| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Haven't been on for a while but have been thinking about installing a panhard bar and wanted to see if anyone had any experience they'd care to share as to handling improvement, manufacturer and exhaust routing? Thanks.
Offline
If your leaf springs and mounts are in proper working condition, I don't see how any additional lateral support would be necessary. Am I missing something?
Offline
If you are going to do it, add a watts link.
With springs having good shackle and eye bushings, I do not see much advantage to either one.
But, a panhard bar swings in an arc, so the rear end has to move sideways a bit for it to work.
Offline
I have a Mike Maier Panhard rod in mine. If you do the trig with a 35” long horizontal rod with 4” of total travel (2” up/ 2” down) pretty reasonable for a road car with stiff suspension) the side to side movement is a whopping 1/16”.
Watts link is cool, but not work the trouble imho on a street car.
I’d say the most noticeable thing is the reduction of the “post burnout wigwag” for lack of better terms. If you mash your foot into the go pedal and get sideways when you lift and the tire speed matches the road there is less of a side to side wiggle when you get traction. It feels more secure. No hard evidence but I do believe they make a positive performance improvement.
Exhaust routing is challenging. Find a great exhaust shop or install downturn dumps before the axle.
Last edited by Bentworker (1/06/2025 10:00 PM)
Offline
Thanks MS. I was initially thinking of a Watts but when I looked at the geometry, concluded that a panhard bar would only cause a very minor side to side movement and was much simpler to install. Definitely not necessary for a street car, but I need another car project! You understand, I'm sure.
MS wrote:
If you are going to do it, add a watts link.
With springs having good shackle and eye bushings, I do not see much advantage to either one.
But, a panhard bar swings in an arc, so the rear end has to move sideways a bit for it to work.
Offline
Supposedly, the new Mike Maier bar provides more room for the exhaust, but it looks tight. I definitely want to keep the exhaust routed thru the valence, so I'm not going to get one unless I'm sure that can happen. Any chance for a picture? Thanks.
Bentworker wrote:
I have a Mike Maier Panhard rod in mine. If you do the trig with a 35” long horizontal rod with 4” of total travel (2” up/ 2” down) pretty reasonable for a road car with stiff suspension) the side to side movement is a whopping 1/16”.
Watts link is cool, but not work the trouble imho on a street car.
I’d say the most noticeable thing is the reduction of the “post burnout wigwag” for lack of better terms. If you mash your foot into the go pedal and get sideways when you lift and the tire speed matches the road there is less of a side to side wiggle when you get traction. It feels more secure. No hard evidence but I do believe they make a positive performance improvement.
Exhaust routing is challenging. Find a great exhaust shop or install downturn dumps before the axle.
Offline
On a lead spring car I don't see the advantage. A panhard bar is really intended for a link style suspension. They work very well when added to a Fox platform car, because the whole angled upper control arm thing really never worked under hard cornering where the bushings deflect, and using stiffer bushings just causes binding due to the short upper arms and the different arcs the upper and lower arms travel. If you really want the best handling in one of those cars ditch the upper arms and go to a torque arm.
In a lead spring car you are only getting side to side movement from bushing deflection. If that's really that much of a concern go to a set of Delalum bushings and eliminate the deflection. Cheaper and they don't effect anything else like exhaust routing.
Last edited by TKOPerformance (1/07/2025 7:32 AM)
Offline
To me this is one of those things that is just something someone wants and may feel the a slight difference in our daily driving. Will I ever put the SoT rear setup in my car to real use, most likely not but it's what I wanted. There's always other options and opinions which make the forum a great place to discuss. I think if you're thinking about it then go for it.
Offline
Offline
Idunno, to me it looks like a lot of additional weight . . . . . for a street car.
Autocrossers may say differently.
Offline
Rudi wrote:
Idunno, to me it looks like a lot of additional weight . . . . . for a street car.
Autocrossers may say differently.
Ya, butt it's weight in a good spot.
Offline
Bentworker - nice undercarriage.
Was the gas line outlet change and straps holding the gas tank part of panhard installation?
Is this installed on a Mustang?
Offline
Installed on a 71’ Mustang, that is why things look a little different under there.
Offline
Purdy bottom !!
6s6
Offline
Bentworker wrote:
Installed on a 71’ Mustang, that is why things look a little different under there.
Got it, thank you
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |