| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
with the pedestal roller rockers what length push rod checker do I need thinking mine may be too short. They are standard from a explorer and now it has differnt cam and 1.6 pedstal roller rockers.
Offline
You'll probably do best by using an adjustable push rod to determine the proper length. I have two that I'll be happy to loan you for the cost of shipping. A 12" digital caliper from HF will easily give you the length you need to order. Summit will likely have something in stock that will will be close enough to your measurement.
Let me know.
Last edited by Bullet Bob (4/02/2024 6:38 PM)
Offline
BILLY,
You need to use that vacuum gauge to see if your pushrods are adjusted or not before you go ripping into stuff that might be just fine as-is
Offline
1.6 is the stock rocker ratio. They used 1.72s on the Cobras with the same pushrods as the GTs. The cam would probably have to be huge to make a real difference. If this is a new engine build then its probably worth checking, but IME pushrod length is affected most by decking the block and/or heads. Aftermarket heads, different thickness HG, etc. can all make a difference. If none of that's been done/changed I doubt you need different length pushrods.
Also, you'll need a solid lifter to check length. A hydraulic will just collapse as you try to pattern the valve stem tip.
Offline
I would be willing to bet the length is fine. Especially if they have be torqued down and the engine runs fine. If so I wouldn’t worry. Buy it would be fairly easy to remove a valve cover and mark the valve stem and check it.
Offline
If you have a tap and die set you can make one out of an old pushrod, but the size you would need is like 11 bucks on Amazon. The easiest ones to use are basically a rod cut with a threaded rod inside. Thread lock on one side, and a jamb nut on the other side. Get your length, then measure with the 12" caliper BB mentioned .
I had to order custom pushrods for the reduced base circle cam I used.
If I remember correctly, 5.0 pushrods were 6.200 stock? Anyways, just Google it. If you have already ran the engine, it's another can of worms, because you will need those lifters to bleed down to do it correctly. (Preload). Your best bet if you think there is a problem is finding a mech that REALLY knows what they are doing.
Offline
My suggestion in Billy’s case…
Remove valve cover.
Put #1 at TDC.
Back off the rocker bolt until loose.
Adjust to zero lash using fingers to feel the pushrod’s resistance to spinning.
Tighten one-half turn.
Did the bolt torque down properly? If so, you are done. If not, try tightening 3/4 turn. Did it torque down? If so, also done
If still loose, then you need to mark the valve tops and see the pattern. Determine if too short or too long by pattern on valve tip
Offline
MS wrote:
My suggestion in Billy’s case…
Remove valve cover.
Put #1 at TDC.
Back off the rocker bolt until loose.
Adjust to zero lash using fingers to feel the pushrod’s resistance to spinning.
Tighten one-half turn.
Did the bolt torque down properly? If so, you are done. If not, try tightening 3/4 turn. Did it torque down? If so, also done
If still loose, then you need to mark the valve tops and see the pattern. Determine if too short or too long by pattern on valve tip
I would add when at 'zero lash' to verify the rocker arm tip is close to being centered on the valve stem.
Offline
I am gonna get it by somewhere that knows the roller engines...I actually know a guy that had a shop I think he still does that was a certified SVT mechanic when all the Cobras and SVT vehicles were new in the 90's. He should know a lot about all the roller rockers and stuff.
Offline
Not knocking the guy, but typically guys that “were Ford mechanics for 30 years” are really good at bolting factory stuff back together but are not necessarily adept at modifying anything.
Offline
MS wrote:
Not knocking the guy, but typically guys that “were Ford mechanics for 30 years” are really good at bolting factory stuff back together but are not necessarily adept at modifying anything.
Completely agree.
Offline
TKOPerformance wrote:
MS wrote:
Not knocking the guy, but typically guys that “were Ford mechanics for 30 years” are really good at bolting factory stuff back together but are not necessarily adept at modifying anything.
Completely agree.
Yep!
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |