| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 2 Jump to
Offline
"Triton" brought this up in a previous post about sound deadening, but I thought it would be better in a post of its own.
Installing a steel rear seat / trunk divider ?
Screw-in, Bolt-in, or Weld -in ?
Make a difference ?
I did this to a 63 Falcon I mini-tubbed, but never got the opportunity to drive. It appeared to make a big difference moving the body shell around the shop.
It seems to make sense that welding in a 16-18 gauge panel wheel well to wheel well has to structurally really strengthen the shell.
It would also make it easier to add the sound deadening between the cabin and trunk.
Offline
I ended up replacing the cardboard divider in my 66 coupe with don't remember 14, 16, or 18 gage steel I did bolt it in place, one problem is if you lock you keys in the trunk forget it. I also fabricated a raised steel pan that went over the fuel tank in the trunk just bolted it with the tank mounting bolts to the frame, I'm sure it all helped stiffen up body, it also add a few more lbs. so I guess it might help out when driving in the snow, O wait I don't drive that one in the snow.
Offline
Welding vs. bolting or riveting only makes a difference depending on how fully its welded or how many fasteners are used. Consider that airplanes are riveted together. The theory is that each rivet isn't terribly strong, but when there are 200 holding a panel on they are strong in aggregate.
Personally I wouldn't weld it in, just in case there was ever a reason to remove it. If you bolted or riveted it in with the fasteners spaced every 3" it would be as strong as being spot welded at the same interval. Its going to be a lot of fasteners though. From a speed standpoint rivets would be best. If you bolt it I would either weld the nuts to one side or create a solution to be able to do it by yourself.
Offline
I wonder if it would be easier and or stronger to weld the divider in and then make a removable access panel in the middle that bolts in/out.
I wonder if this is one of those things that will make a big difference in rigidity or only a slight improvement? It seems like it would make a big difference. Maybe not as much in my coupe?
Offline
Just a reminder.
Ensure you still have access to upper shock mount if still in use.
That can be easily overlooked.
Offline
You could make a panel based on the design of the part that's used in the convertibles. Those are welded in.
Last edited by John Ha (4/14/2020 9:46 AM)
Offline
kardad wrote:
I wonder if it would be easier and or stronger to weld the divider in and then make a removable access panel in the middle that bolts in/out.
I wonder if this is one of those things that will make a big difference in rigidity or only a slight improvement? It seems like it would make a big difference. Maybe not as much in my coupe?
A flat piece of sheetmetal isn't going to do a ton for rigidity. It's better than nothing, but since its not perfectly vertical when acted upon by shear loading its not a strong as is it were perfectly vertical so the whole panel was in effect perpendicular to the load being applied. Now, if you added some ribbing to it it could stiffen things up a lot more.
Welding in a ribbed frame with an access panel in the center held in my 1/4 turn Dzus fasteners would be trick, and strong.
Offline
That is such a nice car, I would be hesitant doing any welding anywhere on it.
There is way too much blurbing out there about rear seat dividers, if it were my car, (wish it was), I'd just drive the wheels off it.
For heavens sake it's not a Pinto thats going to explode into an blazing inferno if rear ended, never heard of a Mustang doing that, if it has it's got to be rare.
If it is just soundproofing you want just put some under the rear seat.
In the end it's your car, go ahead and do what you want to it, just sayin.
Offline
Rudi wrote:
For heavens sake it's not a Pinto thats going to explode into an blazing inferno if rear ended, never heard of a Mustang doing that, if it has it's got to be rare.
When I first got my Mustang in 78, a group of 4 surveyors came to my house for a lengthy interview about my Mustang and Mustangs in general. As the interview progressed they wanted to scare me out of my car and have me help them sue Ford about the Mustang blowing up the same as the Pinto. They showed me a bunch of pictures of wrecked and burned out Mustangs. In the end the case was thrown out because the percentage of Mustangs vs other brands of cars was the same. They do have the same problem as the Pinto did, you just have to hit it a little harder because the gas tank has the potential to come out of the mount when hit in the rear.
Offline
I have the sheet metal divider bolted into mine and covered with sound deadening.
I think you would get more body stiffening out of a set of subframe connectors.
Offline
If I'm rear ended hard enough to set the car on fire the person who hit me better pray that I'm trapped in the wreck and burn to death.
And you'll get a ton more stiffening out of subframe connectors compared to a piece of sheetmetal running sideways across the car. Case in point, my WRX is a wagon and has no divider between the passenger compartment and the "trunk". Yet its still stiffer than a Mustang, because it has full length frame rails.
Online!
Being a devout "naturalist/tree huger" I used a piece of 1/2" plywood instead of the card board divider. Didn't have a welder....did have a chunk of plywood.
My thinking is...if Tom-the-terd rams me in the rear so hard it ruptures the gas tank and the contents are spewed all into the cabin and drenches me with 93 octane...and then it explodes!!! I don't think I would survive any way. That's A LOT of force. If it doesn't rupture the tank just crushes it..I'd still be dead butt........if not... maybe I could climb out the window or something to safety. (You don't REALLY think either of the doors would open do you?!)
Safe than a 'donorcycle' I guess.......butt-knot much!!
6sal6
Offline
Offline
I have a piece of MDF with audio equipment on it as my divider.
It’s removable too.
Offline
Offline
Offline
Next I would have too get some custom upholstery work done, but that would keep my 13 year old's in their seat.
Last night I started thinking about mini-tubbs, This all started just fixing a quarter window that wasn't working smooth. I have to get this thing back together fast. I told my three son's to hide my grinder and cut-off wheels. The WYAITM is my biggest enemy.
Offline
Kardad....
My quarter window repairs involved installing new carpet, EFI 5.0 & T5. 🤣
Glad you got your car back!😁
Last edited by Nos681 (4/15/2020 7:26 AM)
Offline
TKOPerformance wrote:
Where's that setup from Bob? I love that it picks up the rear upper shock mounts.
It's a home brew idea Tom. Since the cradle for the rear upper arms mount there, fingered a little support wouldn't hurt.
Offline
Found this one a few years back. Looks to fit in the trunk area not behind the seat.
Offline
- - and also how bout what appears to the latch for the driver door cross bar, neato!
Offline
I've been told by a few people that adding the panel behind the seat makes a big improvement if the stiffness of the chassis. I the see the frame ties making an improvement in a different direction that the filler panel would.
If you have a roll bar then I'm not to sure one would need the filler panel.
I'm still up in the air about which way I will go with my build. or now I am leaning towards the filler panel behind the seat. NPD sells them and I have to make a trip there some time in the near future.
Offline
Bearing Bob wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
Where's that setup from Bob? I love that it picks up the rear upper shock mounts.
It's a home brew idea Tom. Since the cradle for the rear upper arms mount there, fingered a little support wouldn't hurt.
Did you fab it yourself?
Offline
TKOPerformance wrote:
Did you fab it yourself?
Yep. All but the cradle anyway. Should've made it too as the coilover brackets were not symmetrical and had to be moved.
Offline
6sally6 wrote:
My thinking is...if Tom-the-terd rams me in the rear so hard it ruptures the gas tank and the contents are spewed all into the cabin and drenches me with 93 octane...and then it explodes!!!6sal6
I am still laughing my head off at this one Sal! I think with your open headers and your fondness of "giving it some" would deter any "Tom-the terd" from getting too close to the "Sal-Mobile".
1 2 Jump to
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |