Daze wrote:

There is one more issue to consider.  Behind this engine is a z-spec T5 rated originally at 330 foot pounds.  When Glen built it I know he shimmied all the bearing tight and he installed a billet counter gear stabilizer and those two things push the torque rating up near 400 foot pounds.  I wasn't too worried about it with the stock cam and 351 because according to the digital dyno I just barley reach 400 foot pounds and the digital dyno tends to be a little on the high side.  Reality is probably closer to 350 at the flywheel.  But if I upgrade the cam I am getting it much closer to MAX and the Galaxie is a heavy car so it may not be worth the risk.  I won't be running slicks or dumping the clutch but I still drive hard and if the 351 gets any stronger I think I may be pushing my luck.  It's easy to think, more, bigger, and better and I know I would be happier with more torque but is it worth the extra $ to put the transmission at risk?

Still a street car on street tires though.  Don't bang 3rd.  You won't have enough traction in 1st and 2nd to break it.  Almost every T5 I repaired due to failure had a blown 3rd gear.  Its where traction and strength intersect and strength looses.  G-Force gears can solve that problem though. 

Or just keep the trans as is and exercise a little self-restraint on the right pedal. 😀

I'm under the impression this is a roller ready 351W block?  If so why not just use ford roller lifters and cam?  If the springs only have three hours of run time I would not be afraid to run them as long as they were within spec of what's needed for the replacemant cam.  And given its a used high mileage engine I would go as cheap as possible with the cam and lifter options.  The factory ford parts last a long time and you're not building an all out drag engine.  I'm sure you could find a nice ford roller cam for cheap if you shop around.

I'd build the engine you want, drive it and not worry about it. I've seen a lot of factory T-5s subjected to a lot of abuse and not break and it sounds like yours has already been upgraded somewhat by Glen.  If you do blow it up in a few years, then you can buy the Astro or G-Force gears and rebuild it then, but I would suspect it will be fine...assuming you don't put on slicks, drop the clutch, etc.

Chaplin wrote:

I'd build the engine you want, drive it and not worry about it. I've seen a lot of factory T-5s subjected to a lot of abuse and not break and it sounds like yours has already been upgraded somewhat by Glen. If you do blow it up in a few years, then you can buy the Astro or G-Force gears and rebuild it then, but I would suspect it will be fine...assuming you don't put on slicks, drop the clutch, etc.

You'll be fine under those conditions in 1st and 2nd gears.  The issue will be 3rd.  You won't have enough grunt to break the tires loose in 3rd on a hard shift, and that's when a T5 will go bang. 

My guess is you are already sandbagging our of the hole, and maybe babying the 1-2 shift.  So yeah, that's going to get worse with an engine making a bunch more torque.  The saying at the strip is "run it out the back door", and that's what the more powerful engine is going to buy you.  Acceleration through 1st and 2nd isn't going to be any better, but 3rd and 4th, passing on the highway, etc. will be significantly improved.  Whether that's appealing or not is a matter of opinion.  I will say this though, if the current combination works and you're happy with it; it begs the question why swap the engine at all?  I've seen a lot of good combinations ruined over the years in the quest for just a little bit more. 

One last thought....(not sure IF you have tried this)....why not retard the cam timing  since it already has good torque numbers. Retarding it will/should give some more top end power( where you may want it)
Besides......it would make an interesting write up since you have the engine on a run in stand anyway. Not sure IF any power changes would show up on  just a stand (and no dyno) but still a good lesson in how to degree the cam!!
You could still invest in some hi lift rockers (ala Corky) and gain a little more uummppphhhh!
6sal6

Last edited by 6sally6 (7/27/2020 4:41 PM)

You are moving the installed centerline of the cam around.  Let's say the cam has a 108 degree intake centerline.  Advancing the cam by say 4 degrees makes it act as though it has a 104 degree intake centerline.  Retarding does the opposite (e.g. 4 degrees retarded acts like it has a 112 degree intake centerline).  Basically it moves the torque peak up or down.  The rule of thumb is that 2 degrees equals 200RPM.  If you "need" to move the cam by more than 4 degrees every am grinder will say you should just get another cam. 

On a Ford you typically do this by using a multi position crank sprocket.  You need a degree wheel, dial indicator, etc. to check and properly adjust it. 

Tubo wrote:

Lunati cam 20350611 iz good, got one in Miss May, But the Lunati T-shirt is the best!!

Tubo

 
LOL, skull and bump sticks

For me a 10% increase is a base line, below,not worth the money and effort
, above that it boils down to how much more torque at what cost.
I don’t care about HP, it’s twisting power that moves my universe.

My $.02.  My father has built a TON of Ford small blocks, from restoration to circle track, street and drag racing.  I may have learned a thing or 2 from him.  Also since I have a stroked 351w (making well over 500hp and 500 tq) and a G-Force T5, I can speak to the subject.  Once we experienced the joys of custom grind cam profiles, there was no going back to the mass produced bump sticks.  You build the cam for the components of not only the engine but the entire drive train and you will be happy!  It doesn't cost any more money to do this either.   On the subject of the T5.  I have the G-Force version that is good for 700+ hp in my coupe.  I have beaten the tar out of that tranny with zero issues.  It does have straight cut gears in 1-2-3 so they are noisy, but 4th and 5th are quiet as a church mouse. 


 

Daze wrote:

The software doesn't give me anything under 2000 RPMs
 

Daze if you have a chart that goes to 11k RPM, I figure 2k is low.
Hehheh, and as you say thats as low as it goes. Have fun with it Buddy.

Corky