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I have started spraying the Second Skin sound deadener and I must say it lays down very well. The gun is super easy to clean with the garden hose. Takes longer to tape stuff off and the 40-60 wait between coats. I finished one door and fender and I’m about to spray the second coat on the other door and fender.
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Decided to get the inner fenders done. One more and it’ll be finished.
image uploader
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Just a comment on that tightly rolled over fender lip. If you don’t fill it solid with seam sealer, it will trap dirt and moisture and cause premature rusting.
I formed mine with a 1/4” gap so they could drain.
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MS wrote:
Just a comment on that tightly rolled over fender lip. If you don’t fill it solid with seam sealer, it will trap dirt and moisture and cause premature rusting.
I formed mine with a 1/4” gap so they could drain.
I have a good habit of pouring my left over epoxy primer in all of the tight places. I catch the extra draining out and pour back in again or in a different spot. But still a valid point no matter what I have done. Maybe I’ll brush the sound deadener in there to seal it up tight.
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That sound deadener looks like paint on bed liner. Is it like a bed liner material or more like an under-body coating rubber material? (just curious)
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Rufus68 wrote:
That sound deadener looks like paint on bed liner. Is it like a bed liner material or more like an under-body coating rubber material? (just curious)
Yes it’s like a bed liner but nearly as thick. It is a rubber based product and can be applied from 1mm to 5mm. I did two coats so roughly 2mm. I did spray it a little heavier on the underside of the top of the fender to help prevent rocks from damaging the fender when driving it. There is a difference in products and they are all not the same. I choose Second Skin after reading up on a few different options. I also bought the Thermal barrier spray product to use on the roof, firewall and the floor.
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I started this yesterday late in the day and the cooler weather forced me to stop for the night so the first coat could dry. It was well above the recommended 50 degrees but the damp rainy weather didn’t help. Today I finished the rook and inside of the firewall. Between coats drying I installed the aluminum pedal plates and sanded the brake pedal assembly that I had coated with OSPHO the day before. Then started sanding the engine bay to get it ready for paint.
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Program them pedals yourself?
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Alan wrote:
Program them pedals yourself?
No I don’t have access to that kind of stuff anymore. Plus it’s been years since I’ve written any cnc programs. I believe I bought these from Mustangs to Fear.
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I've wanted to remove the stock rubber pads and weld on some expanded metal to give it that racer look. But I'm concerned how any metal pads would be friction wise with wet soles on shoes.
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RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:
I've wanted to remove the stock rubber pads and weld on some expanded metal to give it that racer look. But I'm concerned how any metal pads would be friction wise with wet soles on shoes.
That’s crossed my mind. If it becomes an issue, I’ll just get some grip tape that they use on skate boards and put little strips on the raised part of the pedal pad. I don’t plan on driving in the rain but we do get radon storms in the summer time.
I could always drill and tap the pads along the raised section and install some set screws for traction.
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I still have low spots in my chins from my youthful bmx days. I can’t tell you how many times I chewed up my chins from pedals.
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