GR2 is stock performance, they have a new name and colour now Excel g or something like that, black and not silver anymore.
I have the next step up, the KYB gas adjusts, they are firm but not harsh.
There are big buck shocks out there, Bilstein, Koni and a bunch of others but unless you are autocrossing or serious canyon carving they are a waste, on street driven cars, IMO.
Don’t forget your choice should work in conjunction with the spring rates  on your vehicle, if your springs are baffed no shock can remedy that.

Given the spottiness of Scott Drake stuff I wouldn't put SD branded shocks on my car if someone gave them to me.

I've run KYB Gas Adjust shocks for over 20 years.  They are good match for the springs I have in the car.  I think bang for the buck they are hard to beat. 

Brilliant Folks, I was Leaning toward the KYB Gas Adjusts.....I had put G2's on my 69 (sold it) and no complaints, but I never did know a comparison......the car went from Shot everything suspension to all new 1"lowering stuff and those G2's.........Funny thing is, I didnt realize how much "TIGHTER" my 69 handled until now buying this 68 Fully Restored, but with OEM style equipment.....Im honestly SHOCKED. I can not, and afraid to drive it as Aggressively. (not taking turns like a racer but definitely wasnt afraid to go into it with some attitude).  This thing is All Straight Line and literally nothing else

Sally thanks for the Rear Leaf tip, I dont know what that is but I will LIKELY be getting them!

thanks MS, as always....

Bilsteins would be Ideal, but a little out of my budget......As for the rear leafs, theyre brand new 3yrs ago.....strange they would need replacing............

MS wrote:

Replace rear springs now. You will do it eventually anyway after wasting time/effort on bandaids.

 
I would have to agree with Steve about spring replacement.
Ford used different springs depending on engine, options, and year.

That's a good article! Over my 40 years of road racing, I finally learned a lot of that! From making big and multiple adjustments at once and adjusting myself right off of the road to one thing at a time and taking time to learn to drive that to the best before changing something else.

DC wrote:

My rule of thumb for suspension mods is get it all to work with the lowest spring rate you can! Always makes a more enjoyable and faster car if you are turning both ways!

Which is why any suspension work needs to start by stiffening the chassis so the springs can work on keeping the wheels in contact with the road instead of twisting the chassis.  If there's one glaring problem with every mustang ever built is the lack of a full frame rail front to back.  There's a front frame rail, a rear frame rail, and a sheet metal floor pan in the middle.  Fix that and you can cut your spring rates considerably without hurting handling (in fact it will improve because the car will now be predictable). 

TKOPerformance wrote:

My rule of thumb for suspension mods is get it all to work with the lowest spring rate you can! stiffening the chassis so the springs can work on keeping the wheels in contact with the road instead of twisting the chassis.  If there's one glaring problem with every mustang ever built is the lack of a full frame rail front to back.  There's a front frame rail, a rear frame rail, and a sheet metal floor pan in the middle.  Fix that and you can cut your spring rates considerably without hurting handling (in fact it will improve because the car will now be predictable). 

 
This is why I installed subframe connectors, convertible inner rockers, one piece seat riser, and 6 point roll bar.

Question:  Have you done the Shelby/Arning drop on the front?  If not, it will probably help with the nose dive.  I know it really helped my '68 reduce body roll.

If the car has been lowered without changing the position of the upper control arm, then I'm guessing it was lowered by using shorter springs then.  Anyway, the Shelby/Arning drop lowers the connecting point of the upper control arm which changes the front end geometry.  This change in geometry is intended to reduce body roll and improve the tire to road contact surface throughout the front suspension travel.  I think this covers it in a nutshell.  Watch the following video starting at about time index 4:15
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVugDqaUW9M

With shocks you get what you pay for. I splurged for Bilstein Sports from Street or Track. Cheap no, worth every penny, absolutely!

Rufus68 wrote:

Oh, and if you do the Shelby drop, then I'd probably go back to standard height springs.

this is what I was Afraid of.....I just paid Good Money for a fully restored car, not redoing all this and spending all sorts of money.....I just converted to a T5 cause in my opinion if the car is 3 or 4spd, its just nonsense to Not!

anyhow, I have seen 1" lift blocks for the front springs perches, not a good idea?