That is an odd one for sure. I had a hunting partner that had a Ford F-350 (older one) that had his transmission start shifting very oddly while we were hunting. His interior lights stopped working also. We stopped at a friend's place who had a computer. I did a search about his trans shifting issues. One poster said that to check if his interior lights were working on not. Turned out that the same fuse for the interior lights also supplied power to the transmission control module. Checked and found the fuse blown. Installed new fuse - lights and transmission worked fine.

First, when the battery light comes on it typically means the alternator is failing, not the battery.  Its always a good idea to charge and then load test the battery, but IME the culprit has always been the alternator. 

Second, the degree of electrical complexity in these newer vehicles means that there are often electrical gremlins, especially as they age.  I had an issue in my '06 F250 where the radio stopped working, then the gauges started reading funny, and finally the transmission was acting up.  I researched it and tracked it to the instrument cluster.  I overnighted it to a place that fixes them and offers a warranty.  Got it back, installed it, and the problem was 100% solved.  !@#$ing lead free solder is the problem.  Over time solder joints crack and fail because the lead free stuff isn't flexible enough.  My advice is any time you get a CEL of other light come on start with a Google search.  Fortunately most issues are common and its easy to find the culprit thanks to various forums. 
 

BobE the kit eliminates the stock fuse all together.   I agree with you on how it fits just as much as the legs not being able to take the heat.  I really believe something was causing some sort of impedance change or something because of these. 

TKOPerformance one of the potential causes was the cluster.  My scanner suggested it along with the ignition switch and pcm as potential causes.  I spoke to a knowledgeable mechanic and he said the exact same thing you said about the solder not having lead and fails over time.

Started it this morning a let it run for a while and so far so good. 


Now I’m looking for a transfer case for my son’s truck.  The slip yoke bushing came out the back of the t-case.   He comes home in a couple of weeks.  Need to have both trucks working.  Lol

RTM wrote:

BobE the kit eliminates the stock fuse all together. I agree with you on how it fits just as much as the legs not being able to take the heat. I really believe something was causing some sort of impedance change or something because of these.

TKOPerformance one of the potential causes was the cluster. My scanner suggested it along with the ignition switch and pcm as potential causes. I spoke to a knowledgeable mechanic and he said the exact same thing you said about the solder not having lead and fails over time.

Started it this morning a let it run for a while and so far so good.


Now I’m looking for a transfer case for my son’s truck. The slip yoke bushing came out the back of the t-case. He comes home in a couple of weeks. Need to have both trucks working. Lol

What's the year and model of the truck and/or type of t-case?  Is the whole thing trashed or could the rear cover or just the bushing be replaced?  I've got a couple sources for t-case parts I've used over the years.  I'm guessing its a New Process as that's all anyone seems to have used in the past several decades, but what's the number (i.e. NP231, etc.)?

TKOPerformance wrote:

RTM wrote:

BobE the kit eliminates the stock fuse all together. I agree with you on how it fits just as much as the legs not being able to take the heat. I really believe something was causing some sort of impedance change or something because of these.

TKOPerformance one of the potential causes was the cluster. My scanner suggested it along with the ignition switch and pcm as potential causes. I spoke to a knowledgeable mechanic and he said the exact same thing you said about the solder not having lead and fails over time.

Started it this morning a let it run for a while and so far so good.


Now I’m looking for a transfer case for my son’s truck. The slip yoke bushing came out the back of the t-case. He comes home in a couple of weeks. Need to have both trucks working. Lol

What's the year and model of the truck and/or type of t-case?  Is the whole thing trashed or could the rear cover or just the bushing be replaced?  I've got a couple sources for t-case parts I've used over the years.  I'm guessing its a New Process as that's all anyone seems to have used in the past several decades, but what's the number (i.e. NP231, etc.)?

