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Howdy. Been years since I've posted but the son has finished college and recently moved back for a job in the area and it's time to finish his car. Instead of dynamat there was a mention of using a product from Lowes or Home Depot to insulate and quiet the cabin noise.
Oops. Rustfree 66 fastback, 302, T5. Not running yet but will be this summer! All has been rebuilt now putting back together. Thanks
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I have that stuff over the entire floor and trunk floor in addition to the asphalt type sound deadeners that you get from the Mustang parts stores. While it certainly seems to insulate heat pretty well, it is hard for me to say it mad a huge difference in sound. That could be from the Magnaflow exhaust, which for me, is too loud. I haven't driven in a car with Dynamat or the like so I'm not sure how it compares.
Oh yeah, the product from Lowes is Reflectix.
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Thanks. Did you use 3M spray adhesive?
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Sound waves, vibration, heat are evil. First, Dynamat is a vibration dampner. Sound has two parts high freq and low freq. Highs are absorbed by a foam turned into a small heat wave . Lows are blocked by a mass prefered by a mass loaded vinyl. Heat is blocked by foil. Theres sound freq. that are an irratent to humans measured in "Sones". Have fun reading on the e net about blocking road / tire noise.
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I undercoated all the insides of my fenders quarters trunk area around gas tank on inner quarter in side of the doors. Do not use hardware store grade big difference. I purchased mine from keystone automotive good product. Also when I was getting ready for paint I used their epoxy primer. The sheet material you used is good stuff it makes a difference I used that on top of my undercoating with the 3m adhesive #90. I still have lots of noise from my flow master 40s. I liked them when I was younger still do for when you start the ole gal up but to drive for long periods sucks. You can get that material from lowes or the depot in lumber area. It's just an insulation. A good sound deadener is a SEM automotive foam. Or evercoat foam. I used it on my k10 wish I would've on the stang.
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65T5 wrote:
Thanks. Did you use 3M spray adhesive?
No, my car was already 'finished' when I decided to add the insulation. I just pulled the seats and carpet (including rear fold-down) and cut to fit. For the money I spent, I'm satisfied with the performance.
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65GT,
Please take this as a constructive comment: the stuff from Lowes and HD is for houses, please buy sound deadener designed for vehicles. There are lots of products out there and some are reasonably inexpensive. Besides, if you use an asphalt based product inside your Mustang, the inside of your Mustang will smell like asphalt in the heat of the summer, which is about nine months of the year in Houston.
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Hornman wrote:
65GT,
Please take this as a constructive comment: the stuff from Lowes and HD is for houses, please buy sound deadener designed for vehicles. There are lots of products out there and some are reasonably inexpensive. Besides, if you use an asphalt based product inside your Mustang, the inside of your Mustang will smell like asphalt in the heat of the summer, which is about nine months of the year in Houston.
Although I don't have first hand experience in this, I've read the same thing a number of times from people who state they do on a number of other forums - the home center stuff will make your car smell like asphalt.
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I always love the posts from those condemning peel and seal and similar, but have personally never tried it. As for the smell, most never smell anything, or if at all it out gasses quickly and never smells again.
I have original flowmasters with dumps and it's stupid loud, Loud enough to make my ears ring.
Over the past week i ripped out the old carpet, and covered the pans with lowes peel and seal, then added mass backed carpet.
The difference was night and day. I was hitting 80+ db at idle before, and now i hit 68-70 db, and that's without part of the rear pan covered and no seats, and with the thicker carpet
It quieted it down so much im in shock.
I spent $50. Do what you guys want, but it works.
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I did the majority of the floor with the Peel-n-Seal from Lowes, have never once smelled ashalt and it made a huge diffenece in the sound level inside, to be fair I did part of the floor earlier with Dyna-Mat and really can't tell the diffference between the two products, In my opinion they are so similar that I won't be spending my money on Dyna-mat, I am restoring another 70 FB now and will be doing the floor with the Peel-n-Seal too.
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We must be thinking of two different things from the home Improvment stores. The insulation I'm talking about it a heat and sound barrier with aluminum on both sides so asphalt at all. If you put a home insulation next to a car sound barrier such as Danamatt or what ever it is you will not see a difference. My buddy got some of the Danamatt from speedway I beleive ran out I showed him the stuff at the depot and it looks feels the same in every characteristic.
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Lil' Hoss wrote:
I did the majority of the floor with the Peel-n-Seal from Lowes, have never once smelled ashalt and it made a huge diffenece in the sound level inside, to be fair I did part of the floor earlier with Dyna-Mat and really can't tell the diffference between the two products, In my opinion they are so similar that I won't be spending my money on Dyna-mat, I am restoring another 70 FB now and will be doing the floor with the Peel-n-Seal too.
