Maybe..........butt you will be limited on cam lift...of course the springs and retainers will need to be changed. I think the chambers are pretty small so "maybe" the heads won't need milling....p heads sometimes require special headers to bolt up
   If it was a choice of these heads and the heads you already have.......maybe I would just keep what I got.
6sal6

6sally6 wrote:

Maybe..........butt you will be limited on cam lift...of course the springs and retainers will need to be changed. I think the chambers are pretty small so "maybe" the heads won't need milling....p heads sometimes require special headers to bolt up
   If it was a choice of these heads and the heads you already have.......maybe I would just keep what I got.
6sal6

I have no heads.. sold my E7TEs

TKOPerformance wrote:

Then I'd go after the low cost Edelbrocks, or one of the other lower buck aluminum heads, though their country of origin might cause friction with the locals...

I almost want to give them a try.. and be the Guinea pig for  those heads , as I don’t think anyone runs them yet to tell us what they think.

6s6 anyone you know run those heads(skip white performance ) ? You got experience with them?

Last edited by Gaba (12/22/2019 12:54 PM)

The RHS heads were good, but for the price you could get the better Edelbrock heads, which I'm sure would have shown better numbers. 

On the cheap aluminum heads it seems like you need to be careful.  In the end you get what you pay for.  Offshore castings can be suspect in terms of the metallurgy and machining.  It also sounds like most of the cheap heads use cheap hardware.  That's not the place to skimp, because all that has to happen is a lock or valve fail and your engine just became a grenade.  Some guys are saying use them, but swap out the hardware.  I don't know.  For me, I'd rather not play Russian Roulette with my engine. 

Gaba wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Then I'd go after the low cost Edelbrocks, or one of the other lower buck aluminum heads, though their country of origin might cause friction with the locals...

I almost want to give them a try.. and be the Guinea pig for  those heads , as I don’t think anyone runs them yet to tell us what they think.

6s6 anyone you know run those heads(skip white performance ) ? You got experience with them?

I was lucky enough to get my AFR's when they were in the $1,200 range, but I don't think you can go wrong with the Edelbrocks.

Even some well known USA brands have their heads cast in China. Edelbrock has their own aluminum casting facility in CA. In fact Edelbrock does casting for some competitors. Yes Flotek us cast in China but I'm pretty sure machined in the USA with decent parts. Flotek heads were never intended to be race heads just decent budget Street heads. On the E Street heads the reason why they're listed as flat tappet simply has to do with the valve springs. It's very, very common to swap valve springs no matter what. Generally for any cam swap other then a mild RV type, you typically install valve springs to match the cam. Depending on the cam you use the stock springs in the E Street heads. You can always call Edelbrock, they may be able to upgrade the springs for you and ship directly to you.

On my GT40P, that's a roller cam motor and I swapped valve springs. I think the valve springs, valve seals and shims came to about $200.

I've only bought an alternator from Skip White butt.........I have read......a lot of other guys are pleased.
Did you read what all they do to their heads? Sounds pretty impressive to me.
I doubt they would spend so much time and ink explaining their procedure to be all lies and a complete scam.  Give it a read and decide for Gaba.  Give them a call, they are pretty straight up on the phone too. FOR THE $$$  I think....you could do a lot worse.
Keep in mind...you are not going to be abusing and 'working hard' this stuff. Its just a street engine. Its true a steady diet of street work can have failures butt if UR are looking for bullet-proof..go with race proven stuff like AFR /Twist Blow. Or stay with FoMoCo.
Give Skip a call..........
Also call Howard Cams....Delta Cams...some of the cam grinders you might be considering and ask them about what heads. I KNOW they will trash some of the Chinese stuff butt they might recommend some heads that work with 'their' great grinds!!
Do your homework.
6sal6

Absence of dyno tests? The base rule for magazines is that they publish only good reviews. Good reviews tend to bring in advertising.

Rudi wrote:

For the  money you can't go wrong with Edelbrock, free shipping from Summit

Rudi which ones ? Like I was saying none of the roller ones are under 1700 ++for the pair ...  at that point i have other options like AFR

And the cheaper ones are 1000 for the flat tapper  plus need a valve / spring job

Last edited by Gaba (12/23/2019 7:03 PM)

I originally put a flat cam in my engine when I built it. It was a mistake at the time but I didn't know it. The oil companies quit putting DZZP additive in the oil and I found out that it would ruin the cam without it. That's not a real problem cause you can still get a few brands of oil with it. Butt--- while we were on the last bash road trip to Detroit I needed oil and none was to be had. While again that wasn't a real problem, it was concerning. I did find a bottle of the additive and was able to use that. The point is, it was a big hassle to deal with. I am in the process of changing over to the roller cam. I'm also looking forward to better gas millage and better performance. It's more money but in the end, I think it will be way worth it. I'm going with the factory type conversion verses the link type.

Gaba, from your posts, it sounds like you know the car’s intended purpose, date nights, joy ride with the kids, and Bash Trips and enough vacuum or power brakes.
 
You may want to get a better idea of how you want to build the motor before the budget is set in the spread sheet. For heads and connecting rods both, weigh the cost of new versus the cost to recondition. The new stuff is likely more expensive than reconditioning, but it’s a new part that should perform better. Heads more so than the rods.  
 
 
For the cheap aluminum heads, let someone else be the Guinea pig with their engine and a set of inexpensive no name heads. I’m not knocking them cause they are Chinese, Scat is Chinese and carries a good reputation. Cheap products are that for a reason, if they have issues, you could surpass name brand parts price making the cheap stuff usable. Stick with a known brand.
 
You say you have some parts already. Are the pistons standard or for an over bore? Are the bearings standard, .010 under, or .020 under? What condition is the crank? Are the clearances good for the supplied bearings?
 
If you are going through the effort to build an engine, find a good machine shop or find several in the area. Someone needs to inspect the parts you have. Ask for a rate sheet for charges for comparison purposes. See if they will give you a realistic timeline of how long they would have your parts.
 
You want more power? Have you thought about a stroker crank to make a 331?
 
You already have a roller block, go with a roller cam.
 
Is the timing chain set adjustable to allow for degreeing the cam?
 
You say you’re not a spender…... don’t be afraid to buy quality parts at the best prices you can find.

I'm putting my engine together right now and just happen to be thinking that maybe the flat cam I have will fit in your engine. If so I have no use for it if you want it, but I wouldn't as per my previous post.

Gaba wrote:

Rudi wrote:

For the  money you can't go wrong with Edelbrock, free shipping from Summit

Rudi which ones ? Like I was saying none of the roller ones are under 1700 ++for the pair ... at that point i have other options like AFR

And the cheaper ones are 1000 for the flat tapper plus need a valve / spring job

Hmmm, seems prices have gone up a bit since I got mine!
AAHH the good old days.