Hello , vintage air has great sheet detailed instructions , and sure you will enjoy . These are step by step with no issue at all .  I found useful try to fix before tighten .  Pay attention on pipe  to torque them at correct force.
Some are hidden  so take your time to study which is the best way to do it.
i set vintage air in my 66 alone ,  first time in my life so .... you can do it  !

Pull the instrument cluster, if you haven't already. I find pulling the steering wheel off helps for access too.

When you start on the wiring, make sure to disconnect the battery if you are using the switch for a keyed hot. I found out last night that my switch has a post that's hot with the key off or in accessory position. It goes off when turned to run position. I slipped an insulated spade connector with some heat shrink for an extension over it for protection.

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I was not happy with the block off plate they supply for the fresh air vent on the passenger side. I didn't want to run self taping screws through the bottom of the cowl!!! Yes you can seal them and they shouldn't leak......wasn't doing it!!  I cut a circle from sheet metal slightly larger than the opening and bent a lip on it with a hole in the center. I used a 1/4" x 20 x 3" toggle bolt in the center as a means of securing. With a slight fold of the sheet metal, it passed through the hole and settled on top of the opening. A piece of flat bar spanning the bottom with a nut to secure and a bead of sealer around the inside of the cap and I was set. I don't have a picture to post.

For the bolt that Steve welded, I used a retaining washer to hold it in the bracket, may have been included in the kit. To tighten, I taped a box end wrench over the bolt head inside of the car and finish up under the hood by myself. The tape holds it on the bolt. If it starts turning, it will hit something and stop.

The defroster ducts had nothing to keep stuff from falling down into the unit. I got a rain gutter guard from Home Depot and cut to fit inside the defroster vent, then screwed in place.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Home-Products-Metal-Black-Lock-in-Gutter-Guard-6360/205207064

Getting the controls back into the dash was a pain for me with a factory AC and retaining the registers. It took some maneuvering to get the controls up in the dash, then connect the duct to the register with it being half in and half out of the dash.

Last night, I programed the controls on mine and noticed for the first time that the heat will come out of the AC registers. I don't think there is anything pointed directly at the floor.

 

Great post 

Alessandro wrote:

Bolted to Floor wrote:

I also left the fresh vent on driver side in place.

I have closed the fresh vent .... but is not the best solution .  leave  it working as is . 
 i have some smog odor, return from exaust and i think is for that one i have close

Regarding your smog odor, check your rear deck lid seal.  If that seal can leak, exhaust might be drawn in through the rear deck when you're driving.
 

yes, I am slow but as long as I get this finished by Tuesday i'm good. OK, how in the world did anyone get to those mounting holes against the firewall? AND, have them in the correct place? I've read the instructions one is 3 1/2" the other 3" . AND it's got to set level left to right and fore and aft. did anyone make a template? news flash, wouldn't it be useful that the manufacture did that?

would they be refering to dimples in the insulation or on the metal of the fire wall. they say measure over from the holes where the heater core goes thru the fire wall, which does not put you in the center of the dimple of the insulation

val fulesday wrote:

yes, I am slow but as long as I get this finished by Tuesday i'm good. OK, how in the world did anyone get to those mounting holes against the firewall? AND, have them in the correct place? I've read the instructions one is 3 1/2" the other 3" . AND it's got to set level left to right and fore and aft. did anyone make a template? news flash, wouldn't it be useful that the manufacture did that?

  
for my mustang 66 the instructions was full of template , for any kind of hole or cut  . check website and look for it or give a call , they are useful and sharp

Another option if running an electric fan is to simply add another relay connected to the compressor clutch wire.  This way when the compressor clutch is trigger the fan automatically comes on.  My fan control system uses ground switching, which is extremely easy as if any one point of control goes to ground the fan comes on.  It grounds if the thermostatic switch is engaged, if I trigger the override toggle switch, or if the compressor clutch is engaged. 

couldn't figure out why the 67 mustang wouldn't take any more Freon, found that the red valve was slightly open. then I hear that the can could have exploded, personally never hear that before, so could it have?