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Previous owner had really hammered on the shock towers. With the Hedman headers, it was not noticeable. Now am trying to fix all that stuff. I used my pictureframe tool I made (see earlier posts a while back) to mark the shocktowers so both trimmed out pieces would be in the same plane. Pics tell the rest. Those runs in the last couple of pictures were in the build-primer and got sanded out before painting.
Two down... Two to go...
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Looks Great! Better than the hammer Art...LOL
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Looks like OEM
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What are your thoughts on welding the shock tower seams? Several blogs and sites suggest this but am not sure of the pros and cons.
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I should do the same...mine are so close to my Heddmans I can't put my finger between them.
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MustangSteve wrote:
Previous owner had really hammered on the shock towers. With the Hedman headers, it was not noticeable. Now am trying to fix all that stuff. I used my pictureframe tool I made (see earlier posts a while back) to mark the shocktowers so both trimmed out pieces would be in the same plane. Pics tell the rest. Those runs in the last couple of pictures were in the build-primer and got sanded out before painting.
Two down... Two to go...
MS...Nice deaugmentation....jj
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When you change something like that and it ends up looking like it came from the factory that way you know you did a very good job. Nice work Mike
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I jsut wish I had the time to clean up the entire compartment, but that involves removing everything to do it right. I hate to compromise, but this is just engine compartment paint that winds up looking bad after it is driven for another 20 years anyway. It will still look better than most...
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MustangSteve wrote:
I jsut wish I had the time to clean up the entire compartment, but that involves removing everything to do it right. I hate to compromise, but this is just engine compartment paint that winds up looking bad after it is driven for another 20 years anyway. It will still look better than most...
noted
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Today, I got the assenger side done, and both shock towers are now painted. Almost time to put the engine in for the final time.
I installed the Global West upper control arms today. Has anyone else installed them? The car sits alot higher now. I am cutting 1 full coil off the progressive motorsport springs. If you draw a straight line on the side of the control arm from the centerline of the pivot shaft to the mounting surface of the ball joint, the spring perch sits 1" higher on the GW arms than it does on the stockers. Everything else being equal, that will raise the car more than 1". I am trying to get a really low stance now that I have clearance under the car.
I am lloking for others who have installed GW control arms and any info on what you used and final ride height.
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Looks like you have plenty of room for that Coyote MS...LOL
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Tonie wrote:
Looks good,this is what a buddy of mine did
Tonie
I like this! Also looking good in Mustang Steve's garage! I'm hoping I'll have time to do a thorough job cleaning up the engine compartment when I swap my motor soon but might also have to wait for the next swap as I'd like to be able to take the car to the Norcal SAAC event at Thunderhill in October. Running out of time and the 289 is far too tired to make the trip.
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Not second guessing you Steve, but why not go the Mustang II route if you had gone to this extreme? Is this something you had considered? That seems like it would solve figment issues as well as rack & pinion upgrades in one fell swoop. I'd like to try that Mustang II swap someday. Anyone here ever try it?
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The MII front suspension requires removal of all the structure from the front of the car. They just weld to the existing framerails, which are just sheetmetal, and that is not very strong. My car already had a TCP power rack in it. I would not have trimmed the bumps off the shock towers if the previous owner of the car had not destroyed them with a hammer trying to install some ill-fitting headers many years ago.
My goal for this rebuild is to make the car have no excuses. In other words, if it is on the car, it will be done right and have a purpose. Removing the humps got rid of some carnage plus makes it so I can install my headers without having to move the engine around. I can actually install the engine with the headers on it if I want to .
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no thats not the one but i like it! i'm trying to remember what the beginning/started pictures looked like but my memmory isn't too good etheir. i just remember that it looked like it was going to turn out really interesting and nice! mybe i saved some of the pictures, i'll need to check my old computer....
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Now see, this is a good examplw of why I don't need to learn how to weld.
This would just become another something I'd just have to do.
Now, cos I do not weld, and no 351 block, it aint gotta be done.
Tubo
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MS. I like what you and Toni did. Looks great.
I have one question. The bumps you removed look to be part of the chassis strength. Bumps do increase the strength of the sheet metal. By removing them and replacing them with flat pieces, don't you reduce the strength? I would think Ford had a reason for the bumps, (although that is not necessarily true).
That's why I am not too excited about the MII conversion. Besides, it makes the engine bay too bare like some of the over done Chevy engine bays I have seen.
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I'm just amazed that someone went back to 2013 posts and renewed this, although it was nice looking at it again.
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