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KeithP wrote:
RTM wrote:
BobE wrote:
As long as RTM gets the wiring correct, we're all good.
That’s why I’m posting here. To make sure I get it right. lol
I’ll contact the auto cool guy and ask about the power source from the accessory position. It sure would make life easier if I can use that green/red wire.
I do have the brown wire to the blower motor that is not used. Not sure if that runs in the accessory position or not.That Brown wire has 12v when Ignition switch is in "ACC' or "ON' position.
Thanks
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I have the Autocoolguy 85 and you dont need ANY LARGE wires going to the controler, its desinged for 16ga. You will wire your fans straigt to the battery with at least 10ga and ground the same size from fans to the controlers ground lugs, just remimder the ground on the controller will need to be at least 10ga also.
Last edited by Cab4word67 (8/25/2024 10:35 AM)
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I reached out to CAA about a purple wire and ended up asking about turning a fan on when the AC comes on. I guess I have a binary switch which the compressor gos to one side and the White wire for the AC system connects on the other side of the binary switch.
My question is do I just tap the white wire side to trigger a fan? CAA suggested I use their trinary switch.
Does the switch close when it’s within the correct operating pressure range?
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I think my earlier comments were misunderstood, you do not need a large wire to the 12V #1 pin on the Auto Cool Guy controller, never said that. I meant for the ground and supply side for the fans...
Anyway, on your Auto Cool unit there's a pin (#6 on my controller) where you can manually trigger the fan, that's labeled F/S (failsafe). I ran the F/S to a manual switch that is connected to ground so I could manually turn the fan on any time with the key on.
And then pin #5 which is labeled A/C to the side of my A/C switch that sees 12V when the A/C is turned on. No need to mess with a trinary switch.
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RTM wrote:
I reached out to CAA about a purple wire and ended up asking about turning a fan on when the AC comes on. I guess I have a binary switch which the compressor gos to one side and the White wire for the AC system connects on the other side of the binary switch.
My question is do I just tap the white wire side to trigger a fan? CAA suggested I use their trinary switch.
Does the switch close when it’s within the correct operating pressure range?
The switch is 'closed' when the system has normal operating pressure.
The hi-low pressure switch monitors the system pressure, the low portion of the switch will turn off the compressor, and indicates that there is a leak in the system. The high pressure portion turns off the compressor to protect the system, as high-pressure indicates that the condenser is not cooling down the system. This typically indicates that the radiator fan is not providing the cooling necessary, or is not working at all. This is assuming the condenser is mounted in front of the radiator, and the radiator fan provide the cooling for both.
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I too have a FS switch installed, its the original heater fan switch because its not used with the new AC systems. It seamed apropreate to use. As far as needing it , not likey as with the Autocool system it will always know when max fan is needed. I think at least with mine system, built 289 with AC and stock size alluminu radiator with 1" tubes it has worked very well. if I lived in the south or where it was hot all the time I would go for the larger radiator for more surface area. As far as the binary switch, mine has it and I am wired into the Autocoolguy also for AC
Last edited by Cab4word67 (8/27/2024 11:46 AM)
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So I should tap into the wire side coming from the dash unit then, opposite of the AC compressor side of the switch?
I have the 24” radiator and I also have a 70 model condenser.
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I found some 10-12 gauge bullet terminals I was thinking I could customize the firewall harness and exterior wiring harness and I could add in a new 10 gauge power feed wire. I have a exteriorlight feed harness plug pigtail. I could build you a custom harness out of that with a 10 gauge wire to power the fan controller. Then if you were to ship me your under dash harness I could rewire the exterior light feed plug to have a 10 gauge wire as well.
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True74yamaha wrote:
I found some 10-12 gauge bullet terminals I was thinking I could customize the firewall harness and exterior wiring harness and I could add in a new 10 gauge power feed wire. I have a exteriorlight feed harness plug pigtail. I could build you a custom harness out of that with a 10 gauge wire to power the fan controller. Then if you were to ship me your under dash harness I could rewire the exterior light feed plug to have a 10 gauge wire as well.
I’m to far into the installation to take it all back out now. Nice to know there’s other options out there.
I should have all my gauges, contour fan and controller ordered this week.
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