custom_ford_9-inch_center_section_with_gearfx_driveline/



I noticed the part about the yoke runout causing vibration issues.

Last edited by Nos681 (10/18/2023 7:48 PM)

Guess I got lucky at a swap meet when I found a local guy who builds rear ends. He had exactly what I was looking for - 9 inch 3.25  Trac-Lok with Mopar spring perches welded on to fit my 68 width. It has been quiet and trouble free for over 12 years now.
I like the aircraft quality safety job on that rear end - .032 wire - 28 turns per inch - nice.  Even bent the cutoff ends in so no one gets poked in the finger.
 

Ron68 wrote:

Guess I got lucky at a swap meet when I found a local guy who builds rear ends. He had exactly what I was looking for - 9 inch 3.25  Trac-Lok with Mopar spring perches welded on to fit my 68 width. It has been quiet and trouble free for over 12 years now.
I like the aircraft quality safety job on that rear end - .032 wire - 28 turns per inch - nice.  Even bent the cutoff ends in so no one gets poked in the finger.
 

What bolts were safety wired?  Bolts coming loose has never been an issue on any I have owned.

MS wrote:

Ron68 wrote:

Guess I got lucky at a swap meet when I found a local guy who builds rear ends. He had exactly what I was looking for - 9 inch 3.25  Trac-Lok with Mopar spring perches welded on to fit my 68 width. It has been quiet and trouble free for over 12 years now.
I like the aircraft quality safety job on that rear end - .032 wire - 28 turns per inch - nice.  Even bent the cutoff ends in so no one gets poked in the finger.
 

What bolts were safety wired? Bolts coming loose has never been an issue on any I have owned.

The link on the first posting https://www.holley.com/blog/post/rear-end_game_changer_new_8_8-inch_dropout_case/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=motor+life&fbclid=IwAR3CHGwlGHif9jJueYioMpOdGWjKpHnPFq6ltxEpeJLSS7a8sYAZbhnq7zY

 

Much better than the Speedway in my 69.  They used those gold colored hardware store washers for some unknown reason. Those things are soft and were deformed. I have no faith they will stay put, but I bet those safety wired bolts hang on.

Mmm...safety war.



PS:  Ron, don't count the twists per inch.

Last edited by RPM, aka Bearing Bob (10/20/2023 9:22 AM)

TKOPerformance wrote:

I've always used red Locktite after cleaning the bolts and bolt holes thoroughly with Brakekleen.  New had an issue.  However, safety wire is really never a bad idea.  I always safety wire the oil pump and oil pump pickup bolts in any engine build.  A 1/16" cobalt bit will drill even an ARP bolt if you take your time. 

Total waste of time.  Torque the bolts and move on.

TKOPerformance wrote:

MS wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

I've always used red Locktite after cleaning the bolts and bolt holes thoroughly with Brakekleen.  New had an issue.  However, safety wire is really never a bad idea.  I always safety wire the oil pump and oil pump pickup bolts in any engine build.  A 1/16" cobalt bit will drill even an ARP bolt if you take your time. 

Total waste of time. Torque the bolts and move on.

I agree that the chance is extremely small that anything goes wrong there, and I built engines for years without doing it.  However, in the extremely remote chance a bolt backs out the engine is likely junk before you can say "Oh @#%%!"  For all of about 30 minutes worth of extra work?  My time is very valuable, but not in line with the cost of an engine. 
 

In my opinion, drilling through the head of a 1/4” bolt will lessen its clamping ability.  I have never heard of an oil pump coming apart. Heck, you and I are probably the only people around that even check the torque on those bolts when installing a new pump. Since there is no gasket to compress, you rely on the stretched condition of the bolt to hold the torque.  And they just NEVER back out.
If your logic holds, you should safety wire all the lug nuts on your wheels. They see alot more stress trying to undo the nuts than an oil pump cover would ever see.

MS wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

MS wrote:

Total waste of time. Torque the bolts and move on.

I agree that the chance is extremely small that anything goes wrong there, and I built engines for years without doing it.  However, in the extremely remote chance a bolt backs out the engine is likely junk before you can say "Oh @#%%!"  For all of about 30 minutes worth of extra work?  My time is very valuable, but not in line with the cost of an engine. 
 

In my opinion, drilling through the head of a 1/4” bolt will lessen its clamping ability. I have never heard of an oil pump coming apart. Heck, you and I are probably the only people around that even check the torque on those bolts when installing a new pump. Since there is no gasket to compress, you rely on the stretched condition of the bolt to hold the torque. And they just NEVER back out.
If your logic holds, you should safety wire all the lug nuts on your wheels. They see alot more stress trying to undo the nuts than an oil pump cover would ever see.

Difference is that I rotate my tires periodically and torque the lug nuts.  I don't ever drop the oil pan and check those pump bolts.  Heh, you are probably right about us being the only people who actually check the torque though..
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

MS wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

I agree that the chance is extremely small that anything goes wrong there, and I built engines for years without doing it.  However, in the extremely remote chance a bolt backs out the engine is likely junk before you can say "Oh @#%%!"  For all of about 30 minutes worth of extra work?  My time is very valuable, but not in line with the cost of an engine. 
 

In my opinion, drilling through the head of a 1/4” bolt will lessen its clamping ability. I have never heard of an oil pump coming apart. Heck, you and I are probably the only people around that even check the torque on those bolts when installing a new pump. Since there is no gasket to compress, you rely on the stretched condition of the bolt to hold the torque. And they just NEVER back out.
If your logic holds, you should safety wire all the lug nuts on your wheels. They see alot more stress trying to undo the nuts than an oil pump cover would ever see.

Difference is that I rotate my tires periodically and torque the lug nuts.  I don't ever drop the oil pan and check those pump bolts.  Heh, you are probably right about us being the only people who actually check the torque though..
 

Ok, then… what about your rod bolts and main cap bolts?  And especially the cam thrust plate bolts?
Those never get wired.  I have heard of rod bolts letting loose, but usually the failure is along the parting line. Cam thrust plate gets slot of stress.
I still maintain it is a waste of time, especially on an oil pump.  Do you safety wire the bolts from the pump to the block?  Or between pickup and pump?   And God forbid your fuel pump might rattle loose!