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After looking at some interior pictures of 03 mustangs it appears the e brake should be a little more forward. If I move it forward to where it looks like it should be based on the pictures I looked at then the cables will be pretty much perfect. It’s about 7 inches forward of where I first laid out the location. I did ask the seller that’s cutting out the floor from the parts car to measure the distance from the shifter to the e brake. The only bad part is I’ll be cutting into the top convertible seat pan over the trans tunnel.
I cut the rear package tray to fit around the rear roll bar and got the brackets welded in for the rear bottom seat frame. I had some other little areas that needed some finish welding. Cleaned the garage a little so I can move around. Started to figure out how to route the gas line around the SoT setup. Not a lot of progress but I did have to visit two hospitals this morning for post op checks.
Might try to spray some undercoating tomorrow.
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Could you document the measurements with reference to the stock transmission opening?
Perhaps the 2 rear most holes…straight back and diagonally?
I have considered doing the same.
However, I want to keep my factory original a/c center console.
Just gathering ideas of how and where to place it.
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Nos681 wrote:
Could you document the measurements with reference to the stock transmission opening?
Perhaps the 2 rear most holes…straight back and diagonally?
I have considered doing the same.
However, I want to keep my factory original a/c center console.
Just gathering ideas of how and where to place it.
Absolutely I will in this thread and over in my build thread on VMF. I really think the cable length will be perfect.
Sadly the seller messaged me and will not have it cut out this weekend. Which is okay because I shouldn’t be driving that far when I’m on-call for work. To add to the delay we will be out of town next weekend.
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Not a good start to my Saturday e-brake project. The 96 e-brake is different than the 03 cobra. I could make it work but I would rather perform this mod with all the correct matching pieces from the same model/years that match.
The good news, I think it’s going to be a pretty straightforward modification with no need to graph the late model tunnel section to the 66 tunnel. I will simple remove the brackets from the newer tunnel and weld them to the 66 tunnel. Just need to cut the small hole in the floor.
The E-brake does land on top of the convertible inner seat pan. I’ll need to notch it as well but only to clear the base of the handle. The 03 handle has a larger diameter cable circumference where the cable wraps around when it’s pulled. The cable end of the 03 handle is also longer than the 96.
I posted a want ad and the same seller I bought the 03 handle from responded to my want ad.
I can’t upload pictures. Not sure what’s wrong or has changed.
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Will you still have clearance to the transmission tail shaft?
Referring to the wheel on brake handle.
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Will you still have clearance to the transmission tail shaft?
Referring to the wheel on brake handle.
BTW, what is CL of wheel to end of brake handle?
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The shifter will clear the tail shaft of the transmission. I did get a rough measurement from the center of the shifter to the first bolt hole in the base of the handle. With that it should provide more than enough clearance.
The distance from the end of the handle is 12.5”.
If someone was running the rear brakes from a 96 then the parts I have would work.
Today it looks like I can load pictures. You can see the difference in the handles. The 03 has a longer cable and a larger diameter where the cable wraps around. The base is longer on the 03 as well. You can also see the two pieces that mount to the bottom of the tunnel. These two pieces will be easy to install with no tunnel sectioning.
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Are the “front cables” interchangeable?
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Nos681 wrote:
Are the “front cables” interchangeable?
You can remove the cable from the E-brake handle. I think the spring may have to be unwound in order to change/swap them.
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I seriously doubt that Ford engineers would make it that complicated.
Might have to clock in certain position to remove the cables.
Worst case, modify it with the crimp on stops to make it shorter.
Put 2 on for peace of mind and greater clamping…could even place a flat washer on first to prevent pull through depending on size of barrel stops.
Found this article:
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Nos681 (12/17/2023 12:15 PM)
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Nos681 wrote:
I seriously doubt that Ford engineers would make it that complicated.
Might have to clock in certain position to remove the cables.
Worst case, modify it with the crimp on stops to make it shorter.
Put 2 on for peace of mind and greater clamping…could even place a flat washer on first to prevent pull through depending on size of barrel stops.
Found this article:
Hope this helps.
I watched a video a while back when looking to see how the floor was modified and recall the person having trouble with the spring when he changed the cable. My focus was more on the floor modifications than the cable.
I kind of figured your thought process was to install the shorter cable. Yes this could take up some slack if the e-brambles are too long. What I don’t know is if the amount of travel in the cable would be enough to apply full lock of the e-brake. I’ll measure the amount of pull/travel of each handle to see if one could use the shorter cable.
My first attempt at installing the handle I had extra cable length but after I realized the handle is suppose to be more forward, I think the cable length is going to be just about right. I’ll check all of this prior to cutting any holes in the floor.
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Good point about cable travel when applying the brakes.
Have you looked at smaller cars like the Escort for brake cables?
I found the late model Mustang cables were too long. I wanted to use the factory cable brackets in the tunnel.
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Nos681 wrote:
Good point about cable travel when applying the brakes.
Have you looked at smaller cars like the Escort for brake cables?
I found the late model Mustang cables were too long. I wanted to use the factory cable brackets in the tunnel.
I don’t think I’ll need shorter cables with the handle moved forward from where I thought it should go. Even at that location I could route the cables in a way that they should work.
I got so busy in the garage today I forgot to measure the difference in travel between the 96 and 03 handles.
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No pictures yet but me and my son just got back from the local pull it yard. Only took about 10-15 minutes to remove the console and cut the section of the tunnel that I needed.
Our son surprised us by showing up this morning. He never told us he was getting leave before he ships out for two years. Not sure how much work will get done on the mustang because he comes first.
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Started on this yesterday after my to do list was done. I ended up stopping a little earlier than I wanted due to cutting my finger. Was more upset than hurt but figured that was a sign to walk away.
Today I got the main piece welded in and the cable mounting bracket tac welded in place. I was expecting the cables to simple fall into place but they look 1/2 short. I know my measurement is correct and I believe the cables have to be connected last at the calipers with no slack and if anything a preload. I be connecting the cable at the caliper is a bear.
Anyways here’s a few pictures of where I’m at. I’m not sure if I want to weld a flat piece from the convertible floor brace or cut and trim so it tapers back to the floor. Leaning towards a flat on top.
Neither bracket matched the 65/66 tunnel. A little hammer and dolly worked them into the curve. So far I think this is a pretty straight forward modification.
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Since this is the post I last updated the e brake installation I figured I would report that today I installed the calipers and rotors for the last time and the e brake works great. I spent a little more looking at how the e brake cables and hard lines were run underneath and figured out that by zip tiring the cables together they now do not come in contact with the hard lines in the tunnel area.
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I couldn’t leave it alone. I decided to cut the brackets bringing closer to the frame. The tire barely rubs the line and I’m sure I could bend the line a little more. I won’t bend the line any more until I get the new rims. This test fit is with the 17x8 and a BS of 6.6”. New rims are 17x7 with 4”BS. I think I’ll be safe with this setup. Picture is of full weight on the front suspension.
The two pictures of the flexible line with no hardline are of the passenger side just showing the shortened bracket. The tire and hardline picture is of the drivers with it all together.
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RTM wrote:
I couldn’t leave it alone.
I had the same problem when I was getting the car back together. Some stuff got done once, some of it 3 times..... If I didn't like it, it didn't stay. That mindset did calm down some once I was able to drive it.
Its looking good.
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