MustangSteve wrote:

......Or, make a road trip, bring it over and we'll stick it on the lift and figure it out.
...

Hey, yeah!  We could stop off and see our daughter in Lubbock.  On second thought, Mrs B would not like the wind in her hair for a trip like that.
 

6sally6 wrote:

boomyal wrote:

MustangSteve wrote:

......Or, make a road trip, bring it over and we'll stick it on the lift and figure it out.
...

Hey, yeah!  We could stop off and see our daughter in Lubbock.  On second thought, Mrs B would not like the wind in her hair for a trip like that.
 

HEY!! Our wives may be related!
6sal6
 

Long lost sisters, prolly!
 

boomyal wrote:

If I had a lift I would likely be able to flesh this out myself, but I don't.  It has been said that the only reason you cannot use the Shelby manual steering quick steer idler and pitman arm on a factory power steeriing car is because to use them you would put the steering ram pivot points in a bind.

I had the quick steer components on my '66 with factory power steering (except it had a drop bracket on the end of the ram that attached to the frame) and it worked fine.  

I have an extra quick steer pitman arm and idler arm. Would you like to borrow them for test fitting/experimenting? I could ship them to you and when you're done you can ship them back (or maybe we can work out a purchase deal if it works).

Send me an email if you're interested - it's in a PM I sent you a bit ago.

Last edited by John Ha (4/04/2014 7:50 AM)

terry wrote:

I'm prolly gonna either do borgeson or rack and pinion on my 65.  I like the factory PS except when it comes to 70 mph down the interstate and you get in the path that the semis have caused and it pretty much throws you all over.  

Sounds like an alignment issue to me.  Mine is rock solid, even in the ruts caused by studded tires. It was not always so until I found this web site and met a saavy front end guy.   I'm just tired of having to reel in yards of steering wheel when I make more than a minor turn.

Furthermore, I do not relish spending $800+ to accomplish what could possibly be done for a fraction of that.
 

Last edited by boomyal (4/03/2014 8:50 PM)

terry wrote:

well boom I guess I need your alignment guru!  It was aligned to factory specs or so the computers said!  I dont have any issues on 2 lane roads!  its just the ruts in the interstate that causes problems

Terry, look and ask around your area for a guy who does hot rods and custom cars, ie, someone who really knows his business.  This guy I found and have become good friends with, is about 66 y/o, does not have one of those fancy digital racks and even has new car dealers sending him vehicles that they cannot figure out the problems for.

I have come to see that most of today's tire and alignment shops are a total rip off.  That being said, you need someone who understands the old suspension systems and knows how to massage them. Additionally, factory specs are worthless on today's early Mustangs.  They were used to accomodate bias ply tires and to keep secretaries from loosing the rear end, in tight turns.  That is a great combination to have your car go where it wants, not where you want it to.

Build in 3 (minimum) to 4° of positive caster and you'll flying like a dart. Also you want a neg. 1/2 to 0 degrees of camber and 1/16 to 1/8" tow in. 

Other things I did to mine was the Arning Drop, the UCA shaft offset, using roller perches offset (outward) 3/4" and a roller idler arm.  I have new KYB GR2 shocks, stock springs and 185/75 R14 Michelin Radials. Also it goes without saying that all of my ball joints and bushings are in good shape.
 

Last edited by boomyal (4/04/2014 10:27 AM)

MustangSteve wrote:

...... bad handling on the truck wash in the highways......, .

I didn't understand Terry to mean 'truck wash', although re-reading his post it is plain enough.  I thought he was talking about the wear on the road surface due to truck traffic.  Even so, I can't say I have any signicant experience, in my Mustang, with truck wash but I do know that they just cause a slight deflection when I am in my slab sided E150.

.....But then.....maybe the air is a lot denser down there in Tejas?
 

Boom, I bet those sensibly sized 185/75 R14 Michelin Radials have more to do with the straight line capabilities than any of that other stuff.  Those of us who succumbed to the BIGGER IS BETTER theory with wheels and tires have to pay the price for "the look".

And John Ha may be onto something with that lowered ram mount on the frame.  I bet it positions the ram down far enough so it doesn't hit the tie rod adjusting sleeve in normal driving.  Maybe that is why his works and the normal one doesn't?

Truck wash is what I heard those ruts from big trucks being called around here.  I guess you up-north guys use that term for turbulence?  Either way, its an uneven road !

Last edited by MustangSteve (4/04/2014 8:42 PM)

I am fighting the same problem with freeway driving. I was just getting ready to buy a new steering box from Chockostang. Been thinking my rebuilt box was messed up. (Box was rebuilt by a reputable company (Red Head in Seattle) Works great on two lane roads and on the track. I was thinking of trying smaller tires on the front for the street. I was also planning on buying new tires for summer and track (Bridgestone RE11-A) 225/50/16. Now I don't know what to do?!?!?! I want the car to work better on the freeway and better on the track. Below is my list of upgrades:

66 coupe, 289, Edelbrock carb, Weiand 8011 intake, Pertronix Ignition, Hipo exhaust manifolds, 2" dual exhaust, WC T5 trans, 3.40 gears, KH 11" front disc, Hawk HPS pads, stock rear drums, 1" front sway bar, rubber bushings, Shelby quick steer kit, GT progressive rate coils, 4.5 leaf mid-eye, KYB Gas-A-Just front & GR-2 rear, export brace, Monti-Carlo bar, Global West sub-frame connectors, performance alignment, 16" x 7" wheels, 215/55/16 and 225/55/16 Toyo Proxes4 tires

terry wrote:

I'm prolly gonna either do borgeson or rack and pinion on my 65.  I like the factory PS except when it comes to 70 mph down the interstate and you get in the path that the semis have caused and it pretty much throws you all over.  

 
Terry, forget factory specs... you need at least 3.5 of positive caster.