I made a heat shield for mine similar to the ones on my Harley Sportster. I cut a section of exhaust pipe length wise and welded tabs to the inside of it so it attaches to the header pipe with hose clamps. It creates an air gap between the pipe and the cable.

I used DEI 2” wide exhaust wrap with 2 layers.

Wrapped lower 18” from bell housing to bracket mounted on shock tower. With shorter cable I had to route between 6 & 7.  Had air gap along entire length.

Looking on MS site, I see new clutch cables are much longer to go around oil filter and along pan rail.

Even new cable has note of not with long tube headers.

I will have to try BillyC suggestion with new cable.

I’m guessing the slow cruise speed through town with 200-300 cars didn’t help either.

Bright side, wasn’t stuck in bumper to bumper traffic in 100 degree weather with a tornado chasing me.

Made it home after disconnecting cable and gently speed shifting.  I just zip tied clutch arm to cable mounting hole so parts wouldn’t end up destroying more stuff.  Was traveling with a group of friends, which was nice too.

Thanks JKB for suggestions.

Appreciate it.

Vkt-66 I will look into that option as well.

May end up with a combination of these suggestions.

I used the non reflective header wrap, two layers only.
snaked between 6 & 7.
Clamped to shock tower.
Obviously not enough after slow speed driving.
Thanks for pictures too.

I had purchased the booster/cable clutch conversion second hand used...but never installed.
This kit was one of the earlier kits with the stockish length cable.
I was not aware of longer cable.
Don’t regret this conversion at all.
Definitely well made product too.
This requires less effort than my stock ‘92 clutch setup.

FYI for anyone considering these headers with T5 cable conversion.

The Hooker 6901 long tubes have two tubes next to block to clear the Z-bar.
Right smack in the way for cable clutch entrance.
If you’re a talented welder, you could fix it easily.
They’re very well built but hang a little low if your car is slammed to the ground.

I understand your thinking.
But sometimes you get what you can afford at the time.

Gotta love the squirrels that make their winter nest in the muffler.
Bright side...Definitely better than the air cleaner or in the car.

Thanks for the wonderful suggestions.
May eventually change out headers in future.

Last edited by Nos681 (8/13/2019 2:53 PM)

I will definitely do that. Thanks guys!

The short stock length cable pushed through the plastic end by bell housing.  I will try to reinforce that as well.   Heat melted the header wrap to exterior on lower 16-18” and appears inside melted the sheath to the cable.  Ordered the longer length from MS and will route near oil pan...I tried that route initially but cable wasn’t quit long enough.

Thanks for tip DC

I spent the whole weekend coming up with a way to install the new cable without incurring damage again with the Hooker 6901 long tube headers.

These were designed to clear the z-bar linkage originally.

I got an idea!

Use the open space for the clutch cable.

I offset cable mount and extended clutch arm to match so there wouldn’t be a side pull on plastic mount base.

Between heat, lack of heat barriers and side pull on cable base is how first cable failed.

Didn’t want to repeat.

I have the ‘65 mounts on my car.
Cable travels from transmission...over lower engine compartment brace...under ‘65 shock tower engine bracket...around oil filter...under export brace...firewall.
Might be able to have a better route with ‘66 shock tower engine bracket and motor mount.
I did insulate the major heat sources adjacent on engine side and below cable.
Also installed reflective heat wrap on cable too.

Drove it yesterday and was able to get initial adjustments made before calling it a day.
Even with relocation, I still have plenty of adjustment at firewall adjuster.
WOW...this shifts so much nicer than before.

Thanks for help guys!  I appreciate it.
Will try to add pictures when I get better cellular service.

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Last edited by Nos681 (8/26/2019 5:59 PM)