My 'lectric one rarely comes on...even in the summer ! (cept in bumper-to-bumper)
I credit the Shelby apron for the additional cooling. REALLY opens the radiator for cooling.
I have a manual over ride toggle switch for mine butt rarely use it. I also have a light on the dash that comes on when the fan cycles on to keep me up-to-date on whats go'in on.
One plus a lotta guys don't tink about, with an electric fan, your timing light cord doesn't get chopped up when setting the timing! (or your fangerz!)
6sal6

kardad wrote:

This is what is great about all of the different experience on here. I spent all of the time swapping to a dual belt pulley on the alternator and WP to deal with the squeal and never considered a wider V-belt to bite better.

If I had only presented the issue back when,

I believe the issue with new v-belts is that they are made to metric sizes, and are slightly less wide, allowing them to be go deeper into the v-groove.  
 

On a van I used to own the fan quit working.  I spent a lot of time trying to trace the fault and no matter what I tried no joy.   I could get the fan to come on by grounding the relay, so I knew everything upstream was working.  It had to be in the engine control module, but it wasn't throwing any codes.   I just gave up and installed a GM 555? fan switch and ran that wire to the ground on the relay.   It worked great the rest of the time I had it.

I always thought if I ever put an electric fan on an old car, that I'd just wire a relay and a switch like that.  Keep it simple.

The only way I will buy Dorman parts is if there is literally no other option.  Years ago they were a decent brand.  In the past 20 years they are at best hot or miss. 

On fans I'd treat airflow specs provided with a grain of salt.  I would trust those from SPAL, and maybe one or two other reputable companies.  Most you have no idea how they were tested.  Manufacturers are notorious for claiming their fan that only draws 20 amps puts out 3,000 CFM, which seems too good to be true.  If you research it you'll find its because it was tested in open air (no radiator in front of it).  Well, that test is kind of useless then isn't it?  I mean, pretty sure we are all going to run a radiator.  Carb manufacturers do the same thing by choosing arbitrary points of depression for testing. 

I'd keep a real close eye on any fan that is not OEM, SPAL, or another reputable manufacturer.  Motor housings which aren't sealed is another cost saving measure that causes the fan motor to lock up from water infiltration. 

I'm pretty sure it was 3/8 npt.     I would imagine switches are available in other thread counts, and temp ranges, it would just be a matter of researching it out.   That is where the good books that used to be under the auto parts store counters would help greatly.

Raymond_B wrote:

Do you mean part# SW555? If so I found this reference

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooling/648953-list-fan-switched-pns.html

Thank you, I never knew these manufacturers specifications were available.  Would have saved me a lot of trial and error through the years.