Has the column slipped too far away from the wheel?  Needs to be pretty close for the contacts to make a solid connection, me thinks.  I've seen lots of switches/contacts that will pass voltage (Ohm meter) but not enough current to do any work.

When you get tired of messing with the stock setup shoot me an email and I'll draw you a quicki picture of how to make the horn setup better.

BB

Last edited by Bullet Bob (5/09/2015 4:35 PM)

As you've already established that the wiring from the steering wheel to the horn is good, check for voltage at the horn, between the horn wire and ground w/the horns disconnected.  You could either have a high resistance across the horn contacts that will not allow for proper current flow to activate the horn, or a complete 'open', that would indicate the contacts are not making up.
If you get voltage, then try it w/one horn and check the voltage again.  If you get one horn to operate, even slightly, then the horn contacts are not making up properly.
I suggest instlling a relay, use the horn contacts to activate the relay, and power the horns from a 12v source, I used the starter solenoid.

BobE wrote:

I suggest instlling a relay, use the horn contacts to activate the relay, and power the horns from a 12v source, I used the starter solenoid.

As BobE suggests, a horn relay is a very good mod.  However, IMO, if you go to a relay you should also modify the yellow (#460) wire from the headlight switch to the steering column.  This wire provides 12v to the horn switch (button) at all times.  If you cut that wire and ground the column end the horn button will now switch ground...not 12v.  Now you can switch a relay by applying ground with the button which requires very little current so the column-to-wheel spacing isn't so critical.  And if it ever shorts to ground inside the column or hub you will not run the risk of harness damage or headlight operation failure due to a tripped circuit breaker at the HL switch.

If you do this mod be sure to tape off the HL switch end of the yellow wire.

BB

Thanks for the pointers.  BB, I got your sketch for the relay mod a few weeks back, and that's the direction I was heading.  I was trying to get everything working right before putting the relay in.  Now I see that the relay mod can help fix the issue I am having.  (insufficient current flow)  I'll pull the wheel again, and paint the contacts to ensure physical contact is made, and then go from there, on the relay mod.

terry wrote:

BB I have my horn on a relay but it is wired into the circuit under the hood.  I just spliced into the wires tween the horns and the harness.  Can I still change the wiring?  maybe I will have to run a new wire out to the relay???  can you send me a copy of the diagram or post it on here

I assume you have the hot source for the horns coming from the solenoid or batt at the voltage regulator or something, Terry.  The 460 mod just allows the horn button to send a ground signal to the relay.  Right now you probably have one side of the relay coil grounded out where the relay is.  Remove that ground replace it with a jumper from the hot source right there at the relay.  Now all hot is under the hood and the circuit to the button is only used for ground.
I'll shoot you a diag if you want. In fact, I'll call after I grab a bite....about 8:30 your time.
BB
 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (5/10/2015 6:05 PM)

TimC wrote:

So, the contact on the inner ring behind the wheel is worn enough that it doesnt't reach the back of the wheel.  The column is as high as it will go, without rubbing.  Is it new switch time, or are there suggestions about how to add some conductive material to make the contact reach the wheel?

I have seen solder used, there's other tricks out there