That's good to know - just one more question: Has the car been subject to something approaching a Texas summer heat, and if so, how did the peel and seal do with smell?
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I haven't done my Mustang yet, but I picked up a Fatmat kit from Amazon. Used it to do the cab of my 95 Lightning. Top notch stuff, had enough to do the floor, roof, and both doors with quite a bit left over for 200.00. I'm not sure it would be enough for pass compartment, roof and trunk on a 65-66 Mustang, but depending on how you use it it might be close.
I am definitely not disparaging what others have used, but I wanted no smell and was worried about some of the chemicals used in the non-automotive stuff. I also live in Tx and the truck is black so temp is definitely a concern. I installed it mid summer and leaving out in the direct sun only made it more pliable to work with and did not appear to affect it. I did have to pick it up with gloves though
Last edited by Raymond_B (2/08/2015 6:58 PM)
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Raymond_B wrote:
I haven't done my Mustang yet, but I picked up a Fatmat kit from Amazon. Used it to do the cab of my 95 Lightning. Top notch stuff, had enough to do the floor, roof, and both doors with quite a bit left over for 200.00. I'm not sure it would be enough for pass compartment, roof and trunk on a 65-66 Mustang, but depending on how you use it it might be close.
I am definitely not disparaging what others have used, but I wanted no smell and was worried about some of the chemicals used in the non-automotive stuff. I also live in Tx and the truck is black so temp is definitely a concern. I installed it mid summer and leaving out in the direct sun only made it more pliable to work with and did not appear to affect it. I did have to pick it up with gloves though
If you have to remove it to make a repair or weld something underneth, can it be fairly easily lifted up?
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Thanks all. Interesting talk. Sounds like Lowes may be ok if no petroleum base aspect. Will check it out and see if I can find the specs on the other products to compare. Thanks again.
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Consumer Economics Rule#1: you get what you pay for. There are very few exceptions to this rule. If a product is significently less expensive than a "similar" one, there is usually a good reason.
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Here is my long-term use report on that similar product from Lowe's. It is specified for roofing valleys. I think the adhesive probably works long enough in that application to get the nails in it.
If the surface is not 100% perfectly clean and painted, it will not adhere. The underside of my cowl was done and it all fell off within 6 months. The adhesive appears to have just evaporated as the black rubbery part that was so sticky when I installed it is smooth to the touch now.
I put it on the vertical surfaces behind the kickpanels. It is still adhering nicely as evidenced when I pulled the panels off yesterday after two years. The kickpanels themselves probably kept it pressed tight against the surface.
It does well on floors, as it has not fallen off the floor!
Bottom line... It is inexpensive but there are probably better products to use. Might be fine for floors if you don't mind doing it in 6" wide strips. But, if it does release, it could get water under it and hold it there until it can leak out through the rust holes.
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If you have to remove it to make a repair or weld something underneth, can it be fairly easily lifted up?
I made a few mistakes here and there when installing (especially the doors) and you can pull up with some effort. So yes I don't think it would be a problem to remove it from a spot and then clean before working in that area.
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I bought this stuff -
Everything I've read about using the peel 'n' seal asphalt based stuff says it will not stay stuck to vertical and overhead surfaces - period - dont' know that it would work better or worse otherwise but I agree with the 'use a product intended for the application' statement.
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I also meant to add the link to what I bought, 100 sq/ft for 199.00. It's the "Rattle Trap" series which is supposed to have better sound deadening, but is heavier@80 mil thick. In addition to the sound deadener be sure to pick up a good quality roller. I used a rubber roller, but if you can find one I believe a wooden roller would be better. That way you are sure to get good adhesion and eliminate any air pockets.
Last edited by Raymond_B (2/09/2015 9:47 PM)
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please read here, dampner materials reduce vibration. This place shows the steps to correctly block sound.
you dont need to use dampner material all over the place. When you get a idea of what noise is then you can block it correctly. Read the explainations of each step / process
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Lot of good information. Sounds like I just need Thermal and noise control for the roof. With the better products any issues with those glues up top?
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I used a combination of roll-in bedliner and two layers of dynomat on the floor and firewall. The doors have dynomat on the inner and outer skins. The roof has two layers of dynomat as well.
Other than the car having a very satisfying "thunk" when you close the doors, it is just as loud as any other first gen mustang I have ridden in. It was very disappointing. I can tell that the majority of the noise comes through the windshield and the trunk. I have started trying to isolate the trunk noise from the cabin as my next step.
Summary: Do it, the A/C and heat will be more effective, but it will be just as noisy.
BobN
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Thanks. After all it's only time and money right.
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I used Fatmat? or some such thing as well as the Dynomat and some Lizard skin? or what ever and it took a lot of time. Minor change. I spent much less time and fixed the fit of all the weatherstripping around the doors and windows and trunk which made a much better improvement.
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