RTM wrote:

Looking for 2.5" exhaust pipe kits on various sites from Summit to Amazon. Amazon by far has the best deal and has a kit that is just about what I need. Summit kit has twice the amount of pipes than what I need. Anyone ever buy the SS exhaust pipes from Amazon? I figured I can't go wrong for the price.

I've bought various "stainless" pipe sizes from Amazon when working on the cold side for my turbo project and for the most part it was OK. But be sure to read the reviews, some of it is legit stainless and others are not. Quality varies quite a bit too.
 

Last edited by Raymond_B (1/08/2025 12:35 PM)

6sally6 wrote:

Only IF you want stainless for the "shiny" aspect. Otherwise its hard to beat a guy with a bending machine at your favorite muffler shop. They have a lift too ! Don't forget the cut-outs......
Off of long tube headers there really isn't a lot of twists&turns&bends to be made (thinking about my car). I just bought the tailpipes from Summit (I think).
Un-leaded fuel will make the mild steel pipes last forevvvvver too !
Take lotsa pics !
6sally6

 
Actually I need to turn towards the tunnel and over the convertible plate that bolts to the seat pans.  Once I'm in the tunnel it'll be a straight shot.  I plan on turning it down in front of the axle.  I'm not going to try and get around the watts link.

I did read the reviews of the brand I posted a picture of and their bend are horrible.  One review said to buy the pipe sold by DNA on Amazon and those reviews are great.

Not too worried about being shiny, just don't want to worry about rust or maintaining it like paint.   Funny this morning on Facebook marketplace an ad popped up from someone selling what looks like the same kit with 12 clamps and clamps vary from 45, 90 to straight for $165.   If the bends are all good I may try to buy it.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Stick a magnet to it.  If its real 304 its non magnetic.  I often see 304 and 409 used interchangeably in exhaust marketing, but the two are not the same.  409 is a lower grade, magnetic stainless that will rust.  That rust is typically surface rust that will not progress to rust out, but its extremely shocking to see on your stainless exhaust.

I used a 2.5" Magnaflow kit on my car and it fit quite well. 
 

 
I'll make sure I take a magnet with me. 

I don't think any kits designed for our cars will work for me because I have the R&C MII front setup which uses a different header. 

The kit on Facebook is marked down to $100.   Haven't heard back from the seller yet.

RTM wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Stick a magnet to it.  If its real 304 its non magnetic.  I often see 304 and 409 used interchangeably in exhaust marketing, but the two are not the same.  409 is a lower grade, magnetic stainless that will rust.  That rust is typically surface rust that will not progress to rust out, but its extremely shocking to see on your stainless exhaust.

I used a 2.5" Magnaflow kit on my car and it fit quite well. 
 

 
I'll make sure I take a magnet with me.

I don't think any kits designed for our cars will work for me because I have the R&C MII front setup which uses a different header.

The kit on Facebook is marked down to $100. Haven't heard back from the seller yet.

I basically made my exhaust consisting of JBA headers, an X pipe that uses JBA ball and socket connectors from their H-pipe mated to the X pipe from the Magnaflow kit.  Then I built adjustable hangers for the tail pipes so I could get the tips properly located in the GT valance.  I took a set of correct repro rolled edge GT tips and cut/welded 2.5" pipe into them so they look stock, but mate to a 2.5" system.

So, mating up different headers and exhaust may not be all that tricky compared to fabbing a whole new system from scratch out of pope and bends.  These days my time is just too valuable, and the longer a project takes the less time I have the car on the road, and ultimately the less I actually want to work on it. 

I can't find a short 3 bolt header collector in stainless steel.    I have found a couple that are 12" in length but nothing in the standard short collectors.

RTM wrote:

I can't find a short 3 bolt header collector in stainless steel. I have found a couple that are 12" in length but nothing in the standard short collectors.

Magnaflow has some, but they are 409, not 304 stainless.  All the ones I see are 12" long.  I think cutting them down with a whiz wheel is quicker than searching the net for a unicorn.  You always end up with exhaust pipe left over.  I wouldn't stress over it. 
 

BobE wrote:

RTM - regarding dumping the exhaust under the car before the rear axle, this can allow exhaust fumes to enter the car when stopped with the engine running, and can be worse if the wndows are open. I had this issue years ago and needed to change my routing.  Just saying. 

I agree, I would not run dumps on anything other than a dedicated race car, or a pickup where the dumps are under the bed. 
 

I don’t live up north where road treatments may affect this, but I have had aluminized steel tubing exhaust systems that looked better after 15 years than my JBA stainless system does.  And it is a lot cheaper. That is what I put on my 69 and have purchased for my 65 convertible. About half the price, maybe less.

Exactly Mike, I think I rolled my '67 out into my driveway when it was dusted with snow one time years ago to take a picture, because it looked cool.  I would NEVER put the car on the road with any chance of salt being down.  At the end of winter I'll wait until we've had at least one good hard rain to wash off any remaining residue before taking her out.  I don't even like to drive my DDs on that garbage.  I'd prefer they did nothing.  The main roads get used too much to ever ice over here.  It just doesn't get that cold here.  For the side streets, well, if you live in my area and you don't have a DD that's AWD or 4WD that's on you.  I live 1.5 miles from where they stop plowing the roads.  I've never had an issue getting in or out, even the year we got 4' of snow (no, we didn't plow it, my neighbor and I ran our trucks down it every hour until it stopped snowing and made a packed snow road).  When in doubt, buy a beater Subaru for the winter and only insure it from December to March.  Subies are great in the kind of snow we get here, cheap to repair, mechanically simple, and cost maybe $1-$2k in good shape and ready to own the winter roads.  The issue isn't the snow; the issue is that people can't drive. 

STILL NEED MUFFLER SUGGESTIONS ?!!
6S6

Last edited by 6sally6 (1/10/2025 2:34 PM)

6sally6 wrote:

STILL NEED MUFFLER SUGGESTIONS ?!!
6S6

 
Am I the only one that wants to know what this sounds like.  😁