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I recently installed the MS Cobra rear brake conversion and now looking to complete the emergency brake installation.
Has anyone completed and documented a similar install on a 65-66 car?
I reviewed the brake cable install posted by jkordzi, which looks very nice using the later brakes and cables, but I am looking specifically for the cobra install using the 2000 cables recommended by MS.
Any pointers are appreciated.
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This will be my next project, so I’m interested in the responses.
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I have some info on this.
Cut the new cable housings to fit between the calipers and the brackets in the drive tunnel, routing above the mufflers and using the original clamps to hold them up under the rear seat area.
Overlap the new cable wire with the original front cable about 6” and apply two 1/8” cable clamps. Tractor Supply has stainless clamps for about $1.99.
If you have a 65, it is better to replace the two front cables and their front spreader bar with the 66 front horseshoe and a single long cable.
If you don’t like the overlap/clamp system, you can build a single wire cable that goes from one caliper to the front, through the hoseshoe and back to the other caliper.
Adjust tension so it is “just tight” when the underdash handle is at rest and the caliper levers are at rest. The brakes will be applied as soon as the caliper levers start to move, so be sure they are at rest with the ebrake not applied.
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I do like the idea of a single cable and use of the 66-style front connector. I'd be interested in opinions on the best way to cut the new housing and still retain the housing ends so that the housing will mount correctly at the caliper and tunnel mount points. Maybe cut the housing halfway between the two ends and reconnect with an outer metal tube, or cut the ferrule on one end and then re-crimp to attach to the shortened housing? Then build a completely new cable that has a new swedge end at each caliper?
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On the aftermarket cables, you just slip the ferrule off of one end of the housing, trim the housing, and then slide it back together. The housing in under compression when installed so it cannot slip out. One smart FYI-er used shrink sleeves over the housing and ends to finish it out.
With OEM cables, it is a little more difficult to remove/replace the ferrules, but it can be done. This is a horse and buggy cable system, not rocket science. Although, I guess there are some that can imagine it being rocket science and attempt to make it more complicated than it is.
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MS wrote:
I have some info on this.
Cut the new cable housings to fit between the calipers and the brackets in the drive tunnel, routing above the mufflers and using the original clamps to hold them up under the rear seat area.
Overlap the new cable wire with the original front cable about 6” and apply two 1/8” cable clamps. Tractor Supply has stainless clamps for about $1.99.
If you have a 65, it is better to replace the two front cables and their front spreader bar with the 66 front horseshoe and a single long cable.
If you don’t like the overlap/clamp system, you can build a single wire cable that goes from one caliper to the front, through the hoseshoe and back to the other caliper.
Adjust tension so it is “just tight” when the underdash handle is at rest and the caliper levers are at rest. The brakes will be applied as soon as the caliper levers start to move, so be sure they are at rest with the ebrake not applied.
I did like Steve mentioned and with his cable. It was on my '65 Fastback and all worked like a dream. LOL
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Thx to all for the thoughts.
I need more Wheaties to pull off the ends from my OEM cable, cause they're swaged on there 'Ford Tough'.
Just trying to glean wisdom from others who have boldly gone where no man has gone before and created a better mousetrap.
How's that for mixed metaphors.
I'll add some pics later as the finished product materializes.
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On the same subject but different... I'm in the process of installing 2017 GT rear calipers and rotors on my 66 coupe using the newly developed MS brackets and Cobra E cables. I purchased the Cobra cables from Mustang Steve because the 2017 cables as far as I know are only available from Ford and are , for me , cost prohibitive. The only problem I ran in to , but have resolved, is the end of the cable where it attaches to the caliper. On the 2017 caliper the cable fitting is an elongated eye that fits over the e brake lever on the caliper. I resolved the problem by fabbing a fitting that attaches to the existing cable end and fits over the caliper lever.
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MS wrote:
On the aftermarket cables, you just slip the ferrule off of one end of the housing, trim the housing, and then slide it back together. The housing in under compression when installed so it cannot slip out. One smart FYI-er used shrink sleeves over the housing and ends to finish it out.
With OEM cables, it is a little more difficult to remove/replace the ferrules, but it can be done. This is a horse and buggy cable system, not rocket science. Although, I guess there are some that can imagine it being rocket science and attempt to make it more complicated than it is.
Gee. Way back when that's what I did on my 40 Ford.
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Does anyone have any pictures of the disc brake emergency brake cables routing from the mounting brackets aft?
Thanks
Last edited by Heem (1/04/2019 7:46 PM)
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I don't have pics but I simply used the original mounting points so my cables use the stock routing.
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Do a search for emergency brake in the tech section.... Info is there along with pics
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