I was proven wrong today.  It took about 30 minutes to install the new tie rods on the 07 GT convertible.  Since the ball joint boots were blown, I figured I would slap some MOOG ball joints on it.

First attemp was to use one of those big c-clamp gizmos to press out the ball joint.  After I took the ball joint loose from the spindle, I discovered the ball joint on-the-car press was about 1/2" too short of being able to get onto the joint.  Scrap that idea...

The only way to do it at this point was to remove the lower control arm.  Four simple bolts and it will be off.  Actually, just three since the ball joint is already off the spindle.  I got the two bolt off from the rear bushing, but the front pivot bolt required removal of the rack so the bolts could come out.  The rack is held on with two vertical bolts with 18mm nut size.  Neither nut would budge.  I use a Mapp gas torch to heat it.  I used a 30" MAC breaker bar with an impact socket on it, and a 36" piece of pipe slipped over the handle.  This was over 5 FEET of lever arm.  I pulled so hard, the MAC breaker bar was bowed about 6", maybe more.  The two nuts would not budge.  So, I gave up and bolte it back together.  Bummer to do all that work for no gain.  I need someone with a 3/4" drive impact wrench like they use on big trucks.  If they can just bust those two nuts loose, then I can remove the rack and get on with business.

This is the first time EVER that I can recall not being able to get something APART.

Here is a tip for those of you with S-197 Mustangs.  As they get older, the camber starts to give way and you get alot of negative camber with no way to adjust it.  There are several ways to remedy this.

First is to get a pair of Eibach camber bolts and replace the upper bolt on the spindle with one.  They have a cam profile on the bolt and will move the spindle to a more positive camber setting, up to about two degrees from the standard bolt.  That is the easiest method and will correct the camber issues on cars with stock suspensions.

Next is to take the upper strut mounts and remove the 4 nuts that holds them to the shock tower.  Jack the car up so the strut drops down where the 4 studs disappear.  Then rotate the upper strut mount 180 degrees for a FREE extra two degrees camber in the positive direction.  Then lower the car down and reinstall the nuts.  I figured this one out when I determined the center hole in that mount is offset.  Swapping the direction like that moves the top of the strut outward about 1/4".

Next is to slot the upper holes on the struts where the spindle bolts on.  I knew I should have done this before I installed the struts, but I had bought the Eibach bolts and figured it would not be necessary.  If I HAD done it, this would be very simple to correct the camber issues with a lowered car.

Next thing to do on mine will be to lower the upper strut mount with the nuts removed, tehn use a die grinder to elongate the mounting holes outward.  I did this on a 98 GT that I lowered and it worked perfect.  I much prefer dealing with the top of the strut as it is easy to get to the nuts to set the camber.

As a last resort, you can bay $300+ for a set of caster/camber plates that accomplish the same thing as slotting the holes in the shock tower.