Are those the 'nice' scuff plates OR the Al. ones(like I have...
Nice
6sal6

You're making great progress, keep it going. 

Looks great

Yep, the "little things" can ewat up a lot of time ... and, in some cases, money..  I'm used to hearing this called "getting nickel and dimed to death". 

rpm wrote:

RTM wrote:

Thanks.  It's exciting and kind of overwhelming at the same time.  All these little things can eat up a lot of time.  Now I'm thinking it may be best to start wet sanding and buffing before I put the last of the front end parts on.

 
We don't know what we don't know. Until you've taken a car completely apart, changed parts on it not intended for your year car, put it back together and driven it, do you realize how big a project it is. The research time alone is a bunch.


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My break in road trip was the 2017 Ft Walton Beach Florida Bash. Not sure why I thought that could be accomplished, but I only needed one tow. 😁

 
Time spent researching and searching is way up there.  If and when I make a Bash I'll trailer the mustang there just to be safe.  Lol

My back did give out and I laid on the couch until around 2:00 yesterday.   I was able to get a little done on the mustang.    You should have seen me rolling off of the creeper and trying to stand up.  lol

I'm relocating the heat valve for the AC.  Once that's done I can add coolant.  Fans and controller are wired up.  All though I haven't tested the fans yet.  The CVF belt was a pain to put on.   Maybe by this weekend I can start wet sanding and buffing.  If not I should be by the following weekend. 

KeithP wrote:

That CVF serpentine belt is difficult to get on. I had to remove one of the idler pullies near the alternator and reinstall. Check the belt alignment on the pullies. I ruined one serpentine belt because the belt started riding on the tensioner pulley lip. To fix this I had to shim out/in the main bracket on the passenger side and the harmonic balancer.

 
It's been a couple of years since I checked for belt alignment and when I did I had to add a shim to the bottom pulley.  This is most likely from not installing the metal oil splash piece in front of the lower timing gear.   Other than that I recall everything being spot on.  I have yet to start the engine with the belt on.

I did have to remove the cover from one of the idler pulleys and I loosened up the AC and Alt.  Finally got it on which was tuff with my back hurting.  I used my tensioner tool and had the handle sticking out of the bottom of the car so I could use my keg to hold it in place.  Then I had two hands to fight the belt.

Keep moving forward. 

heyranch@aol.com wrote:

got a gear reduction starter for my 1969 mustang 302 engine but don't know how to wire it to starter solenoid. Can anybody help ?
 

First, welcome to the best place on the web,...or one of them.  Second:  you probably should start a new thread rather than adding a new subject to an existing thread.
Third:  I think those "mini" starters all have a built in solenoid that handles the high current and engages the drive gear.  I believe you can bypass the stock solenoid completely, except for the brown "coil bypass" wire by running a large cable from the battery side of the stock solenoid to the new starter.   And, run a jumper from the S terminal of the stock solenoid to the S terminal of the new starter.  That way when you turn the ignition switch to start, both solenoids will close but the stock one will only provide 12V for coil bypass when starting.

Or....You can run the stock "starter cable" to the big lug on the new starter and make a small jumper to go  from the big lug to the small "S" terminal of the new starter.  This is the simplest and will power the new starter and close it's solenoid when you turn to "start" and close the stock solenoid.

Hope this helps.

BB!

The starter solenoid on the PMGR mini starter draws more current than the fender mounted solenoid.  The better way to wire the original solenoid to the PMGR starter is to run the fat starter cable to the battery side of the fender solenoid like said above.  However, run a new smaller wire from the output lug of the fender solenoid to the "S" terminal of the mini starter solenoid to trigger it.  This will prevent drawing the extra current needed to power the mini starter solenoid from flowing through your key switch.  The extra current will instead flow through the fender solenoid.

Recapping, move the fat starter wire from the output lug of the fender solenoid to the input lug of the fender solenoid.  Run a new smaller wire from the output lug of the fender solenoid to the trigger spade of the PMGR solenoid.  Do not touch neither the "S" wire nor the brown coil wire on the fender solenoid.

Last edited by Rufus68 (1/27/2025 3:38 AM)

Bob, the extra current is because the PMGR solenoid does 2 jobs.  In addition to closing contacts for the high current circuit, the solenoid also pushes and holds the starter gear into the ring gear.

I gots me one of dem pgmr starters for Christmas.  Flee bay special.  Was gonna stick it on the Gal, but I wanted a clean one to fabricate a starter heat shield.   Just another unrealized idea I have on my brain.