JamesW wrote:

You can make an adjustable pedal rod to align it with your clutch pedal.

You can also buy an adjustable push rod from many Mustang vendors, like this one:

http://stevesmustangparts.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=16660

or this one:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=A21161+01&Category=Wheels+%26+Brakes&subCategory=Brake+Boosters+%26+Related&CatKey=EMUSTANG

Just check to see if the length and adjustment range will be right for your application before buying. You also may need to fab an 'up stop' to keep the brake pedal from moving back up enough to let the rod drop out of the back of the MC, which would be bad...

Last edited by McStang (4/03/2013 8:18 PM)

You should be using a 1" bore master cylinder that has NO residual pressure valves in it.  Make sure no brake tubing has high points in the routing, especially none higher than the fluid level in the MC bowl.

Mushy pedal can be from MC piston too small, loose wheel bearings, rotor runout, soft hoses, and a host of other things.

Rear Versailles calipers are notoriously problematic.  That was my main reason for designing brackets to install COBRA 94-04 calipers instead of the originals.  But you should be able to have a firm pedal if the MC bore is large enough.

I have three different master cylinders that would work for you.  Contact off the forum if interested.  IT is not my intention for the forum to be a sales tool.

One other thing on Versailles rear brakes that can cause a mushy pedal is the adjustment of the emergency brake.  Are you using the correct emergency brake cables. Levers and springs?  When you install new pads on a Versailles rear end, you have to manually adjust the pistons in the calipers by rotating them.  They thread in and out on the rod that is actuated by the emergency brake lever system.  If you do not adjust them so the pads are withing about 0.030" of contacting the rotors, there will be slop in the system and half of your master cylinder stroke will be used up just getting the pads TO the rotor and not clamping on it.  To make things worse, if you do not use the emergency brake often, as the pads wear down, that gap reappears.  By actuating the e-brake regularly, the internal system in the caliper repositions the piston as close to the rotor as it can get.  So, if you do not have the e-brake cables hooked up, you can expect to have a recurring problem.  Then, if everything is hooked up correctly and you use the e-brake regularly, the calipers will self-adjust.  But, unfortunately, they tend to overadjust and the pads drag, creating heat, turning the rotors blue and causing you to get terrible gas mileage.  All that said, they just are not very good brakes to have.  They were Ford's first-gen rear discs and I think they were flawed from day one.