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7/25/2014 7:34 PM  #1


Oil filter disection!

Ran two weekends on break-in oil in my race car. Just changed over to Brad Penn green oil and cut the filter to look at what was there. There was nothing there, but the filter was a Fram. I remember a lot of negative on the Fram stuff being paper end caps and all on the internal element. Well, I run the HP1 and all internals are metal and lood great. Maybe some of the other ones are lesser stuff, but this thing looks really good. And good for me there was nothing in the filter to worry about. It has survived some cold starts with well over 100 psi and no leaks. So I think the HP series of Fram stuff is pretty good. From the looks of the inlet side to the outlet side it is doing it's job.

 

7/25/2014 8:10 PM  #2


Re: Oil filter disection!

a number of years  ago I was obsessed with finding the best oil and filter that could be used on a auto.

the filter analysis I found here was pretty good

http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/reference.html

I found the Amsoil co used analysis to determine oil properties at new and at extendeded intervals.

Not to start a oil war but for my cars I use amsoil signature 0w30 and their na filters.  The mustang gets amsoil  zrod oil

for a incredable amount of oil/filter analysis data go to bobistheoilguy.com



I used to send my oil to the lab but found even after 12 k miles I could leave it in there longer but 10k- 12k is my mental limit, remember I am from the  3k-4k change old school.

They make kits to send oil to labs. It's really easy. 

 

7/26/2014 9:14 AM  #3


Re: Oil filter disection!

Several years ago I settled on the HP1 by using my analysis kit from my hydraulic days. I use a 0.5 micron teflon filter patch and pump the oil sample through that and then use the microscope with measuring capability to determine filter efficiency. With the 20 W 50 oils I use, the HP1 was the equivalent of all but a couple rediculous ones. They did a better job of the super small particles, but not much difference in the range that does harm to a motor that is appart as much as a race motor is. The smaller particles do contribute to sludge over time, but that is not a consideration in most race applications. I also found that using the same analysis on my street cars, extended change intervals are not a problem for most, but you need to look at PH level too. Most modern engines do not have much blow-by or generate much debris, so the oil does well from the suspended solids look, but due to moisture and heat, the additives can give a PH change that can damage if not controlled.

     Thread Starter
 

7/26/2014 9:57 AM  #4


Re: Oil filter disection!

Hey DC!! Not sounding ugly butt.......have you tried a thinner oil in your race engines...to take advantage of less drag/fricition with thinner oils? Should be easier for the old oil pump to spin the thin....instead of the 20/50? OR do you run a lot of bearing clearances for less drag?
Like I said...not "trying-to-start-sumthin'..." just learning from  others.
Would love to take a look at that race car one day!!
6sal6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

7/26/2014 11:04 AM  #5


Re: Oil filter disection!

I have used Fram for years with no issues.
 All my Fords now get fiters from FOMOCO.


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

7/26/2014 4:28 PM  #6


Re: Oil filter disection!

Thinner oil is a good idea, but has shown no real power gains on the dyno. I run a 195 themostat and get best performance at 210 water temp and 230 to 250 oil temp. So with the clearences in this motor I get good oil pressure with the 20 W 50. Tried the synthetics too and no measurable gain on the dyno. Anyway, I have run the green stuff and never lost a motor with it since the late 70's. So, since I can't measure a gain, I'll stick with success.

     Thread Starter
 

Board footera


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