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like the area between the grille and core support. Was think someone on here made them.
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The upper stone guard?
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
like the area between the grille and core support. Was think someone on here made them.
Are you referring to the custom cover that covers that gap?
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Is what you want?
NPD part # 8C291-1c. $182.28
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Rudi wrote:
Is what you want?
NPD part # 8C291-1c. $182.28
Your link doesn't bring you to a photo - only a bunch of advertising.
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That the same part from the link I posted, why pay more to go thru NPD?
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NPD prices are always higher, it pays to shop around
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Radiator Opening Cover Bare Steel Mustang 1965
they having a sale.....
I was thinking they were alumminum.
Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (8/25/2025 6:47 PM)
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Radiator Opening Cover Bare Steel Mustang 1965
they having a sale.....
I was thinking they were alumminum.
Some is . . . Some ain’t
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Rudi wrote:
BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Radiator Opening Cover Bare Steel Mustang 1965
they having a sale.....
I was thinking they were alumminum.Some is . . . Some ain’t
Paint probably stick better on the steel one.
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Rudi wrote:
BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Radiator Opening Cover Bare Steel Mustang 1965
they having a sale.....
I was thinking they were alumminum.Some is . . . Some ain’t
Paint probably stick better on the steel one.
Not necessarily. Aluminum holds paint just fine, but you have to prep it properly. Blast it, apply a primer containing zinc chromate, and then topcoat. I've prepped transmission cases like this that later went through a parts washer and all the paint stayed put. Where people fail with aluminum is they don't remove the oxide layer (why you blast it first), so the paint only bonds to that and its not a good bond. Aluminum will form an oxide layer in 6-8 hours under normal conditions. Even brand new aluminum parts have that layer, so it seems odd to blast a brand new part you want to paint, but its the only way I've found to get proper adhesion. I learned this method many years ago restoring an airplane with my neighbor.
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Rudi wrote:
BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Radiator Opening Cover Bare Steel Mustang 1965
they having a sale.....
I was thinking they were alumminum.Some is . . . Some ain’t
Paint probably stick better on the steel one.
Why make it difficult? Get the black anodized from Undercover Innovations and you won't have to paint it. What an I missing here? Is the five dollars higher price for the anodized piece holding you up? Keep it simple. In the time spent talking about painting the iron piece, you could have ordered, received, and installed the anodized pay.
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rpm wrote:
BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Rudi wrote:
Some is . . . Some ain’tPaint probably stick better on the steel one.
Why make it difficult? Get the black anodized from Undercover Innovations and you won't have to paint it. What an I missing here? Is the five dollars higher price for the anodized piece holding you up? Keep it simple. In the time spent talking about painting the iron piece, you could have ordered, received, and installed the anodized pay.
I did not see that ...Good Idea
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rpm wrote:
BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Rudi wrote:
Some is . . . Some ain’t
Paint probably stick better on the steel one.
Why make it difficult? Get the black anodized from Undercover Innovations and you won't have to paint it. What an I missing here? Is the five dollars higher price for the anodized piece holding you up? Keep it simple. In the time spent talking about painting the iron piece, you could have ordered, received, and installed the anodized pay.
They have a good price it comes out to $124.00 with about $10.00 in tax but then they slam almost $58.00 in shipping. That is only $36.97 more total after the shipping options....be easier than painting and better.
Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (8/26/2025 10:48 AM)
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Anodizing is when they simply dye the oxide layer of the aluminum. I'd check with someone who has purchased the part and see how it holds up if possible. All anodizing is not created equal, and low quality anodizing will allow the part to corrode. You have to be careful with scratches too, because if they cut through the oxide layer it can corrode. A trick I learned is get a matching color sharpie and color in the scratch carefully. Works quite well.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Anodizing is when they simply dye the oxide layer of the aluminum. I'd check with someone who has purchased the part and see how it holds up if possible. All anodizing is not created equal, and low quality anodizing will allow the part to corrode. You have to be careful with scratches too, because if they cut through the oxide layer it can corrode. A trick I learned is get a matching color sharpie and color in the scratch carefully. Works quite well.
See if Summit sells them for free shipping. My buddy has had one on his 69 Mustang since they first started selling them a hundred years ago. It looks as good as it did when new. Gary's 69 is right next to his 56 F100. If either of you two had come to the Bako Bash ya coulda checked it out yourselves. 😁
Welp, it ain't letting me post pics.
Last edited by rpm (8/26/2025 9:24 PM)
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