TKOPerformance wrote:

Its nice to have it all done the first time the way you really want it.  On the other hand troubleshooting EFI on top of breaking in a new motor can be a lot depending on how it goes.  I know I'll swap to EFI at some point, but for now I'll build my 347 with a carb, get it dialed in, and then down the road do the EFI conversion.

On the wiring, I would rework what you've got, or start with a fresh repro harness and modify it.  That's what I've done and its fairly easy to add circuits as needed.  The Painless kits I've found to be anything but.  A lot of money for something that requires a lot of work on your part to fit it to the car. 

You make a good point about the break in coupled with troubleshooting EFI, I just figured easier to do it the first time whilst its all torn down, but maybe a carb might be easier in a few aspects, so I might just continue down that road. 

I remembered the name of the company, mid life harness in Fl said to rebuild many harnesses completely and do a great job for 1/4 the price. Maybe I can ask them about adding some wiring for A/C while they have it.
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Wiring for AC should be pretty easy.  How are you planning on controlling it?  Is it stock components or an aftermarket system? 

Sorry just saw this,  truthfully,  not sure yet probably an aftermarket system?

So skins like the rolling assembly has been put together and is ready to be picked up. He said he had tho double check the clearances and rod length. Still need all the components I talked about above sho i week have to start shopping.

So I am currently in a holding pattern with picking up my long block. Talked with the builder a few days ago and after getting the correct length rod checker, sounds like he was not comfortable with the clearances between the pushrod and cylinder heads. We ordered the AFR 165 heads. He called AFR and he said they were basically "no help", asked him if he has ever built a performance engine before? He stated it not really a "performance" engine but a street engine with performance capabilities, all they suggested was removing the valve guides and taking some pictures then send them to them at AFR...? No its all foreign to me but I thought he said they were within .010 but I could be wrong. Either way, he is now taking some steps backwards to remove the valve guides to check something or another. Should I have just ordered the Edlebrock heads like he initially wanted? I thought I did read somewhere at some point about this being an issue with AFR heads.
 

You're saying valve guides but are you intending to mean push rod guides?

Last edited by Jon Richard (7/29/2016 5:50 PM)

It is normal for the push rods to contact the guides, so long as that is the designed set up, which is what you have- but hardened push rods are required when running guides or you'll wear down the push rods where they ride in the guides in short order.

What I'm seeing in the pics you posted is a misalignment like your builder doesn't like how the guides are not centered with the through hole in the heads. I personally think it's as easy as modifying the guides or flat out replacing them with different ones that will make the rods take a straighter shot from the lifters to the rocker.

I've seen folks take the one piece style and cut/ re-weld them to fit, it's just a guide fudge it so it guides where it's supposed to.

Typically pushrod to guide plate clearance is 0.005", which is next to nothing.  That's why you run hardened pushrods.  There's going to be some contact in operation, but you don't want the pushrod grating down the guideplate slot all the time.  You should have enough adjustment to loosen the rocker studs and jockey the guideplate around to get that clearance.  If not you can always cut the guideplate in half, get each one right, then tack them back together.  But I wouldn't think you'd have to go that far on something so simple and mundane. 

Hey TKO, that seems to kinda be the consensus, after all they are there as a guide right?  We did but new pushrods and I am hopping they are hardened ones,  shouldn't all pushrods be hardened?

Bruce B, the builder did call AFR to ask about clearance and tolerances,  and I kinda got the jist that the were not much help as HE sounded a little ticked with them, they just asked if he "has ever built a high performance engine before", and requested that he pull the guides to take some pictures tho send to them. ...

Ah, so they're close to the hole in the head.  I'd just make sure they don't hit.  In the end, in the battle of steel vs. aluminum, hardened or not, steel always wins.  Make sure they are hardened though, they need to be when you run guideplates.  Most aftermarket pushrods are hardened, but its worth a check. 

I agree, for what you pay for AFRs that's BS having to do anything to them. 

There really isn't another option, and puling the heads a enlarging the pushrod holes is the right thing to do.  He's the builder and if that's what he feels needs to be done then that's the way to go. 

I've been following this thread off and on - has it been since Feb?  I have not said anything because you guys know a lot more about pushrods, guides, and holes than I.  Now that the decision is made I have one comment.  Good luck.  The push rods were designed to line with the rocker up thru the hole in the head.  You added guides and both guide and push rod hole now rub.  Your answer is to enlarge the hole .   To me that looks like the guides will push the rods out further putting a lateral force on the rocker arm push rod cup.  The guides may still rub some, but there is a chance that something untoward may happen with the push rods, like coming out of the rocker arm, rapid wear on the rod end, or bending the rod. where am I wrong?  What am I missing?

lowercasesteve wrote:

I've been following this thread off and on - has it been since Feb?  I have not said anything because you guys know a lot more about pushrods, guides, and holes than I.  Now that the decision is made I have one comment.  Good luck.  The push rods were designed to line with the rocker up thru the hole in the head.  You added guides and both guide and push rod hole now rub.  Your answer is to enlarge the hole .   To me that looks like the guides will push the rods out further putting a lateral force on the rocker arm push rod cup.  The guides may still rub some, but there is a chance that something untoward may happen with the push rods, like coming out of the rocker arm, rapid wear on the rod end, or bending the rod. where am I wrong?  What am I missing?

Well, I myself know even less about rods, holes, add other motor building linguistics here, that's why I decided to have one built.  It seemed like the best option from others as well as the builder himself,  so I went with it. He did not like the alignment/clearances, I asked if smaller rods were available and it sounded like 8in were the smallest for intake, so here we are and there is no going back now.