Yep, there is always something to do.

Tip for reinstall:
Use one long heater hose that goes from upper connection, through firewall, then back through firewall to connect to lower hose connection.  That way you can install the clamps on the floorboard and not snaked under the dash. Once the clamps are secure, grab the hose loop and pull from engine compartment. The heatwr box will fall right in position.

Be sure to test the new core before installing it. I use a short length of bicycle tube with the Schrader valve in it. Clamp to each tube, put 15 psi in it and submerge.

MS wrote:

Tip for reinstall:
Use one long heater hose that goes from upper connection, through firewall, then back through firewall to connect to lower hose connection. That way you can install the clamps on the floorboard and not snaked under the dash. Once the clamps are secure, grab the hose loop and pull from engine compartment. The heatwr box will fall right in position.

Be sure to test the new core before installing it. I use a short length of bicycle tube with the Schrader valve in it. Clamp to each tube, put 15 psi in it and submerge.

Thanks MS - I will do that. NPD says my parts will arrive in SIX days...... :-(
 

So, I got the heater assy rebuilt and installed using MS's trick with the water hoses, which I re-routed over the top of the intake manifold. I then installed the heated air tube and modified the snorkel to clear the cowl support rod (65 convertible specific) and installed the air cleaner assy. I started the engine and let it warm up to operating temp. The heated air valve in the snorkel worked perfectly - wide open when cold and fully closed when warmed up. Also replaced the defroster hose upper flange that was broken, and repaired the broken ground wire on the windshield wiper motor. Everything now works as advertised - got lots of heat and defroster air too.

I did also discover a new issue. Passenger door latch was loose - had  one screw missing. Happened to have the correct screw -  tightened them up and door closes much better - but I do have a crack in the door frame formed across one of the top two screws.

 What is (other than welding) the standard repair for this?

BobE wrote:

I purchased a repair plate for that purpose many years ago.  It is not welded in, and used the existing screws to hold it in place. It has held up for about the past 20 years.  Suggest checking with the supply houses to see if it is still available.

Thanks Bob - I will check it out.

50vert wrote:

Here ya go Ron.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-door-latch-repair-plate-pair-mustang-1967-1970/p/DLRP2/

Yep, that looks like the one I installed. 

John Ha wrote:

You know, of course, that when you open a can of worms you can go fishin' if you don't want to deal with them right away - sorta the "fish or cut bait" deal ...

Funny you should say that John - I'm going out for salmon early on Wednesday morning.  Blackmouth (immature King salmon) season opens tomorrow in Puget Sound.

Last edited by Ron68 (3/30/2025 10:39 PM)