 
I don’t want to even tried to see if I can repair this t-case.  I think it’ll be quicker and easier to just replace it all together.  The local LKQ has two in stock.   There is one for sale locally by an individual for $100 but sadly it appears his son got in a bad accident so I understand why he hasn’t replied back to me. LKQ wants $420.    I found one I could have gotten today but it was $450 plus it would have been 3-4 hours of driving.   I can’t wait till Monday.

2013 F150 5.0 electric shift not all wheel drive.

TKOPerformance, I was just talking to my son and we were asking ourselves the same question.  I bought the truck used at 109k miles and we have owned it for 7-8 years.  We did experience a driveline vibration after installing 4.10 gears.  Rotated the driveshaft 180 degrees and it solved the vibration.  Over 75 mph you can feel that same vibration but at a much lower feeling but it’s there.  I have intended to have the driveshaft rebalanced but never did.  Truck is only driven in the city.  He drove it to school and a year after graduation.  Now it’s been sitting for two years and is hardly driven.


Looking at the bushing it looks like about a third of the outer diameter has a mark that appears to have not been pushed in all the way.  The other 2/3 of the outer bushing surface appears to even show signs of putting like it had water in it. I have not drained the fluid but should be pulling it out of the truck tomorrow.   The inner part of the bearing looks like it had a lack of lubrication  but that could be from falling out.  I’ll inspect the slip yoke and if there’s any marks on it I will be able to determine how deep it was on the slip yoke and if that’s where the bushing is press in or not.

Here’s a picture.  Now that I’m thinking about it.   The water marks could be just from being on the outside if the transfer case.  We he was home after boot camp we noticed what looked like melted rubber on the driveway.  We couldn’t figure out what it was from. I now believe it was the rear seal melting for the bushing falling out.

TKOPerformance wrote:

I'd clean everything up and slam a new bushing and seal in it, coating the bushing in red Locktite.  It should be a light press fit, easily driven in with a bushing driver and hammer.  Definitely drain the fluid.  To me it shows signs of water contamination.  T-cases almost never get serviced, so it could just be a lot of condensation from a long time.  What did the gear oil look like in the rear?  Did you service the front diff as well?

 
Fluid looks like it’s had water in it and it had to be from before I bought.  I don’t think it’s worth messing with.   The skip yoke has some damage on it from the bushing.   

So now I’m stuck looking at a Dorman replacement driveshaft for $308 or buy a new ford slip yoke for $130 plus buy u-joints and maybe have it balanced.   Ugh

Only took 90 minutes to remove it.

TKOPerformance wrote:

I would just replace the T-case in that event.  Bearings, etc. can take a while to fail after contamination.  I think any money spent of messing with this one is better put towards a known good used one. 

Dorman, well, pretty hit or miss in my experience.  I would rebuild/rebalance the stock shaft before going with Dorman.  To me they are a brand of last resort. 
 

 
Thanks, I agree in rebuilding the stock driveshaft.  Everything I read confirms what you said with Dorman, it’s hit or miss. I’ll see if the junkyard has a slip yoke.  If not I’ll order a ford replacement one.   I have two weeks to get this back up and running. 

RTM wrote:

Nos681 wrote:

RTM…could you share the TSB number?

 
TSB-15-0137

 
Thanks, I will share this information.

Appreciate it.

Nos681 wrote:

RTM wrote:

I forgot the truck was in water up to the floors during the hurricane two years ago.   My son reminded me.  Maybe he’s trying to deflect from him doing something else in the truck that I don’t know about.   lol

 
What high school kid (at the time) doesn’t? 😁

 
Well I hope he wasn’t as adventurous as I was.    lol

Ordered a new Ford slip yoke and two new universal joints.   Now if I can get out of work by 3:00 to go pick up the transfer case.

The shop had the driveshaft built in time for me to pick it up yesterday and install it between the rain we were getting.  Truck drives super smooth now and both trucks are now in good working order.   Just in time because we picked our son up from the airport last night.

"I love it when a plan comes together!" (The A Team)  Glad you got is all worked out in time.

Last edited by Ron68 (8/29/2024 12:22 PM)