I ain't touching this one.

I use similar in the grease gun.
Didn’t know this was available.

SURFSIDE OR BUST😎

What ever brand you get make sure it is NLGI #2, it is the recommended wheel bearing specification.

Bearing Bob wrote:

Bentworker wrote:

Bearings hate contamination and improper preload.
I’d say getting the preload right is more important than the brand of grease.

What is this preload of which you speak?

I'm fairly certain it isn't the 25 lb. ft. you were using, Bob.  I just checked mine....again...for the bash trip.  They had just a tiny bit of movement which is how they always ended up after my adjusting process over the years.  This time I got the book out and followed the "Professional" instructions.  Tighten to 25 lb. ft. while turning the hub.  Back off 1/2 turn.  Re-tighten to 18-25 INCH POUNDS while turning the hub.  Ended up with exactly the same slight movement it had when I started...Just like your's did, Bob after we put it back together last June. 

BB-1

From the 67 shop manual. Step 7 is of utmost importance.

Last edited by RV6 (3/11/2020 3:20 PM)

DC wrote:

My race car duty is extreme I agree, but my go to before was the Kendall. 
Two or three races and all the grease had exited the scene. Changed to the Redline and amazing difference. The temps on racing brakes are really high and they heat up the hubs as well I regularly have rotors glowing bright orange in full sun. Yes it is extreme, but I only use the Redline now because I know how long it will really be till it gets changed again! Time will tell.

Wow, that is next level stuff.  The AWD cars are brutal on bearings and grease because those front wheels are called on to do everything (brake, accelerate, and turn).  But now I'm recalling a conversation we had from a few years back about the hub bearings in your SN95 car I believe, and its making more sense as to why you were having short bearing life. 
 

Bearing Bob wrote:

Bentworker wrote:

Bearings hate contamination and improper preload.
I’d say getting the preload right is more important than the brand of grease.

What is this preload of which you speak? Hope you were able to save the spindle. I had a bearing on a boat trailer I bought have a bearing seize up. I had a bear of a time getting it off and cleaning up the spindle.

I have been using Amsoil all purpose for over 30 years now and wont use anything other. Got sold on it back in the day when I went off roading in a 2 wheel drive cornbinder with a 350. Had no dust caps and never had a wheel bearing fail me in years of driving with 12 wides and 10" wheels on it. Found that the sand and water would not penetrate into the spindle. from then on its been Amsoil and dust caps on everything. My cars are all Amsoil except the trucks 700R because I was in a hurry that day.