Are you saying this exact thing is going on even with using a can of gas for the tank?

Because my first thought is the gas tank is not venting.

Did you check the ‘stone’ filter(s) at the carb inlet?  They might be partially clogged?
Has the car sat w/o running for some extended time?

BobE wrote:

Did you check the ‘stone’ filter(s) at the carb inlet?  They might be partially clogged?
Has the car sat w/o running for some extended time?

Filters replaced. Running all spring and summer. Trouble started about 6-7 weeks ago.

Are the fuel bowls at the right height when it stops?

How long do you have to wait before you can restart the engine after it stops?

Buy an electric fuel pump and fuel pressure gauge to eliminate or confirm the fuel as the issue at O'Reilly's or Vatozone, as they allow returns without issues.

MS wrote:

Check with fuel pressure gauge.

Hooked up a Fuel Pressure gage today. Ran at 6 PSI and over a period of 15 minutes it slowly went down to 4.5 PSI and died the same way.
I tried to start it right away and it would not start.
Waited 1.5 hours, opened the gas cap (flip down) and she started right up.
Ran for 10 minutes and just died. 5 PSI before it died.
Maybe a bad batch of Edelbrock pumps? I'm returning this one too.
Any suggestions on a different mechanical fuel pump?
You can watch the PSI drop.
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

My first thought would be either the fuel pump or the needle valve in the carb.  You can bypass the fuel pump by hanging the fuel can from the hood (above the height of the carb inlet).  You don't really need a fuel pump; its there to fight gravity.  Old cars had no fuel pump and they mounted the tank under the seat and the carb down low on the engine.  Cheaper alternative than buying anything to see if the fuel pump is the issue. 

Worth noting to make sure the temporary gas can is vented too. 

I've had issue over the years with needle valves that have a rubber tip.  I think the ethanol in the fuel does something to the rubber and causes the valve to stick closed.  I just had this issue with my tractor this year.  A new needle valve solved the issue.  It did the same thing, ran fine, but 2 minutes after throwing a load on the engine by starting the deck it died. 
 

New needle valves installed.
What would I use to make a gas can to hang from the hood. This is something to try for sure.

If you are still having the problem, you can eliminate heat in the fuel system by getting a can of starting fluid and squirting some into the throat of the carburetor when it won't start.  Just remove the air cleaner and give a shot of starting fluid straight into the carb.  Hit the key and see if it fires up.  If it does, you will need to correct the heat issue you have with the fuel.

Assuming it does start with the starting fluid, do you have a spacer between the carburetor and the intake manifold?  If so, what material is it made of and how thick is it?
 

Chelby-Ann wrote:

MS wrote:

Check with fuel pressure gauge.

Hooked up a Fuel Pressure gage today. Ran at 6 PSI and over a period of 15 minutes it slowly went down to 4.5 PSI and died the same way.
I tried to start it right away and it would not start.
Waited 1.5 hours, opened the gas cap (flip down) and she started right up.
Ran for 10 minutes and just died. 5 PSI before it died.
Maybe a bad batch of Edelbrock pumps? I'm returning this one too.
Any suggestions on a different mechanical fuel pump?
You can watch the PSI drop.
 

Okay, here's what you need to do now: run it until it dies, immediately open the gas cap and see if it starts up again.  If not, the problem persists and its not a tank venting issue.  If it does then its a tank venting issue.  Try running it with the gas cap off/open and se if it dies. 
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Rufus68 wrote:

If you are still having the problem, you can eliminate heat in the fuel system by getting a can of starting fluid and squirting some into the throat of the carburetor when it won't start.  Just remove the air cleaner and give a shot of starting fluid straight into the carb.  Hit the key and see if it fires up.  If it does, you will need to correct the heat issue you have with the fuel.

Assuming it does start with the starting fluid, do you have a spacer between the carburetor and the intake manifold?  If so, what material is it made of and how thick is it?
 

Not necessarily.  If it starts off starting fluid it really just means there's a fuel supply issue.  It could be vapor lock, or it could be something else.  I find it hard to believe he's encountering vapor lock in 10-15 minutes, especially when he said it was running fine through the summer and spring, which is when it could be most prone to vapor lock. 
 

My point to him is to give him a way to eliminate the fuel as the issue.  If it is not fuel related, it should not start from the starting fluid when hot.  However, if it does start then it is a heat related fuel issue.
 

Rufus68 wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Rufus68 wrote:

If you are still having the problem, you can eliminate heat in the fuel system by getting a can of starting fluid and squirting some into the throat of the carburetor when it won't start.  Just remove the air cleaner and give a shot of starting fluid straight into the carb.  Hit the key and see if it fires up.  If it does, you will need to correct the heat issue you have with the fuel.

Assuming it does start with the starting fluid, do you have a spacer between the carburetor and the intake manifold?  If so, what material is it made of and how thick is it?
 

Not necessarily.  If it starts off starting fluid it really just means there's a fuel supply issue.  It could be vapor lock, or it could be something else.  I find it hard to believe he's encountering vapor lock in 10-15 minutes, especially when he said it was running fine through the summer and spring, which is when it could be most prone to vapor lock. 
 

My point to him is to give him a way to eliminate the fuel as the issue.  If it is not fuel related, it should not start from the starting fluid when hot.  However, if it does start then it is a heat related fuel issue.
 

Fair enough, but if you read what you initially wrote you claim that if the car starts off the starting fluid the issue is heat related, which may not be the case, which is why I clarified that it would really only show if the issue was fuel related or not.  Not trying to start an argument, just trying to help the OP.