Raymond_B wrote:

I decided to teach myself MIG and then TIG (1st MIG then a year or so later TIG), after hearing all the great feedback on PrimeWeld I went with them and could not be any happier. They are still imported machines (what isn't), but their customer service is phenomenal and their products perform great.

There's some great YouTube resources as well, these guys are my favorites:

The Fabrication Series
http://www.youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries

Welding Tips and Tricks
http://www.youtube.com/@weldingtipsandtricks

Pacific Arc TIG Welding
http://www.youtube.com/@PacificArcTigWelding
 

 
What model did you purchase?

I bought my Miller Multimatic 220 earlier this year. It was not cheap. Couple things you need to be aware of on some of the cheaper machines is how the Tig arc is started and also how the flow of Argon is started/stopped. Do a little research in that area to see what will work for you.

Last edited by KeithP (8/29/2024 10:20 AM)

I'm always a fan of Miller or Lincoln.  Look for used equipment if you need to keep cost down.  You will always be able to get parts and service for a name brand machine.  I got a Miller inverter power source many years ago for free because my buddy was sure it was dead.  I took it to the welding shop and had them look at it.  Turns out someone wired the cord wrong.  I think I paid them $60 to fix it.  I've only used it to arc weld, but its got the ability to run a MIG spool gun or a square wave TIG with the right adapters.  One day I'll play with that side of it.  A $300 TIG kit sounds better than a whole new machine.  Its the nicest arc machine I've ever used.  I've welded both steel and aluminum with it and only used maybe 1/3 its amp range even on thick aluminum castings. 

If you're looking for a multi-process hobby rig, check out the Yeswelder MIG-205DS.  It is a lot for the money.
Welder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVCWDGW
TIG Torch: https://www.amazon.com/Welding-YESWELDER-MIG-205DS-MIG-250PRO-ARC-205DS/dp/B07YP9TQV1
Spool Gun:  https://www.amazon.com/YESWELDER-Connection-MIG-205DS-250PRO-Welding/dp/B0BY8QZ9C7



 

I was aTIG welder for years in my previous life....
Miller...Lincoln....Hobart were the three machines I worked with. I couldn't tell 'a-nickels-worth-of-difference" between all of them.  I got plenty of 'tips' on how & what to do butt.....many of the high-dollar machines have a lot of features you really don't need to put down some pretty beads.
High frequency start makes for a easier start butt.....a scratch start will work on normal (non-X ray) welds. Adjustable Decay makes a smooth and prettier ending of a bead butt....hey you're welding exhaust pipes !
Trust me...nobody will ever notice you didn't use either feature.
Granted... most TIG machines come with these features STANDARD ...I was just pointing out that a LOT of the bells&whistles  on more expensive machines are never(rarely)used.
IF you don't think you'll be doing Al. welding in your future ...why pay for an AC/DC TIG machine.
                       Think BASIC is my advice!
All the years I have messed with cars and mechanical stuff....I rarely(less than 5 times) ever needed to weld some Al up. And I know how!!
IF you have NEVER TIG welded with a really nice high dollar machine....then you won't know anything but how to lay down nice beads with your budget Harbor Freight machine.
ALTHOUGH.........ya never know if your cheap machine needs repairs that someone can get parts for it. (Maybe another reason TO go with a low price unit ! IF it breaks...you're not out a big chunk of $$$!!)
6sally6

I've welded aluminum a dozen or so times.  I only ever used MIG or arc to do it.  The results were fine every time.  The machine you use is far less important than your ability.  I stick welded everything for years, because it was al I had.  People will say dumb stuff sometimes like "you can't stick weld sheetmetal" or "you can't stick weld aluminum".  Uh, what do they think people used before MIGs and TIGs were widely available?  Welding sheetmetal is slow, and you need the right rods, and you need to really watch how much heat you're putting into the work, but its by no means impossible.  Aluminum is the same.  You just need good aluminum rods and the material needs to be clean, clean, clean.  I use a stainless wire brush and acetone, and then a propane torch to make sure all the acetone is gone.  I've welded broken ears back onto T5 cases a couple times.  For thin aluminum I use a MIG.  I found that preheating it to 350 degrees first helps with weld quality. 

TIGs I think excel when working with thin material, because you have an easy way to adjust amperage on the fly with the foot pedal.  Aluminum needs less amperage as it heats up.  I had to weld a broken bellhousing back together in the vehicle once and used my wife as an adjustable amperage control.for my MIG.  Worked just fine. 
 

My little corner of happiness, or anger/frustration depending on how it's going

Raymond_B wrote:

My little corner of happiness, or anger/frustration depending on how it's going

 
That’s a very nice setup.

RTM wrote:

Thanks for all the great input everyone. 

RPM, that’s very encouraging.   

Most likely I’ll end up using the rig more than I think I will.  Just like buying the 20 ton HF press.   Never thought I would really use it much and I use it all the time.

I agree with buying used and add to that my lack of knowledge, I could easily get taken by a dishonest person.

 
I see used welders all the time where the seller says they don't know much about the machine and they don't have 220v power to test it. Those never pass the smell test.

6sally6 wrote:

I was aTIG welder for years in my previous life....
Miller...Lincoln....Hobart were the three machines I worked with. I couldn't tell 'a-nickels-worth-of-difference" between all of them. I got plenty of 'tips' on how & what to do butt.....many of the high-dollar machines have a lot of features you really don't need to put down some pretty beads.
High frequency start makes for a easier start butt.....a scratch start will work on normal (non-X ray) welds. Adjustable Decay makes a smooth and prettier ending of a bead butt....hey you're welding exhaust pipes !
Trust me...nobody will ever notice you didn't use either feature.
Granted... most TIG machines come with these features STANDARD ...I was just pointing out that a LOT of the bells&whistles on more expensive machines are never(rarely)used.
IF you don't think you'll be doing Al. welding in your future ...why pay for an AC/DC TIG machine.
Think BASIC is my advice!
All the years I have messed with cars and mechanical stuff....I rarely(less than 5 times) ever needed to weld some Al up. And I know how!!
IF you have NEVER TIG welded with a really nice high dollar machine....then you won't know anything but how to lay down nice beads with your budget Harbor Freight machine.
ALTHOUGH.........ya never know if your cheap machine needs repairs that someone can get parts for it. (Maybe another reason TO go with a low price unit ! IF it breaks...you're not out a big chunk of $$$!!)
6sally6

I was a TIG welder for a couple years . I worked in a Jet Engine Combustor shop that moved to Georgia from Houston Texas in the early 90's and has since moved to Ft. Walton Florida. It was Chromalloy Technologies. I went into Law Enforcement after I put the Torch down in 1994.

 

6sally6 wrote:

With practice you can get as good as Me and BILLY !!
Put in the time and get the rewards !!
6salad6

 I told you to delete that picture I was merely learning that was a support on Bidens wheel chair ramp I wonder if has held up?

6sally6 wrote:

With practice you can get as good as Me and BILLY !!
Put in the time and get the rewards !!
6salad6

 
I don’t know, you’ve both set the bar pretty high.  I’ve got some work to do.   😁